hello, i was wondering if anyone has ever use the rust removal process of electrolysis. I have a 56 f100, with a 223 i6. had my engine cleaned up in the summer by a machine shop,but due to a budget and Nursing school i don't have the extra cash to have the rest of my parts cleaned up professionally (intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc.). I read about this electrolysis process and was wondering if anybody has had any luck with it or horror stories. thanks for your help

taylor90

 

Been using it for many years, mostly on antique tractor partrs. Works well on truck stuff, too. There is enough stuff on the web to keep you busy reading for at least a year so I am not going into the mechanics of the process. The size of the item you can clean is limited by your imagination. I use a kiddy wading pool for large items like tractor wheels. Some folks build a wooden frame and use heavy poly sheeting to make a container. Use a good strong solution and it will remove paint as well as rust. Good luck

 

You can also use vinegar or molasses......no electricity required. I use vinegar a lot for smaller parts.

 

So what is your process as far as ingredients etc.

 

This is a pretty good link with a decent summary:

Electrolysis - Rust Removal


Jim

 

I used the process to clean the gas tank in my 49 this past summer since I was unable to find a radiator shop in my area. This tank was such poor condition inside I was considering buying a new one. I think it had been cleaned and and some kind of sealer used in it years before. I had nothing to lose so I let it "cook" for about three weeks and every bit of the previous sealer and gunk came out of it. I etched and re-sealed it with Hirsh's products...

 

I use a heavy mixture of Tri Sodium Phosphate. I believe it removes paint a bit better along with the rust.
Follow the link.
Electrolysis - Rust Removal

 

Curious about the process also. Read up on the link and I understand how it works, but none of the websites I found give a time table for how long this takes? Does it really take 3 weeks to do one part or did you just put it in the solution and happen to check it then?

 

I've not been able to define a time to do a specific job. Seems to me the variable are, and my list is probalby not be complete.
Composition of the metal being processed, cast, high carbon steel, mild steel.
Strength of the solution. TSP works great for me.
Strength of the DC power you are running, how many amps you can get to run. More is better.
Size of your electrodes.
Distance between your two pieces.
I've never had anything take weeks although I've had it take days.
When you get your process set up right you will see action within a few seconds.
Good luck, try it , you'll like it.

 

I've used electrolysis extensively on both antique tractor and automotive parts. I think it's the greatest thng since sliced bread - if you're not in a terrible hurry. It will only remove the rust and paint without pitting or abrading the metal like blasting will, it's cheap and simple, and it pretty much does its thing while you go do something else..

I use Arm & Hammer WASHING soda (not baking soda) mixed with water for the electrolyte solution. It's cheap and I get good results with it on both paint and rust. The most important thing to remember is the POSITIVE GAINS THE CRUD. Never hook the positive lead of the battery charger or power source up to the part you want to clean or you will destroy it. Also remember that the process works by line of sight, so if you have a large or irregularly shaped part it might be necessary to get creative with a multiple anode arrangement all connected together to get good results all over the part.

I usually use a 3 day process with short sections of rebar for the sacrificial anode. You can pick up a bundle of 10 or so at the hardware store for 2 bucks. Day one is your normal electrolys process with the anodes connected to the positive lead of the battery charger and the negative on the part to be cleaned. If you've got it set up right, it will pull strong current and boil pretty good for most of that first day before dropping off quickly. On day 2, I pull the part out and scrub the black ex-rust gook and any loosened paint off with a scotch-brite pad and lots of hot water. Then I'll reverse the process on the sacrificial anodes ONLY. As your part derusts, the anodes rust quickly and this is what causes the current and cleaning action to drop off. I use a new piece of rebar as an anode on the positive lead and connect the negative to the used anodes to clean them back up without my part in at all. On day 3, I'll pull the cleaned anodes out and give them a quick scrub with scotch-brite and water before reconnecting them on the positive and putting the part back in on the negative lead. The current will be high again and quick cleaning action will resume. Another good scrubbing under hot water after the 3rd day will have your part about as clean as it's going to get. It should be paint and rust-free for the most part and mostly clean bare metal. At this point, I usually wipe it down good with Ospho or any other phosphoric acid product to kill any remaining rust or new flash rust and protect it until it's ready for paint.

Experiment and be creative with it!

 

Thanks for the info guys. I really want to try this now but of course it's dec and getting cold in the Midwest. I'm guessing the water solution will freeze so I'll have to wait until next year since it can't be done indoors.

 

I've used lye (as well as PH Plus), which really softens the paint, causing to slough. Of course the electrolysis process is taking care of the rust. Be cautious, as it will cause your skin, eyes, etc. to slough as well.

 

I'm a vinegar guy myself.

 

It took three weeks on my tank because it was in such bad shape. I drained the tank and flushed it about every four or five days and then restarted the process. I used two rebar anodes tied together, one in the filler neck and one in the sender unit hole and insulated them from touching the sides. I use the Arm and Hammer washing powder when I can find it but I have used baking soda also and it works nearly as well. Other small parts I have done take only a day or two...

 

Greatnorthwoods.... Thanks for all the info. I'll read up some more and look for parts before the snow ends this year so I can start right away early next year.