4x4 issues
4x4 issues
I have an 02' Limited X and I was having issues with the front hubs trying to engage and disengage when they were set to free. I replaced the hubs and the same issues/noise is occurring. When I lock in the hubs or put the truck in 4 wheel the noise goes away but when I have it set to free and in 2wd the front end sounds like it wants to engage. Occasionally when I hit a bump the noise will start or stop.
I have an 02' Limited X and I was having issues with the front hubs trying to engage and disengage when they were set to free. I replaced the hubs and the same issues/noise is occurring. When I lock in the hubs or put the truck in 4 wheel the noise goes away but when I have it set to free and in 2wd the front end sounds like it wants to engage. Occasionally when I hit a bump the noise will start or stop.
That noise you hear is letting you know that your NOT unlocking.
You can try lubing ( service the hub ). May help.
I have an 02' Limited X and I was having issues with the front hubs trying to engage and disengage when they were set to free. I replaced the hubs and the same issues/noise is occurring. When I lock in the hubs or put the truck in 4 wheel the noise goes away but when I have it set to free and in 2wd the front end sounds like it wants to engage. Occasionally when I hit a bump the noise will start or stop.
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Sorry forgot to mention about the new hubs.
I'll check the needle bearings though but it only makes the noise when the hubs are set to free. When its in 4wd or the hubs are locked in the noise goes away completely until I put it back in 2wd or set the hubs back to free.
I'll check the needle bearings though but it only makes the noise when the hubs are set to free. When its in 4wd or the hubs are locked in the noise goes away completely until I put it back in 2wd or set the hubs back to free.
Sorry forgot to mention about the new hubs.
I'll check the needle bearings though but it only makes the noise when the hubs are set to free. When its in 4wd or the hubs are locked in the noise goes away completely until I put it back in 2wd or set the hubs back to free.
I'll check the needle bearings though but it only makes the noise when the hubs are set to free. When its in 4wd or the hubs are locked in the noise goes away completely until I put it back in 2wd or set the hubs back to free.
The issue describe is classic needle bearing and worn yoke issue. The manual hub locks will not change the issue.
The axle shaft (yoke) rides on the needle bearing inside the hub (wheel bearing) unit. If one or the other is damaged (worn), it can rattle around and make the noise while driving, sometimes catching under friction, spinning and making a horrible racket especially when unlocked. It kind of sounds like those old dynamo wind up cars when you'd wind them up and then lift the car into the air, wheels spinning. It'd make a terrible unbalanced spinning racket.
Here is a test you can do:
With the manual Warn hubs unlocked and in 2wd, drive it and wait for it to make the noise.
While it is making the noise (truck still moving), select 4wd high on the dash (hubs still unlocked) the noise should go away right away.
!!DO NOT DRIVE AROUND IN 4WD WITH HUBS UNLOCKED EXCEPT FOR THIS TEMPORARY TEST!!
Why does the noise go away and proove a bad needle bearing? That is because the load of the 4wd drive system on the axle shaft is straightening it out and stopping the vibration rattle of the yoke in the needle bearing temporarily. It dampens the vibration, thus the noise goes away.
You probably need new needle bearings and axle end shafts (yokes). Don't just replace the bearings, both parts are shot and should be replaced at the same time. You should do u-joints at the same time as well since you need to remove them to replace the stub shaft (yoke). You may only need to replace one side, not both sides.
Been there, done that, have the greasy t-shirt and quiet needle bearings.
The axle shaft (yoke) rides on the needle bearing inside the hub (wheel bearing) unit. If one or the other is damaged (worn), it can rattle around and make the noise while driving, sometimes catching under friction, spinning and making a horrible racket especially when unlocked. It kind of sounds like those old dynamo wind up cars when you'd wind them up and then lift the car into the air, wheels spinning. It'd make a terrible unbalanced spinning racket.
Here is a test you can do:
With the manual Warn hubs unlocked and in 2wd, drive it and wait for it to make the noise.
