Cab Mount Removel
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Cab Mount Removel
I was wonder what the best way was to get the cab mounts off the chassis?
I'm trying not to ruin them because they are in great condition but would like to paint around them.
I'm trying not to ruin them because they are in great condition but would like to paint around them.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 604
Likes: 4
From: Antioch, CA
Yeah if I remember right I had to cut the mount and then reuse the top and bottom metal pieces. Theyre press sleeved together so theres no way to take them apart without cutting.I would replace them with polyurethane bushings, they dont compress like the rubber. I recently replaced all my rubber suspension and cab bushings with polyurethane and its 100% better.
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From: Mississippi
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
Replacements are available but expensive, the retainers are around $25.00 each. The way I removed mine doesn't work for everyone.
Get a 7/16"-14 bolt about 5"-6" long. Screw the bolt into the mount from overhead. Take a BIG hammer and hit the bolt. If you're lucky, the lower retainer will break loose and separate from the mount. After that the mount just falls apart.
Get a 7/16"-14 bolt about 5"-6" long. Screw the bolt into the mount from overhead. Take a BIG hammer and hit the bolt. If you're lucky, the lower retainer will break loose and separate from the mount. After that the mount just falls apart.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Wrights community
I hate to steal this thread, but I will since it saves me from starting a new one. I only needed the driver side cab mount and both floor pans. I know how to do the floor pans, but can someone please explain the whole cab mount removal process? I know I gotta lift the cab off the frame, but do I have some bolts to loosen? And I didn't have the money to get all new mounting hardware and bushings, do I need to wait or can I reuse the old stuff till I can afford better? I am already planning on putting in new mounting hardware and bushings in the future anyways.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Mississippi
The rear mounts are behind the seat, there are 2 grommets you remove to expose the heads of the bolts. You need to loosen these while someone holds the "nut" on the bottom. The bolts will come out easily enough IIRC but the 2 halves of the retainers interlock with each others and mushroom and they can be difficult to separate. Lots of penetrating oil will help as well as threading a bolt into them and hitting with a hammer (as Mike illustrated). I used a long punch as well to strike the lip of the bottom retainer. You will need to jack the cab up to slide the rubber bushings out once the keepers are removed. The front mounts I found easier to replace by jacking the front corner up and removing the entire bracket from the frame and then replace the rubber bushings that way. I loosened the steering coupler before I raised the cab. It might help you to look at a catalog or a factory parts blowup to see what you are dealing with if you arent sure. Search the forum, this is well covered and some have made their own keepers instead of using the factory hardware.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Mississippi
No, I bought them from LMC. If you care to read about it, do the search, I came across the home made ones several times when I was researching cab mount replacement.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 331
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From: Courtenay, BC, Canada
I hate to steal this thread, but I will since it saves me from starting a new one. I only needed the driver side cab mount and both floor pans. I know how to do the floor pans, but can someone please explain the whole cab mount removal process? I know I gotta lift the cab off the frame, but do I have some bolts to loosen? And I didn't have the money to get all new mounting hardware and bushings, do I need to wait or can I reuse the old stuff till I can afford better? I am already planning on putting in new mounting hardware and bushings in the future anyways.
This looks like a pretty good explanation.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,647
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From: Halifx Pa
I replaced my rear passenger side. It was a royal battle, and the thing was completely destroyed in the process. It was the original from 1977, so I was expecting it to be a battle. I got a complete replacement from LMCTRUCK.COM it was a perfect fit.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
This will make some of you cringe but After taking the bolts out, I threaded the bolt in through the bottom and clamped a pair of vice grips on as tight as possible. I then proceeded to beat the hell out of the thing with a 4lb sledge. I have done this ob my truck and several other in The junk yard; it works you just have to put your *** into it.
If you need extra bolts, take them out of another truck.
Mounts and the hardware are super cheap at the junkyard. 2wds use the same mounts/hardware and seem to generally be in better shape.
After 10 yrs my vice grips still work great; it pays to buy the good ****.
If you need extra bolts, take them out of another truck.
Mounts and the hardware are super cheap at the junkyard. 2wds use the same mounts/hardware and seem to generally be in better shape.
After 10 yrs my vice grips still work great; it pays to buy the good ****.