So when I had my Expedition, I took some scrap wood I had lying around and built a drawer that I mounted in the back (using the third row seat mount) to keep my tools in. It kept them out of sight and kept them from rattling all around.

With the bigger Excursion, I'm thinking of building one for it that is a little more functional (tie downs on the top, etc.).

I am thinking of using MDF for the bottom and tops (of the drawer and the box itself) and using some roller bearings from my old Expedition box along with some linear slides I found for cheap on eBay. On the top I am thinking of integrating some "SuperStrut" (that U shaped channel you see in warehouse stores that hold up the conduit) as a platform to let me have tie down points at multiple points on the top (they have these little inserts that you can fasten an eye bolt to, then use ratchet straps as needed).

Here are some drawings I did in Visio to kind of play around with the parts and get accurate sizes:


The top left is a shot from the side, cutaway. The top right is from above, with the top wood parts set to about 50% transparency so you can see the drawer under it.

The bottom right is from the front (cutaway) and the bottom left is me goofing around trying to remember a high school drafting class I took.

Dimensions (outside) of the outer part (that the drawer slides into) is 4ft wide (may shorten an inch or so to allow for a short wall on the right side to mount things to), 1ft 1/2" tall, 4ft 6" deep (front to back).

The drawer inside dimensions are a little over 3ft 9inches wide, about 4ft 4inches deep and 8 3/4 inches tall.

The entire unit will be fastened to the truck using the 4 third row seat mounting points (should be a very strong point in the body and I won't need to drill into anything).

I will have a variety of tools inside (socket sets, sledge hammer, pry bars, bolt cutters, etc. etc. etc.). I also have a lot of blow mold type cases of other items as well as those larger Pelican waterproof cases and bags that will go onto the top and be tied down using the eye-bolt process I mentioend above. I may make some 1" webbing straps with buckles for the 'common' bags and what not I will have on the top instead of ratchet straps.

On the front side of the box I'd like to mount my amps and power inverter and anything else I need.

If anyone has built anything like this in the past (or even if you have thought of building one yourself), I'd like your input.

I saw one thread before but I can't find it now of folks that have some kind of storage insert on their X's. If you have one, can you post pics/drawings on this thread?

 

When I bought my Ex, it came with a large metal utility box that was bolted to the floor in the rear. It has one large pull out drawer with 4 or 5 rows that run the length of the unit. The rows have removable separators that can be placed where you want. Its about the size of what you would like to build. I believe it's 4'Wx3.5'Dx1'H. I have since removed it and its in my basement. Its really nice but I have no use for it. I can post pics of it or email them to you, maybe you could get some good design ideas from it.

 

Thanks for posting. I am always thinking of new ways to utilize the space the EX has. I usually keep my tool boxes and other junk I'm piddling around with in the back. It's usually a disaster back there with junk sliding around.

My latest project is an under-bumper hitch receiver. I have the Curt front receiver but it's kinda high up.

Post pics as you go......

 

Are you interested in selling that box ? I could really use that.......right now I keep all my gear and tools in zipper bags.....I have thought of building some thing also......I was thinking a full size lift up hinged lid with maybe hatch struts to hold it up

 

I thought about building something back there as well, who is the maker of that? It may be cheaper to buy one tan make one.


Robert great post and nice design as well... Keep us posted on the progress.

 

As for the metal one he has, I'm guessing it's from Weatherguard. Google "Weather Guard Pack Rat". Only problem us they run over $1000 for the size he is talking about. The design I am trying should run about $200 or less in parts.

My Expedition box was a "hybrid" - a drawer and half of the lid could tilt up via a piano hinge. That way I could access contents with just the glass open, or lift the entire gate and pull out the drawer. Only problem was I didn't have any drawer slides heavy duty enough - the drawer moved on roller bearings, so if you had the lid up, the drawer could only open less than half way.

I thought as I built it I would use a "lift top" more than the drawer, but as I created more usable space by hiding my tools in the box, I started using that space. Soon after I couldn't open the lift top since it had stuff on it.

 

Here are a few pics of it. It's the Weatherguard Pack Rat 338. Sorry, I didn't take any pics of it in the truck. It came with alot of divider inserts but not the proper mounting hardware.