While it is making the noise (truck still moving), select 4wd high on the dash (hubs still unlocked) the noise should go away right away.
!!DO NOT DRIVE AROUND IN 4WD WITH HUBS UNLOCKED EXCEPT FOR THIS TEMPORARY TEST!!
Why does the noise go away and proove a bad needle bearing? That is because the load of the 4wd drive system on the axle shaft is straightening it out and stopping the vibration rattle of the yoke in the needle bearing temporarily. It dampens the vibration, thus the noise goes away.
You probably need new needle bearings and axle end shafts (yokes). Don't just replace the bearings, both parts are shot and should be replaced at the same time. You should do u-joints at the same time as well since you need to remove them to replace the stub shaft (yoke). You may only need to replace one side, not both sides.
Been there, done that, have the greasy t-shirt and quiet needle bearings.
Last edited by jasonodsky; Dec 5, 2011 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Clarification of noise cause
The issue describe is classic needle bearing and worn yoke issue. The manual hub locks will not change the issue.
The axle shaft (yoke) rides on the needle bearing inside the hub (wheel bearing) unit. If one or the other is damaged (worn), it can rattle around and make the noise while driving, sometimes catching under friction, spinning and making a horrible racket especially when unlocked. It kind of sounds like those old dynamo wind up cars when you'd wind them up and then lift the car into the air, wheels spinning. It'd make a terrible unbalanced spinning racket.
Here is a test you can do:
With the manual Warn hubs unlocked and in 2wd, drive it and wait for it to make the noise.
While it is making the noise (truck still moving), select 4wd high on the dash (hubs still unlocked) the noise should go away right away.
!!DO NOT DRIVE AROUND IN 4WD WITH HUBS UNLOCKED EXCEPT FOR THIS TEMPORARY TEST!!
Why does the noise go away and proove a bad needle bearing? That is because the load of the 4wd drive system on the axle shaft is straightening it out and stopping the vibration rattle of the yoke in the needle bearing temporarily. It dampens the vibration, thus the noise goes away.
You probably need new needle bearings and axle end shafts (yokes). Don't just replace the bearings, both parts are shot and should be replaced at the same time. You should do u-joints at the same time as well since you need to remove them to replace the stub shaft (yoke). You may only need to replace one side, not both sides.
Been there, done that, have the greasy t-shirt and quiet needle bearings.
The axle shaft (yoke) rides on the needle bearing inside the hub (wheel bearing) unit. If one or the other is damaged (worn), it can rattle around and make the noise while driving, sometimes catching under friction, spinning and making a horrible racket especially when unlocked. It kind of sounds like those old dynamo wind up cars when you'd wind them up and then lift the car into the air, wheels spinning. It'd make a terrible unbalanced spinning racket.
Here is a test you can do:
With the manual Warn hubs unlocked and in 2wd, drive it and wait for it to make the noise.
While it is making the noise (truck still moving), select 4wd high on the dash (hubs still unlocked) the noise should go away right away.
!!DO NOT DRIVE AROUND IN 4WD WITH HUBS UNLOCKED EXCEPT FOR THIS TEMPORARY TEST!!
Why does the noise go away and proove a bad needle bearing? That is because the load of the 4wd drive system on the axle shaft is straightening it out and stopping the vibration rattle of the yoke in the needle bearing temporarily. It dampens the vibration, thus the noise goes away.
You probably need new needle bearings and axle end shafts (yokes). Don't just replace the bearings, both parts are shot and should be replaced at the same time. You should do u-joints at the same time as well since you need to remove them to replace the stub shaft (yoke). You may only need to replace one side, not both sides.
Been there, done that, have the greasy t-shirt and quiet needle bearings.

EXv10
With the old ones I was driving around with them locked in for almost a month before i replace them with the warn hubs. It still made the noise when I unlocked them. Haven't tried it with the warren hubs though.
With the old ones I was driving around with them locked in for almost a month before i replace them with the warn hubs. It still made the noise when I unlocked them. Haven't tried it with the warren hubs though.







