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I have a 83' 4x4 Ranger and I noticed from the last snow storm that when I turn sharp, without the transfer case engaged in 4H but hubs locked, the front end would buck and bind really bad. So yesterday I played with the front axle a bit, raised up the front end and noticed if I grab the front drive shaft with the hubs locked both front wheels will turn the same direction. I know thats not good the diff is completely stock. So to verify I ran over to the Brono and did the same test except one turned the opposite like I remembered it was supposed to. I went back to the Ranger with one wheel to the ground and spun the other one by hand. It turned, but took a lot of force on my end.
Any ideas what is broke in the diff? I see some auto places sell seal and bearing kits but nothing for the internals.
How expensive are parts to replace broken gears/pin if thats what it is?
THANX
If you were on a high traction surface that is normal. It is not caused by the front end not differentiating but rather the transfer case not differentiating. Your front tires are traveling a longer distance than the rears.
You are also doing the wrong test on your front end in my opinion. Put the truck in gear and jack up both front tires. Spin one front tire (with the hubs locked of course) and see if the other one spins the opposite direction. It is not uncommon for them to both turn the same way when you spin the driveshaft. That's what they do every time you drive it in 4X4.
It is possible that you have a front limited slip. Some of the early Rangers and BII's had them as an option.
You can get just about anything you need to repair it if it is broke.
It is a Dana 28. You can get ring and pinions, bearing kits, carriers and spider gear kits.
When I noticed the excess hop, it was in 2wd when I made the turn. I realize too it does have a natural hop/bind when the hubs are locked. But, its gotten really bad compared to the last few years I've had it. If I'm turning to park I usually drop it back to 2wd so I can turn a little easier, but now reguardless of 2 or 4wd with the hubs locked it'll almost kill the motor if I'm inching while the wheels are turned because it binds and fights so bad up front. If I'm going straight everything's fine, or even turning a little. I checked the trans. case & all the joint over, there still old but I found nothing in any of them that would cause something like this. I wonder if its something as simple as a worn bearing inside allowing a shaft or gear inside to shift just enough to make it bind real bad. Either way I'll probably pull it tomorrow to take a look.
How does one know if the internals are packed with a limited slip?
I'm familliar with the gears, operation, mechanics, etc I'm just new to tearing into a diff.
If I had limited slip in that Dana, is there a good test to make sure its working properly or prove that the diff is OK
See if you have an ID tag on the axle, write the numbers/letters down, and put it on this or the drivetrain forum and someone will be able to tell you what it is.
have you ever consider that your tires rub? i have that problem, when the tires rub the radius arm the tire rides up and makes the truck hop and skid...it feels like there is a spool but its an open diff..just the tires rubbing. its a possibility, the more aggresive tread the more pronounced the affect of the tire hop also.
OK here's the #'s on the tag
3.73 E37A ADE(B)
610171-6 LS
I know 3.73 is the gearing. Does LS mean "Limited Slip"
If thats the case it would explain my wheel spinning findings, but does not explain the binding. Is the LSD trash or could it still be a spider gear or bearing?
If the ranger is the same as some of the other axle tags, 3 73 means open, where 3L73 would be limited slip. Anyway, with the binding, I have no idea other than actually taking stuff apart and checking it out. Good Luck!
It should be a limited slip. That is different than the later tags.
They would have a 3L73 on the tag, which would indicate 3.73 with limited slip.
While there could be problems with the front end, it may be just as simple as worn out fluid. Try changing the fluid and putting the Ford limited slip additive in. It may take a little driving in four wheel drive and doing figure 8's to get it to work. It would be simplier to try than removing the drop in.
I may try that for now, especially since it looks like it is a LSD that might be under used or old lube. I only lock the hubs maybe a few time during winter and its allways on concrete.
Any suggestions on draining it? If I remember there is no drain plug. I think they want you to suck it out, but when I looked at the plug the diff. came right up to the hole with hardly any room to get a hose in there ???
You could remove the dif cover to drain it. You could also inspect the inerts then. As for determining if it's a LS or not, do what rrmike said. Try turning one wheel with the truck in gear. If they spin opposite directions easily, it's open. If you can't turn just one wheel, it's probably a LS or something is bound up inside.