fuel pressure at the fuel rail is 40psi, clogged fuel filter made it read lower. i do still have spark with spout in or out, at coil and at plugs. still it will not start. i am coing to charge the battery and hit it with some starting fluid after work and see if it tries to start. if not, any thing else that i can eliminate?

 

tried to hit it with starting fluid and didnt even try to start. one time it blew a flame out the throttle body but that was once in 5 min of trying. fuel pressure said 40 psi the whole time. My dad let me borrow a NIOD light set to test fuel injectors and they are cycling. well--now where to start??

 

A fuel rich condition may have caused oil to be washed off the cyl walls. Try cranking and holding the throttle at wide open, that should shut down the fuel injectors and hopefully give you a close enough mixture to attempt to start. As a secondary check, near the battery negative terminal there's a plastic plug that sometimes has the pins dissolve, this is a dedicated ecm ground and can cause all sorts of weird issues.

 

any body else?

 

ACT and ECT are out of range but ACT is new.

You're gonna have to do some tests and find out why that is.

 

It does sound like it could have washed the walls with gas and lost compression but when you're cranking, does the cranking speed sound even or does it sound like something is irregular as its turning over. A second check is to put a compression gauge in the plug hole or at worst put your finger near the plug hole with the spark plug removed, see if you get the big spike of pressure at the same relative moment as the spark happens. Its possible that it has jumped time, not likely but possible. If you have a timing light you should be able to get a reading off the crank while wheeling it over. Cleaning your plugs off with a propane torch might help you out. It sounds like you have fuel, and some spark, but the events are not in the right sequence. Checking with a timing light will be a big help. Another thing, driving and lost power, its possible maybe that you melted a cat and your exhaust is so plugged your engine won't run.

 

no cats on my truck. longtube headers and mmagnaflow mufflers only. i am going to put my battery on charge cause it does spin a little slower than normal. as for the compression, my dad put his thumb on the hole and i cranked the motor and it blew his finger off the hole. i also did trip the fuel shut off on purpose so it wouldnt flood my engine. and yes i did reset it.

 

I suppose if you could get him to hold the plug wire at the same time... Anyway, pull your plugs, torch them to flash off the fuel and carbon or just pop new ones in. If you have an old school oil can or a can of spray lube, with the plugs out, wheel the motor over a few times, spray some lube in each plug hole and spin it over for another second, install new plugs and see if it fires (after charging the battery fully) What has me interested is the loss of power as you were driving.. would be curious to advance or retard the distributor a bit and see if the symptoms change. Spin it +/- 1/2 plug tower span, I'd start in the advance direction first just in case the timing chain jumped. How many miles are on the engine.

 

In your OP you stated "check TDC 1000 times and it is fine", can we ask how you went about determining that? Exactly what you did to verify it was correct?

 

Dad put thumb over no.1 spark plug hole, using a starter button, bumped the motor over till finger blew off. Checked that with timing marks on crank pulley, then checked the position of the rotor button which was pointing to the no. 1 plug wire on dist cap.

 

Did you get a chance to eyeball that plastic 2 wire connector over by the battery ground? Pop it open and look at the two pins inside.

 

forgot to check that. i will definitly do that tonight or in the morning.

 

it can cause some wacky stuff, the connector will look fine but the nylon gets porous and then all the contacts dissolve. Ususally replace it with a couple splices.

 

Did you do static pressure leakage test?

Start it up or cycle key on and off couple times allowing it build full pressure, then turn the key off.

Should hold within 5psi of spec for one minute after power is off.

 

yes, the fuel PSI actually stays at 40 for couple minuets. even after 24 hours it still had 25 psi