Dave.

I don't think you've specified WHAT KIND of use you're going to have for the saw.......Can you expand please?

I upgraded from a Stihl MS250 to the MS290 (Farm Boss) about 10 months ago. Couldn't be happier. Sure.....the 250 did pretty much everything I needed to do.....but struggled with some of the bigger jobs. I don't like to 'struggle'.....

Anyway, power-wise, no comparison. The MS290 (with the 20" bar) cuts through everything like butter. I like to over-engineer....I'm getting away from 'mostly adequate' to 'more than I absolutely need'.........

Enjoy. Tell us what you get. Chainsaws are sexy. Post pics.....

 

I generally cut about 2 cords per year. 90% of what I cut is already on the ground and less than 20 inches in diameter.

The Stihl 250 (without the toolless option) looks like a great saw. This saw is like 45cc and makes nearly 3hp. The MS290 is too much saw for me. My current saw is a used $100 Poulan with 42cc. I'm having carb and ignition trouble with it. I might have it looked at and keep it as a second saw.

Dolmar might make a good saw, but there aren't many dealers out where I live and I've never seen one.

 

I like the teeth, it helps with keeping your wrist from getting tired.

 

If you are only cutting 2 cords a year of down stuff, I would buy another Poulan. I have a 16" poulan I bought at Ace 4 years ago, cut at least 15 cords before i bought my Dolmar, and it is still going strong. Best part? Cost me $120 bucks. Still fire it up for limbing, etc... to save wear on my big guy and it is a 1-pull starter every time. Might be worth looking at, if you don't really need the "pro" level of a Husq, Stihl, etc...
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input jscode="leoInternalChangeDone()" onclick="if(typeof(jsCall)=='function'){jsCall();} else{setTimeout('jsCall()',500);}" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">

 

From what you described, the MS-250 is more than fine.........And again, great saw.

I just happened to get into some LARGE stuff on occasion........I'm usually cutting oh.......6 to 8 cords per year I use for the fireplace and the camping trips and stuff.....

 

When you guys say 'teeth'....are you talking about the 'bucking spikes'?

I'm not being a smart-a$$.....Just making sure we're talking the same thing. If so, then yes....the 'teeth' are great......especially when reaching around logs much wider than the chain length of the saw.......

OK.....Everyone here who still splits their wood using a maul, raise your hands.......

 

Bought the Stihl MS250 yesterday. After thoroughly reading the owner's manual, I was a little disappointed at the book. For one thing, it doesn't fully cover the three models of saw it is supposed to. Once getting through the silly reading about stuff like; don't grab the chain when the saw is running and don't pour gas or oil all over yourself the manual said nothing about how to start the saw I own. My saw does not have a fuel primer bulb and the book says nothing about starting one of these. Fortunately, I didn't have to call the saw shop where I bought the saw from. The saw I learned on (a 1977 Mccullough Pro Mac) had the same set up.

Is this how you MS250 owners start your saw? On a cold start, fully close the choke. Then give the pull cord a tug. Then move the control switch to the 1/2 choke position and pull the cord once more. I did not have the chain brake on and the saw came to life as if it was angry. The manual is vague about this part also.

 

Cold start always on 'full' choke. Pull until the saw kinda-sorta give a semi-start (it may rev for a second.....and it might take a few pulls). THEN move to half-choke. Pull until it starts (which should only take one or two pulls.......). It will kick directly into 'run' (you don't have to manipulate the choke once it starts......).....Just tap the trigger and it'll go into idle speed. There is no primer pump.......

I'm guessing you know how to put it into full choke (depress trigger fully, then move the choke lever to 'full')......

When it's already warmed up and you've been using it, you don't need to 'choke' it to re-start.

There's only one way to start a Stihl. If it gets flooded, there's only one way to UN-flood it. That procedure IS in the manual.....Learn it.....I've had to unflood a couple of times.......(take off cover, remove air filter and remove the spark plug......Put it on 'run' and pull the cord several times......THEN reattach everything and start as you normally would)....

I'm surprised the sales rep didn't show you how to start it.....That's pretty standard.....Kinda like a live, 5-minute tutorial on starting and running a Stihl......When I got my first Stihl from Faulk Brothers Hardware 6 or 7 years ago, the first thing they asked me was had I ever owned a Stihl....When I said 'no', they took me to class.....

 

Well, I don't burn wood any more, but when I did, I started with a Pooplan 20" saw. Later on, after that and a used Stihl I had bought from a buddy were stolen, I bought a Husqvarna 372xp (a pro saw). Wow. What used to take me 6 hours to cut (and then about 6 hours to fix the ^$#% saw) turned into just 2 hours and a chain sharpening after about 8 hours of cut time.

I own a maul (all steel, full wedge style) and have split with it, but the vast majority of my firewood each year (about 4-6 true cords) was split in a weekend with a rental log splitter. By picking it up on a Friday afternoon and returning it Monday morning, I could talk the rental company into giving me the one-day rate of ~$60 or so.

Probably one of the craziest things I ever saw was one time a friend of mine came over to help split, and he had been having a rough time in life. He started splitting wood with the maul, using a technique I had never seen. He would stand about 3-4 steps back from the log, and start with the maul vertical and hands about shoulder high. Then he would lunge toward the log and do a FULL WINDMILL WITH THE MAUL. I made sure not to p*ss him off...

Jason

 

We have many Stihl saws at work from a 170 to a 600 series. My favorite is the 310. Its extra power over the 250 lets me cut faster on large trees. The state park i work at has 120 more dead pine trees to remove. They are about 24 to 30 inch at the base. we use the big saw to drop them. A 250 does well cutting limbs but it does not do well cutting with the whole blade in a cut. It will but you have to ease it along. The 310 will scream with the blade buried in a tree. It is just my preference. A 250 is a great saw.

 

I want an 880 with a full port/ polish. I could just hold the saw in front of me and walk straight through the forest.

Occasional use, bah. I'd find something to do with it.

I have to admit that Deutschland produces better saws than the US. I've put my STIHL through hell and back (just like my Ford 300, haha) and it doesn't seem to be bothered. By my count about 1,500 hours, and although the top end is a little loose, it still runs. Nothing but a bunch of new chains and the proper motor oil and bar lube.

 

Yeah, in most cases a box store $100 would cover my needs. That is what I had before buying the Stihl. After about 6 seasons on this Poulan saw it's whipped. It looks like fuel and ignition trouble. The Stihl is more saw and it should be the last saw for a long time.

 

I always have


I've used my dads husqvarna 460 rancher (24 inch bar), and that thing is a beast. We've always used skiptooth chains. We cut maybe 3 cords a year, with about half standing and half fallen trees. Average diameter is about 28", which makes the 24" bar perfect.


Just my $0.02... Probably not much coming from a 16 year old



-Jameson

 

For me, as an amateur saw-man, if it needs a decompression button to start, it's probably more saw than I need.....