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It came out of the manifold below the choke on the pass side. It's vacuum operated. The valve opens when you apply vacuum. Coincidentally, it's the source of a vacuum leak where the little arm goes into the manifold.
1985 F-150 with all feedback stuff removed. This part was just sitting there letting air in.
Used partially for warming up the manifold in cold weather conditions. Crossover for emissions. You can remove that if you cut a small piece of tin to cover the holes in the gasket, but that requires removing the intake.
Used partially for warming up the manifold in cold weather conditions. Crossover for emissions. You can remove that if you cut a small piece of tin to cover the holes in the gasket, but that requires removing the intake.
I could just block off the hole with a plate right?
What concerns me is that in its relaxed position, that little valve on the bottom that goes into the manifold is in the closed position. If I leave it out, then that path 'down there' is left open. I don't know if that's bad or not... ? This is yet another strange part I can't figure out.
This one is just a valve, no vacuum tubes. Some of the heat risers are in that location.
Is your choke a single wire to the alternator?
If it's in the closed position, you could just put it back in with a new gasket and it'll be fine. One of the main features is to heat up the manifold to get the engine to operating temps as soon as possible. Kind of like the valve on the drivers side exhaust manifold, which you may or may not have.
It is a diverter valve for the exhaust heat to the carb. Was to allow warming the carb quickly to enhance vaporizing the gas to improve emissions. But, too much heat causes problems as well, so the valve allows for it to be shut off.
This one is just a valve, no vacuum tubes. Some of the heat risers are in that location.
Is your choke a single wire to the alternator?
The top of it has a vacuum fitting on it where a hose used to go. If you apply vacuum, the paddle valve underneath opens up. The vacuum leak is where the shaft goes from the housing on top, through the gasket and into the manifold.
The choke is an electric choke, one wire to the alternator. The carb is a no-frills 2150 but the manifold is what came on the truck with all that feedback stuff... and this thing.
I do have the driver's side exh man valve. I hope that thing defaults to the open position because it's not plumbed either.
It is a diverter valve for the exhaust heat to the carb. Was to allow warming the carb quickly to enhance vaporizing the gas to improve emissions. But, too much heat causes problems as well, so the valve allows for it to be shut off.
It is completely sealed off from the inside of the manifold. The valve that opens/closes has to open/close some pathway inside the manifold.
I guess it was connected at some point to a vacuum source that was controlled by the ecm? If it was controlled by engine vacuum, it would open upon engine cranking and stay open all the time. Right?
I do have the driver's side exh man valve. I hope that thing defaults to the open position because it's not plumbed either.
If I remember correctly, it is closed when no vacuum is present. May want to check into that. I cut the shaft and pulled out the butterfly valve in mine.
Originally Posted by silver777
It is completely sealed off from the inside of the manifold. The valve that opens/closes has to open/close some pathway inside the manifold.
I guess it was connected at some point to a vacuum source that was controlled by the ecm? If it was controlled by engine vacuum, it would open upon engine cranking and stay open all the time. Right?
At one time, it should have been connected to a "heat valve"???? don't know correct terminology. Screws into intake and opens and closes with coolant temp to supply vacuum to different circuits as needed. Like these:1977 Lincoln Mark V Vacuum Switches
Sometimes there were choke heater tubes (9C869 below) that went into there, other times there was a diverter valve (9G464).
This particular variant is E3TZ-9G464-A VALVE ASSY. (INTAKE MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL) Obsolete, no dealers or NOS vendors have any Used on: 83/87 E-F100/250 & Bronco with the 302; also, 84/87 E-F150/250 & Bronco that have the 4V carb.
It controlled exhaust gasses flowing beneath the carburetor (which allowed for faster warm-ups in cold weather) and was controlled by a temperature-actuated vacuum switch.
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That is it - 9G464. Wish I could have found that diagram somewhere.
So now the question is - can I leave it out and leave that airpath open, or should I put it back in to keep the path closed? Which position routed hot air to the carb base? I don't want it stuck in 'warm up' position all the time.
Open allows exhaust gas to pass from one head to the other through the passage in the intake manifold, which is right below the carb. So, if you take it out you are in "warm-up" position by definition.
I think it defaults to closed w/o vacuum, and if yours is in that position you could reinstall it and try the truck that way. If after driving it a while you don't like that you can either pull it and put something on to seal the opening, or buy a new/used one to replace it.
A lot of us are running with the equivalent of that valve out because most of the manifolds used before 1985 didn't have that valve (I'm out on a limb here, going by my admittedly-limited experience), and I've not heard of very many problems.
Ok so it sounds like that passage should be closed off for all but warm up. I'll figure some way to seal up the air leak where the hinge passes through the plate and reinstall it, keeping that passage inside the manifold blocked off. Sounds like that's how it should be and that it would probably be a bad thing to leave that passage open by leaving out the valve. Yes, it does default to 'closed' with out vacuum.
Sorry, but I did a poor job explaining. I think you'll be better off with the passage open rather than closed because the majority of use are running "open". However, you can try it closed by installing the diverter valve and find out how it drives and how you like it - it won't hurt anything to do so.
I see. My thinking is I was under the impression that it closes when the engine warms up, so I assumed I should leave it in and closed since warming up is second priority to how it runs when it's warm.
I'll reinstall it, but I'll rig it up to be open (maybe just run vacuum to it) and see if it runs any different. It does take a LONG time to warm up and settle into a smooth idle. Maybe opening it up will help.