stock pistons are dished so yes, and yes.

 

well rules are changed...limit is 496. whats std bore and 4.140 crank put me at? i figured 495....is that right?

 

yes your math is right. BUT that leaves NO room for overbore. I would stick with a stock crank and bore .030 personally.

 

but if my block is good for std bore...wouldnt that be the way too go?

 

And what if you need to bore it later down teh road? Now your stuck with a crank that you can't use.

and what if they check you and their cid tester shows a stroker bordering on too big?

Or they change the rules next year to 472cid?


If you know you can come up with another standard bore block that will work if needed and you have your heart set on a stroker then go for it.

 

well my thing is i want a good strong motor, get as much cubes out of it as i can, but not really bore it much over .030. my thing is if theres a way i can get same results as putting a 4.140 crank in for little or same money, im all ears. like ive always been told, no replacement for displacement.....

 

Save the money on crank, and put it towards better heads/cam/intake/exhaust.

Going bigger cubes without improving breathing will not net you any more power. You'll shift the power-band down lower in the RPM range, and the engine will sign off early.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Exactly what he said!! The extra cubes are going to be useless if you don't have the top end to support it. What are your rules regarding heads, iron only?? If so, I would use the crank that you have and put more money into your cam, heads and intake. You are going to gain more by focusing more on those areas.

Last question with building a puller, do you really know what you are getting yourself into??!!.....LMAO!!

 

ha yes, i have to agree with you.. wwhat am i getting myself in to haha.

I have attached a copy of the new rules we must follow... for my class. must be cast so im sticking with the heads ive got. theyve already got 7/16 studs installed in them, and have otherwise never been touched, no porting polishing valve grinds or even milling. and with no tunnel ram style intakes allowed... what would you suggest?? a weiand stealth with an 850 double pumper?
6500 Street Altered Stock Gas 4x4

Engine And Drive train

1.Block and heads must be cast iron. No ex514 or A460 Series heads allowed. No prostock style heads allowed. Stock configurated heads only. Aluminum heads allowed only if vehicle is factory equipped.
2.Aluminum intakes and single 4 barrel carbs permitted
3.Carb must be 4150 flange and body. No 4500 series dominators, predators, sv1 or similar carbs, no superchargers, sheet metal or tunnel ram intakes permitted. No Fuel Injection allowed unless factory equipped. Single carbs ONLY.
4.Headers are permitted. Must exit down and back.
5.Engine must be same make as truck and in stock location.
6.496 Cu. In. Limit
7.Transmission and transfer case must be OEM 1 ton or less. (No aftermarket internals)
8.Front and rear axle must be 1 ton or less.



Truck


1.Flatbeds allowed, Must be factory built or heavier.
2.No gutting of cab. Must have dash and factory sheet metal. May run only drivers seat.
3.Bed must have factory floor (may be heavier) and bedsides



Chassis


1.Factory truck frame 1 ton or less required with coil or leaf springs. Must have a minimum of 5 working rear leaf springs or factory coil spring setup if so equipped.
2.Blocked suspension is permitted. No Solid suspension allowed.
3.Traction bars are permitted.



Hitch


1.Must be a Reese style hitch and pull off rear of truck. No part of hitch may be fastened above rear wheels or be attached to rear differential in any way. Hitch may only fasten at rear of frame and may not extend more than 2 inches forward of rear spring shackles.
2.Hook point must extend past end of frame rails and be a minimum of 42 inches from centerline of rear axle.
3.22 Inch hitch height.
4.Must have 3 ¾ inch hole or one that will accept the hook



Weight


1.Hanging weight permitted. Furthest point of weight must not extend more than 60 inches from center of front axle.



Tires


1.Must be a street legal DOT approved tire
2.Max size 33” or equivalent.
3.No cut or sharpened tires permitted
4.Single tires only, no duals



Safety


1.No nitrous allowed or other pressurized fuels—1st time offense DQ, 2nd Offense gone for 1 year
2.Pump Gas or Racing Gas ONLY (limited). No nitro, alcohol or oxygenated fuels allowed.
3.Drive shaft loops, U joint shrouds, kill switches (ignition and fuel pump), blow proof bell housings, trans blankets, and fire extinguishers HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!!!!



Ruling of the officials is final. Any loss of parts is DQ, With the exception of breakage in the driveline


Protest rule: Fee to have engine pumped is $250


Any truck is eligible for inspection anytime throughout an event and or year as per decision of the officials.



1-15-12

 

Intake and carb are going to depend on what you do to the rest of the engine. You have plenty of room (rulewise) to build a really healthy engine. Just depends on how much you want to spend How does everyone else run in your class?? If you can build a 'mild' engine and still kick some a$$, I would do that.

Here is a video of some trucks in our club. The first truck (green 2wd) is some friend's of mine's truck. They run a Victor intake (not sure on carb??), Dove heads, Dove block and offset ground 429 truck crank. The Screamin Bohemian truck is another friend of mine's. He runs a 950 (4150 base) Quick Fuel Carb, Victor Intake, Dove heads, Dove block and factory stroke 460 crank. The Wood is my truck, I run a 1095 King Demon (4500 flange), Victor intake, DOOE-R heads, Dove block and custom ground cast crank. My point is that for the rules that you have, you could build a really strong engine depending on how far you want to go. I think all three of these trucks run pretty hard for what they are.

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What are your plans for drivetrain?? You can have all the power in the world, but without a solid drivetrain, you won't make it down the track.

Not to take away from this site, but here is another site where you can get alot of information regarding all aspects of a pulling truck.

Reddog's Pullin Truck Forum

 

2.Pump Gas or Racing Gas ONLY (limited). No nitro, alcohol or oxygenated fuels allowed.

They may need to reevaluate this one as almost all pump gas contains ethanol to some extent and is considered oxygenated fuel.

 

^^^^ you do provide a prettty good point. and The Freak, my green truck i have now, i run a 408 with a NP435, divorced 203 60 rear 44HD front, and its been a great truck for me. i hang about 600lbs out front and thats about it ( steel flatbed isnt exactly weight distribution friendly ) and my ladder bars i built are bullet proof. i like that truck cuz i can pull it, but have no fear of running it down the road (which is does alot of). this truck at this point in time is AS IT WAS FROM factory... 400m, c6, married 205, 60's front and rear. i have another 435 sitting here but im not sure, should i swap them out, or go for a stout C6 build?? if this was an all out pulling truck, id swap for the 435 no doubt, but id like to keep it still "streeetable" so thats why im not going for the all out pro street class... well that and the cost of it all too.

 

Yeah I started out that way in the mud drags too. Was building a super stock class truck that I could run on the street etc, ended up with a promod 900+hp Ranger running on 112 octane race gas and cut boggers and spending $15k on the motor.

 

ha talk about getting the ball rolling. sounds like it just kinda snowballed on ya.ha but i dont want anything quite that extravagent

 

If you decide to stick with the C6, you are going to have to put some fairly deep gears in the diffs (5.13-5.38) to get your final ratio close to if you were running a 435 (with a 205 x-case). Also, alot of guys do not like the auto's because they seem to rob HP from the engine. I'm sure you could build a bad *** C-6 that would work good with the setup, but that is just more money invested.

Also, when you are building it, I woudl get rid of the 60 rear. Once you start making more power (and putting it to the track), the 60 rear axles and R&P for that matter will not hold up. 10.25-10.50 Sterlings are good, GM 14 bolts are good. I guess it just depends on what you can get your hands on.