have a .66amp draw
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
have a .66amp draw
I went to Autozone and had a free test done it said it had a .66a draw. Key was out, all light off, checked glove box light and trunk light to.
I removed the poss cable and waited 1 hour and tested between + cable and + post. I set my $15 digital volt meter to, red probe to 10ADC and black probe to com. Then set meter to 10A. I get a zero reading, even when turning on the dome light.
I removed the poss cable and waited 1 hour and tested between + cable and + post. I set my $15 digital volt meter to, red probe to 10ADC and black probe to com. Then set meter to 10A. I get a zero reading, even when turning on the dome light.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
A .66 A draw is pretty normal for about 30-45 minutes after the last activity. You have to wait for the battery saver to time out before making any readings. The ammeter MUST be installed before entering the delay period.
I don't see a problem with the truck in your post.
Time for a new meter...
I don't see a problem with the truck in your post.
Time for a new meter...
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
I got this amp reading after waited a few minutes before the test was done at Autozone. Should I have waited before having the test done, if so how long. Could the test be wrong? Battery, starter and alternator tested ok.
I got a quick amp reading from my anolog meter then it stayed at zero. Both meters still work on other settings.
The main problem was in the morning there was only 11 volts at the battery and we could tell that it started slower. After a drive it started fine, and the battery was fully charged. I there a short somewhere?
I got a quick amp reading from my anolog meter then it stayed at zero. Both meters still work on other settings.
The main problem was in the morning there was only 11 volts at the battery and we could tell that it started slower. After a drive it started fine, and the battery was fully charged. I there a short somewhere?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
Again, you have a 40 minute delay before the battery saver relay kicks out. Any current reading before that is not valid if checking for unwanted current draw.
Are you having an actual problem or concern or are you just curious about the AZ test results? In other words, do not make a problem out of ordinary operations or an improperly executed test.
Are you having an actual problem or concern or are you just curious about the AZ test results? In other words, do not make a problem out of ordinary operations or an improperly executed test.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
bulb test
I redid the test with a small light bulb between the neg cable and neg post. The light bulb came on for a second then faded fast. Then lift ground wire and retested I get a dim light then fades fast again. Tried a third time and I got very little light which faded fast. Forth time no light.
Can't pull fuses with this kind of test, why does the bulb fade?
Can't pull fuses with this kind of test, why does the bulb fade?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,027
Likes: 2,759
From: Virginia
I am assuming you are working on the 93? Your truck was in the beginning of the complex electronics entering the trucks. There is all kinds of modules with timers, memories, etc. If this was a 60's or 70's vehicle, you would have something to wonder about. The later ones will always have a small draw, and as you are finding out, can have a large draw for a period of time before it times out. The light fading out is a hint that everything is normal. A large draw would keep the light bright.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
Don't do this on a negative-ground vehicle. Never remove the positive cable first. If your wrench shorts against sheetmetal or a radiator support, etc when you're pulling the positive cable with the negative cable still attached, the spark can ignite fumes that normally exist around an automative battery. In some cases, the current can be enough to split the wrench in two.
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
Always remove the negative cable first, and re-install it last. You want to perform this test between the negative cable and the negative post, not the other way around.
Sorry I did the test wrong. I charged the battery (draw drains battery over 7 days). Now I got the bulb to stay on all the time, between the neg cable and post. To stop the draw I removed the fuse for interior lighting. Remote doors, cargo light, doom light and chime don't work now. How do I test lets say the doom light, to see if there's a circuit short? Do I run a wire from the poss post the the doom light?? How do you test a relay.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
I connected the bulb between the neg cable and post. Should a wait 40 minutes to see if the bulb is still on. I think the bulb will always stay on because each morning the battery is weaker by a few volts. How do I test the doom light, with the fuse out. To see if there's a circuit short? Do I run a wire from the poss post the the doom light?? How do you test a relay.