 

njneer1, email me at dciliberti@rcn.com

I don't want to be reprimanded for buying/selling in the wrong forum.

 

Robert,

If you don't need the 3rd row then your idea is sound.
But you could use the 4 tie-downs behind the 3rd row to attach
to and retain the 3rd row.

I think you'll need to supplement the rear springs since all the weight
you are adding is gonna be primarily on the rear axle.

Be sure to leave a way to get to the spare!

Keep us up to date on your progress..

 

You got it !

 

I don't need the third row...I keep it for those once-a-year road trips with in-laws, but that's it.

I had this same type of setup in my Expy and didn't need anything to help the springs when not towing. When towing it did soften up too much so at one point I added some airbags inside the rear springs to stiffen it up. The tools sound heavy but in reality they don't weigh much more than two teens sitting in the third row. Figure the box will probably weigh about as much as the seat, the tools might come in at 200-250. I'm thinking the beefier leaf springs of the X should absorb all that weight just fine when not towing. Will need to test it with the trailer on though.

I'm hoping that I can lift and tilt that tire towards the center of the truck to get it out. If not, I may need to make it narrower by a couple of inches.

The plan is to do it in stages...build the outside box first, only screwing it together only until I get everything right, then glue and screw it all together to make sure I keep the squeaks out. And build the inner drawer to fit the outer box. The good thing is the SuperStrut top will allow me to make those top wood insets removable to do fine tuning if needed.

 

I built a 12in * 12in * 48in box with magnet attached lid out of 1inch pine for my expedition because I liked keeping the 3rd row seat in so it was a snug fit between the 3rd and rear door.

It fits in the excursion with ease and the 3rd seat stays in but now that I see your idea having a flat box with drawer that fills the back would be better. I could probably get away with 5inch OD height for what I need to hold. Might have to measure that tomorrow for fun.

 

The main reason for the height is to be able to hold my helmet and some of the cases (inspection camera, etc.)...a nice side effect will be I can mount the amplifiers, power inverter, etc.

I think I'll get the MDF and SuperStrut tomorrow to start the outer box. Do you guys think it (MDF) will be strong enough for the sides, or should I use pine? I'm thinking the MDF will be strong enough for the tops and bottom (expecially since the bottom fo the drawer will be helped by the 9 roller bearings). The last box I made was all plywood and pine, and I've never built anything out of MDF before.

 

My needs are much less than yours, my current box has a come-a-long, some tow straps, a 2inch hitch slug, some $1 rain poncho's and a few band aids. I've been finding depth would be more handy in this vehicle (with 3rd seat installed) than height.

I've built a few sub boxes out of mdf, properly braced it can hold a lot if you are talking 3/4 or 1 inch. I would not use it for the top in your design however, too wide of a span if you put any serious weight on it thats not distributed (I'm guessing you won't be doing any sort of support down the center). If the mdf sat on the "ribs" you are going to put in for tie down's that might be sufficient support so it doesn't bend too drastically.

You would have to put a fairly heavy object in the middle to get 3/4 and more so the 1inch to bend though so depending on your projected use you might be ok, just don't throw a transmission right on it.

2 Drawers and a center support would near eliminate that problem and allow for a little thinner wood.

MDF that thick is fun to cut too.

These are pricey but interesting thought:
Cargo Caddy for <br>Truck, Van and SUV <br>Police SUV Organizer

my .02 when I should be in bed..

--Mike

 

Actually, if you take a look at that pic I'm going to run 5 strips of SuperStrut across (left to right) - span of 4 foot or less (one front, one rear and three spaced evenly between).

To make sure the MDF that rides between them doesn't bow too much, I'm thinking of running another one down the middle attached to the SuperStrut and anchored along the back wall of the box. I figure if the MDF tries to flex it will hit the strut that runs front to back - that strut will distribute the weight to the ones that run left to right. SuperStrut claims to hold 1700 lbs, so I'm hoping that will hold anything I try to put back there (not going to be moving engines or transmissions, just our SAR gear, crap from HomeDepot/Lowes, etc.).

Do you think that will work, or should I go with pine for the top pieces?

Thought of that and if I find too much flex on the roof I'll tweak the design, but I only found enough linear slides to make one box. If it comes down to it I'll find some more.

Uh oh...a table saw or circular saw isn't going to work?