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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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From: Katy Tx
3v Head Problems

OK I have an 05 expedition. Had a misfire on cly 3. Had an injector go out on cyl 8 10 months ago. Had 101000 miles on it. Ford but a new injector and short block in it as it bent a rod. Now it has 117000 miles on it and it became to rattle really bad. took to dealer and said had valve train issues on cyl 3. Wanted to charge me 5hrs to pull valvecover. I brought it home and pulled it off in an hour. Is hell to get off but not 5hrs of it. # 3 cyl has a broken follower and spring off of valve. valve is up not sure if it hit a piston but won't move so appears to be bent. Cam is also gaulded on that lobe. Have always used 5w20 oil and ford filters. looks to be a oiling issue caused this but didn't rattle at all before it came apart.
So is it easer to pull the head in the truck or pull the motor to fix. I have about had it with this truck. Had a 2v expedition had over 200000 on that one not 1 issue. This one has been nothing but probs since I had it.
Has anybody else had these issues.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 10:10 AM
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Johnny Langton
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From: SE Texas
Originally Posted by maxxoffroad
OK I have an 05 expedition. Had a misfire on cly 3. Had an injector go out on cyl 8 10 months ago. Had 101000 miles on it. Ford but a new injector and short block in it as it bent a rod. Now it has 117000 miles on it and it became to rattle really bad. took to dealer and said had valve train issues on cyl 3. Wanted to charge me 5hrs to pull valvecover. I brought it home and pulled it off in an hour. Is hell to get off but not 5hrs of it. # 3 cyl has a broken follower and spring off of valve. valve is up not sure if it hit a piston but won't move so appears to be bent. Cam is also gaulded on that lobe. Have always used 5w20 oil and ford filters. looks to be a oiling issue caused this but didn't rattle at all before it came apart.
So is it easer to pull the head in the truck or pull the motor to fix. I have about had it with this truck. Had a 2v expedition had over 200000 on that one not 1 issue. This one has been nothing but probs since I had it.
Has anybody else had these issues.
Pull the head. It will come out pretty easy. I've pulled a 3V head out of one before, and it's wider.
JL
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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From: Katy Tx
It is a 3v. Do I need to replace the head bolts also or can I reuse these can't find munch info on the 3v stuff.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Johnny Langton
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Originally Posted by maxxoffroad
It is a 3v. Do I need to replace the head bolts also or can I reuse these can't find munch info on the 3v stuff.
All of the modular headbolts are TTY and must be replaced.
JL
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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From: Katy Tx
OK pretty much got it tore down today. Timing chain tensioner is collapsed on the pass side. Why would that be ford replaced the chains vct and tensioner 14,000 miles ago. chain is sloppy loose on pass side. This thing as me so aggravated.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 06:54 AM
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From: SE Texas
Originally Posted by maxxoffroad
OK pretty much got it tore down today. Timing chain tensioner is collapsed on the pass side. Why would that be ford replaced the chains vct and tensioner 14,000 miles ago. chain is sloppy loose on pass side. This thing as me so aggravated.
Bad parts are just bad parts. I'll bet it's the black plastic tensioner too. Replace it with the cast iron tensioner that has the "ratchet" mechanism to prevent collapsing.
JL
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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From: Katy Tx
Ok i am getting the parts today. Where would I get the cast iron one. Have the plastic ones now I guesse what year would I get them for want to go back to gether with the better parts
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by maxxoffroad
Ok i am getting the parts today. Where would I get the cast iron one. Have the plastic ones now I guesse what year would I get them for want to go back to gether with the better parts
You can get the iron tensioners from several sources. The cast iron version with the "ratchet" built in, is roughly double the cost of the plastic version, but it's worth it.
You may have to search under 5.4L or 4.6L 2V to find the iron tensioners. They're the same part as the 3V tensioner, but several cross references do not list them this way.
JL
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:30 AM
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From: Katy Tx
ok my ford parts guy said the 2v had iron ones but didn't think they would wk on 3v. If they will I will go that way for sure. Does oil pump them up also or just mechancal. Just want to double check before I get them. I have built many pushrod motors this is the first mod motor.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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From: SE Texas
Originally Posted by maxxoffroad
ok my ford parts guy said the 2v had iron ones but didn't think they would wk on 3v. If they will I will go that way for sure. Does oil pump them up also or just mechancal. Just want to double check before I get them. I have built many pushrod motors this is the first mod motor.
2V engine block is the same as a 3V engine block. So, yes they'll work perfectly.
All modular chain tensioners are hydraulic. You can get the iron tensioners from rockauto.com for around $55 each.
JL
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 02:31 PM
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Old thread but I'm doing the same thing. Can you tell me if the metal plate that comes with the tensioner is needed?
Amazon.com: T338K Brand New Timing Chain Tensioners Both Left & Right - Cast iron Original Ratchet Style: Automotive Amazon.com: T338K Brand New Timing Chain Tensioners Both Left & Right - Cast iron Original Ratchet Style: Automotive
 
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