have a .66amp draw
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
have a .66amp draw
I went to Autozone and had a free test done it said it had a .66a draw. Key was out, all light off, checked glove box light and trunk light to.
I removed the poss cable and waited 1 hour and tested between + cable and + post. I set my $15 digital volt meter to, red probe to 10ADC and black probe to com. Then set meter to 10A. I get a zero reading, even when turning on the dome light.
I removed the poss cable and waited 1 hour and tested between + cable and + post. I set my $15 digital volt meter to, red probe to 10ADC and black probe to com. Then set meter to 10A. I get a zero reading, even when turning on the dome light.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
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From: St Louis
A .66 A draw is pretty normal for about 30-45 minutes after the last activity. You have to wait for the battery saver to time out before making any readings. The ammeter MUST be installed before entering the delay period.
I don't see a problem with the truck in your post.
Time for a new meter...
I don't see a problem with the truck in your post.
Time for a new meter...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
I got this amp reading after waited a few minutes before the test was done at Autozone. Should I have waited before having the test done, if so how long. Could the test be wrong? Battery, starter and alternator tested ok.
I got a quick amp reading from my anolog meter then it stayed at zero. Both meters still work on other settings.
The main problem was in the morning there was only 11 volts at the battery and we could tell that it started slower. After a drive it started fine, and the battery was fully charged. I there a short somewhere?
I got a quick amp reading from my anolog meter then it stayed at zero. Both meters still work on other settings.
The main problem was in the morning there was only 11 volts at the battery and we could tell that it started slower. After a drive it started fine, and the battery was fully charged. I there a short somewhere?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
Again, you have a 40 minute delay before the battery saver relay kicks out. Any current reading before that is not valid if checking for unwanted current draw.
Are you having an actual problem or concern or are you just curious about the AZ test results? In other words, do not make a problem out of ordinary operations or an improperly executed test.
Are you having an actual problem or concern or are you just curious about the AZ test results? In other words, do not make a problem out of ordinary operations or an improperly executed test.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
bulb test
I redid the test with a small light bulb between the neg cable and neg post. The light bulb came on for a second then faded fast. Then lift ground wire and retested I get a dim light then fades fast again. Tried a third time and I got very little light which faded fast. Forth time no light.
Can't pull fuses with this kind of test, why does the bulb fade?
Can't pull fuses with this kind of test, why does the bulb fade?
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From: Virginia
I am assuming you are working on the 93? Your truck was in the beginning of the complex electronics entering the trucks. There is all kinds of modules with timers, memories, etc. If this was a 60's or 70's vehicle, you would have something to wonder about. The later ones will always have a small draw, and as you are finding out, can have a large draw for a period of time before it times out. The light fading out is a hint that everything is normal. A large draw would keep the light bright.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
Don't do this on a negative-ground vehicle. Never remove the positive cable first. If your wrench shorts against sheetmetal or a radiator support, etc when you're pulling the positive cable with the negative cable still attached, the spark can ignite fumes that normally exist around an automative battery. In some cases, the current can be enough to split the wrench in two.
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
Sorry I did the test wrong. I charged the battery (draw drains battery over 7 days). Now I got the bulb to stay on all the time, between the neg cable and post. To stop the draw I removed the fuse for interior lighting. Remote doors, cargo light, doom light and chime don't work now. How do I test lets say the doom light, to see if there's a circuit short? Do I run a wire from the poss post the the doom light?? How do you test a relay.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
I connected the bulb between the neg cable and post. Should a wait 40 minutes to see if the bulb is still on. I think the bulb will always stay on because each morning the battery is weaker by a few volts. How do I test the doom light, with the fuse out. To see if there's a circuit short? Do I run a wire from the poss post the the doom light?? How do you test a relay.