There are two different methods of timing these trucks, and the numbers depend on which process you use. Have a look at this thread from the last couple days.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ic-timing.html

 

My timing is a little advanced. I didn't like how the engine was running when the meter told me it was at 8.5 BTDC. It seemed a little rich and not burning the fuel completely. I advanced it a degree or two and now it burns very cleanly. My meter may have been throwing off bad numbers, too because it was acting up before I set the timing the last time.

 

Now I'm going to be adjusting mine without the benefit of proper meters, as I don't have them handy. What should I be looking for? Smoke under heavy load meaning it needs to be advanced?
I've read that one page, but it doesn't seem to say anything about adjusting it by eye and ear.
I'm guessing what I'll do is retard it a little until, load the engine down, check, repeat until it smokes and then advance it a bit?

What I do know now is that the only thing that bothers me with where it is right now is that it has a "knocking"/"ticking" noise, which is worse under /light/ load at higher RPMs. If the engine is loaded down(i.e. accelerating, or crusing at highway speeds), I don't notice it nearly as much. I thought it was due to a failing injector, but replacing the injectors doesn't seem to have changed it at all, so...

 

Setting timing by ear is pretty much guess work. You should see a little smoke under hard acceleration but not more than a haze. When cold, it should sound like a PowerStroke 7.3 but when warmed up, the rattle should be a bit less loud.

If you are getting a knocking or ticking sound, it could be a valve or rod issue. I have a diesel rattle sound when driving that could be mistaken as a rod problem in a gasser but it is really just the sound of the Diesel engine. If it sounds like a chugging coming from the intake, it is either a valve not seating or a bad injector. Just because the injectors are new doesn't at any rate mean they are all good. I had a bad injector and it sounded like there was a chugging coming from the intake.

 

So...
20111224_001.mp4 - YouTube (uploading currently, figure it'll be up within an hour) Make a short video of my truck idling, before I tuned it. This is what I've been talking about this entire time.

Now, I've adjusted the timing a bit, and we'll see if it's better/worse soon, but...

Also, note my hacked-together switch bank in the video. :P From left to right, we have:
Windshield wipers on/off
Windshield wipers high/low

Manual starter button
Main power/ignition relay

Glowplug Override
Manual high-idle switch

 

Not sure wtf that video is. It is all corrupt looking. It looks like there might be a Chevy and a roll of toilet paper on the hood. No audio, either. YouTube FUBAR I guess. Try reposting it.

 

Hm, fixed. Looks like I uploaded the wrong video amongst other things.
----
Here's an "after" video:
20111225 001 - YouTube
And a couple of pictures.
Under the hood:

Just a better look at what's in the video

Inside the cab:

Note:
1. custom metal plate on the left, partially hidden behind the steering wheel: That's my new mount-plate; I've got a little toggle switch for my new fuel-tank switch, a push-button for the windshield-washer motor, and the standard switch for the lights(without the ****)

2. Wires on the top of the dashboard: All stuff to replace various functionality that failed or didn't work well enough, and that was the most logical place to run the wires. :P

3. Switches on the dash, in the middle of the truck: As explained before, those are, from left to right: Windshield-wipers on/off, Windshield-wipers high/low, Starter override(so I can run the starter with the clutch out), main on/off control for my main relay which I use as a kill-switch, Glow-plug override, and my high idle switch(Because locking it on or off is nice).

4. Lack of radio: Who needs one!

5. Device under where radio was: Cheap chinese amplifier, works nicely for allowing me to drive my truck speakers from my phone, and with better quality than the old radio, too.

6. Switch on gearshift column: GearVendors Overdrive switch(Note: without the computer or any safety stuff; there is nothing preventing me from running in overdrive at 15 MPH. I do intend to add a couple of relays in there to disable it automatically if I ever put the truck in 4WD or reverse).

7. Lack of carpeting: Because noise-buffering is for the weak!
(Nah. Actually it's because it was moldy and I haven't gotten new yet)

 

Just a note. The gear vendor is shifted by fluid pressure. The pump turned internally by a gear and is not supposed to shift until the pressure is high enough. Around 25 mph and up should be fine.

The US gear overdrive is better in that sense as it shifted electronically. You could start out in overdrive with no damage to the unit. It also mounted between the trans and transfer case so no problem in 4x4 either. I'm not sure they even make it anymore.

 

hey your wiring is like Joes truck.
i think she sounds a little on the retarded side.too much like a gasser.
it's hard to time by ear in person though,let alone over the net.if i was to guess though,id guess it's retarded.
the "rattle" your hearing at idle,that goes away when revved.......that's not a failing injector.
that's the result of very high compression with the fuel igniting just by pressure alone,no spark.
and im guessing you don't have enough of this rattle yet.
im not encouraging you to advance the ip without a meter.if you do,use caution (but don't over fear the rattle .)
could just be the mic on the camera doesn't pic up the highs so well either.so be careful.
she's sounding good overall.good job.

 

The engine sounds OK but a bit on the retarded side. Move the IP just a hair more to the passenger side and you should hear a little more rattle. I don't hear a bad injector in the video so I'm not sure if that was originally the case.

As for the wiring, only God can help you at this point.

 

macc like the wireing lol friggin sweet!!! as far as your truck after a tune up it sounds great!!!

 

Interesting.
From personal experience, I've found that it indeed does require pressure to be built up; it'll engage at 15mpg without issues, but only if you've been driving for a few seconds.
Immediately engaging it after starting will have it clunk in after a few seconds.

On top of that, once it's engaged, I've never had it disengage on me with the solenoid on, even when stopping and starting again, so it doesn't seem to cause much in the way of issues for me.

That being said, these days I don't typically need it except in 4th or 5th, so...

I suspect you're right; I took a drive with it and it seemed to have less power and was less responsive than before, so I just advanced it a bit. We'll see how it runs at highway speeds tomorrow when I take it in to work.

 

So... Yesterday, I was going to replace my oil filter(and oil), and while preparing for it, I noticed that I was leaking coolant from a spot on the water pump.
Today, I yanked the pump(and everything in front of it), and it appeared intact, so I stuck a new gasket on it which appears to have solved the leak problem.
However.. In the process of cleaning it, I cleaned the outside somewhat too. There was quite a buildup of carbonized oil, as if a slow leak had been there for a long, long time.
Anyway, I took a ten mile run after getting things back together, and found this:

I'm seeing drips of /new/ oil on it. Where it's coming from I can't tell, but it /appears/ to be coming from the left bolt holding the break-pump bracket in place... which is impossible, considering that's a blind hole into the waterpump casting.

Any ideas, guys?

 

Do you get a pinging out of the pipe with the shake? Dose it rattle real loud when cold?

 

Ideal timing is 5* at 1400rpm with the cold advance unhooked