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I have an 82 F-250 with 1 nineteen gallon tank.can i add the second rear tank out of a 89 F-150.I think all i need to do is add the valves and crossover pipes.
I don't know if that late model tank will work. It has a electric pump made into it, and another poster(I think steve83) said somewhere in the late 80's they changed the dash guages, so the fuel sender may not work with your fuel guage. I bet if you start looking for an earlier tank from a truck that had a carb, you will not find one that is not rusted. You may also have a problem finding a used set-up where the original switching valve works correctly. I believe you could get a new tank pretty cheap. I wonder how much a manual switching valve from a trucking company would cost? You could mount it where it stuck through the floorboard, near the rear driver's door opening.
I paid about $175 for a switching valve from ford for my 83 F350. That was from the dealer and in Alaska so you may find it cheaper in the lower 48. New tanks for my truck were about $150 apiece out of JC Whitney and I can't remember how much the plastic ones were. I think a little more. There's more wiring than you think for one of these dual tank set ups so I would stick with something simple if I were going to do it. I think Dave had a good idea about the manual valve.
what if i put a "T" in the hose running from the fuel pump on the motor to the tanks and put one in one tank and one in the other will it draw from each tank evenly. so the guage will just show one tank going down real slow.
Theoretically, it should draw from whichever tank has more, which would mean it would reach empty on both at the same time. But depending on EXACTLY how you rout the lines and where the T is, you could end up with one tank emptying itself thru the other's vent or filler cap if you parked on a hill. That's why it's just NOT done that way.
I'd either go with the parts made for dual tanks, or just live with the single. The extra wiring is for the gauge - remember you'll want to know how much is in the new tank. Check the Haynes wiring diagram.
FYI You can't use the unpowered switching valve from an '84-90 EFI because it operates from the pressure of the in-tank pump, and you don't have one.
I posted a question about dual tanks last month - what a learning experience! I'm not sure I'd want to add one knowing how complicated the setup is on my motorhome.
On my 1981 E-350, it has an electric fuel pump in each tank. The selector switch also routes return fuel to the proper tank from an inline valve which functions as both a pressure regulator and "hot" fuel return to reduce the possibility of vapor lock. I bought a Chiltons manual last week which does not cover this system at all - everything I learned first - hand or on this thread.
I suppose you could get by without this valve assembly, but it might be lurking on a truck in the junkyard if you are going that route for parts.
My Dually had THREE tanks, the usual front 19gallon, an aftermarker rear that holds 40gallons, the 3rd tank was outboard of the left frame rail, just in front of the rear wheels & holds another 20 gallons. The filler neck for it was in the wheel arch.
That 3rd tank is sittting outside my garage now as I used to get bored stood at the gaspump for 20 minutes fillling the damn truck up. Was also pretty hard to stand there while 7 or 8 people stopped, filled there cars on the other side of the pump & then drove off while I'm STILL stood twiddling my thumbs..... LOL!
Originally posted by kohlerjd110 how would parking on a hill empty one tank thruogh a vent
With nothing but a T between them, fuel could flow back & forth. If you parked on a hill that positioned the bottom of the higher tank above the vent port or the filler neck of the lower tank, the fuel in the high tank would leak out of the low tank. That's why OE dual systems don't allow fuel to move from one tank to another.
You could put check valves inline and cure that problem, but I'm not sure if the mechanical pump will pull fuel through them. If you used the electric pumps in the tanks it wouldn't be a problem.
Just make sure the springs in the check valve are not to heavy for the pump to open them up easily.
why dont you just use one of the little electric switches? I have an '84 with dual tanks, the switch went bad on mine, it cost less than $10 if i remeber. All it is is two inlet nipples for the rubber tude, and one outlet. Ont gas line comes from each tank, and one out to the fuel pump. Its got one electric wire that switches between the two. That could take care of getting the fuel there, i only have one gas gauge that reads whichever one i am running on. Even if you didnt figure out the gauges, you could just run on the one that doesnt have a guage, when it runs out, switch to the one that does read. Just an idea.
Eric
We where talking about adding gas tanks a few months ago on here, and there was a guy into boats. He said on a boat, they have extra tanks, and they are hooked to a transfer pump. When the main tank goes dry, they just turn on the transfer pump and it fills the main tank back up. I guess you could take the filler neck off, and solder a fitting on it. And you might be able to use the fuel injection pump in the spare tank as the transfer pump. Then a line would go from the filler neck to the spare tank. I have reservations about this set-up, mainly because I see somebody filling the main tank with the reserve tank, and the main tank not being able to take it all, so it runs out on the ground. It would get rid of switching valves and fuel guage hook up problems though.