91 has ZERO electrical power
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New User
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91 has ZERO electrical power
Hey there. My 91 f150 has zero electrical power to anything. Havnt tried too much but I know this is not a battery problem. Ive read it could be a bad ground, anyone know where the main ground is? I've heard it could be a fusible link, is there one that would be a more probable culprit than another? I really need to get this thing running again so please I need help. It was running then died while I was driving. No power. None. Thanks in advance for any help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Your 91 will have fuse links at the fender mounted relay, follow the positive battery cable to the lug those links will be located at.
Fuse link/s might not show any visible signs of damage yet still be fried, pull on each one (no need pull real hard) if burn out it'll get longer, stretching the casing.
Replacement fuse link is available at the auto parts, match rating stamped on casing.
If you find that is not the problem post back let us know we'll go from there.
Fuse link/s might not show any visible signs of damage yet still be fried, pull on each one (no need pull real hard) if burn out it'll get longer, stretching the casing.
Replacement fuse link is available at the auto parts, match rating stamped on casing.
If you find that is not the problem post back let us know we'll go from there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Do you have a voltmeter or test light? Check voltage at battery, then move the neg lead to the block to check the ground. follow the positive lead and check for power at the relay. It could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Monmouth County, NJ
My vote is for either fried connections between the cable and battery clamp, or the ground on the hoist eye in the head. As there are multiple fuselinks, something or other should get power if one of them burns.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Monmouth County, NJ
Mitch: Did you look at the safety switch on the clutch pushrod? Sometimes it doesn't work or needs to be adjusted. Same goes for the ignition switch (the actual switch, not the key cylinder) that bolts to the steering column.
cfdr114: Please ignore my statement about the hoist eye. My truck has a '79 motor and I forgot that a '92 wouldn't have any hoist eyes. I'd still look for bad connections near the battery though.
cfdr114: Please ignore my statement about the hoist eye. My truck has a '79 motor and I forgot that a '92 wouldn't have any hoist eyes. I'd still look for bad connections near the battery though.
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Moderator
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Try jiggling the key towards yourself, the mechanisms in the steering column sometimes gunk up and the spring eventually can't overpower it to return the ignition switch to the RUN position from START.
Do the headlights work?
Do the headlights work?
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
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UPDATE: I replaced the battery cable from the battery to the relay on my fender. I now have headlights, interior lights nothing on the dash though. It won't do anything from the ignition. But if I bridge the post on the relay it will move.power down to my starter. Any ideas? The relay has been replaced since after my problems began. Also, with the ignition turned over I'm not getting a reading on by voltmeter on the second post(the one that goes down to starter) thanks again
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"But if I bridge the post on the relay it will move.power down to my starter. Any ideas?" By "relay" do you mean you are bridging the posts on the solenoid to send power to the starter? what happens at each step of the key?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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you might have blown that solenoid. there is also a (i believe) a fuseable red wire that comes off of the rear post of that solenoid. check that for current. will the truck start by simply crossing the solenoid? with the key in any position? does the solenoid click with the key in the start position? If you have no click from the solenoid then that might be the issue. If I recall correctly you have to have the ignition in the start position then bridge the solenoid. This happened to me after I cross wired a jump while extremely hungover @ 5 am. Damn Holiday party open bar the night before!!! Damn getting old!! I was lucky enough to catch the problem when the solenoid just started smoking. All I had to replace was the 10A fuse in the back of the stereo. You should also check any fuse that has anything to do with dash instrumentation. That is the limit of my experience with the issues you are having, good luck!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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It starts when you bridge the solenoid right? In what key position? in all? Check that fused red wire that come off of the solenoid for current. Sorry I didn't pick up everything from the previous posts, mia culpa. Does the solenoid click when you turn the key to "start" position? If there is no click then there is either no current to the solenoid (unlikely since you can bridge it) or the switch leg to the ignition is bad (i.e. the solenoid is powered but isn't closing the circuit) I'm just trying to see if it could be a solenoid issue rather than an ignition issue. Once you eliminate the solenoid completely you can refine your diagnosis.