driving to work the other day, the truck started losing power and finally when i got to work, it died. it spins over fine but wont ever fire up. i can take a spark plug out, and they are soaked in fuel. i can plug a spark plug into the coil wire and it sparks a light blue to almost white. i can plug a spark plug into the plug wires and it is more a dark blue to orange. so i tried a new coil, didnt change any thing, tried new igniton control module and it didnt change anything, check TDC 1000 times and it is fine. plugs and wires are 8 months old and still look in good condition. help please. i dont have a running vehicle

 

Search here PIP circuit, basically you need to replace the distributor or only the pick up coil if you have a puller...change out the TFI at the same time, Carquest sells a heat tested NEW distributor, the way to go I think.

 

i have new TFI module installed, new coil installed, new pick up assembly installed, distributor gear is fine, new dist cap and rotor button and rotor button turns properly

 

Tell a little bit more about the pickup, you switched it out?

 

removed distributor, removed distributor shaft, removed the pick up assembly/module/sensor P.o.s inside the distributor, bought new one from NAPA and installed it in the reverse order. that part was installed 4 months ago

 

Those things do not have a good track record, I replaced 3 in a row. Finally installing a new distributor with a heat tested pick up, Carquest 130.00. You will need to test the PIP circuit and the computer possibly could be faulty...see here SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

Part 5 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).

 

Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Distributor Mounted Module (ICM).

on this site on the first paragraph it says """So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working."""

so since i have spark at the coil, should that eliminate the PIP??

 

The problem that your dealing with is heat...all's fine till it heats up, cools down, its good again...so they are saying test right after it fails, you may be able to leave her running in the driveway till she dies

 

so you are saying that my distributor has heated up to many times has hurt my PIP? i am lost when you are talking about an heat issue. not trying to argue just trying to understand. if i replace my PIP again and it works, r u saying that the distributor (not heat treated) will eventually mess up the new PIP sensor?

 

No, the pickup itself, or the TFI, or the computer one of them when hot fails, thats maybe. You may have a fuel problem, that's why you need to start somewhere...so when it dies see if you have spark.

 

Have you removed the spout jumper taking the computer temporarily out of the equation doing so, see if it will start and run at "base" timing?

Because it won't start now but yet does have spark? If so yea I have to say at least for the moment that condition suggests the PIP is good.

Might also try holding gas pedal down to floor, temporary halts fuel injection to clear flooded cylinders.

 

I am having a similar problem with my '91 F150 5.0. Doinfroggy, what condition is your truck in? Mine has loose steering, an exhaust leak that puts exhaust fumes into the cab, typical Ford rust issues, and 224,000 miles. My point is, I'm not sure if it's worth putting money into a truck that's virtually dead anyway. If I can get out of it what I paid, and add a little extra to that, I could get something decent.

Just a thought.

 

the truck will not start period. the truck died at work and will not start back. i have fuel and plenty of it. THE PIP is brand new, the TIF is brand spankin new. dIST CAP AND ROTOR BUTTON IS NEW. As for spark, yes there is spark comin from the coil, and a weaker spark coming from the plugs.. i havent tried with the spout out.. . . now is it all worth it- - - - well yea. truck has minimal rust, interior is great. motor has complete rebuild with comp cam cam/lifter/timing set, every piece (minus injectors) in the fuel setup is Brand new, long tube headers, true duals, and it even has a/c.

 

You have spark during a no start condition, the timing was not messed with recently. You hear the fuel pump prime for a second when you turn the key on. Then you should check to see just how much fuel pressure is there (even though the plugs were wet), by using a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, just best to rule it out of the equation ...a no start is spark/fuel/or air and or a bad combination...establish that you have proper fuel pressure/spark during the no start, then I would run a test on the computer stored codes, you might find the answer there.

 

computer codes are 21 and 24. ACT and ECT are out of range. ACT is new. I will put a fuel pressure gauge on it today. all fuel pumps filters and pressure regs are BRAND NEW so thats y i eliminated that. but new can go bad