The super strut might do it then, I saw it in the design but it didn't register.

As for cutting, either should work with a good sharp blade, just don't expect it to be like going through warm butter :>

I cut 1inch with a milwaukee circ saw, it made it with patience, my little $100 table saw did not like it at all.

 

Uh oh...my Skil saw and Delta table saw may not survive. I know HomeDepot/Lowes will give you one cut for free...wonder if I give them my cut list if they'll cut everything (for a small fee of course).

 

I'd be careful about letting a Lowes/Home Depot associate cut anything to "dimension" if I were you. You do want your case to be square especially if you're installing a drawer and slides.

If you plan on covering the case you may want to check out AdvanTech subfloor sheathing. Much stiffer/stronger than MDF and very stable. Also instead of glue use PL Polyurethane Construction Adhesive on the joints. Just don't get it on your hands.

 

Dude, I know the feeling.

 

Pretty funny! Actually the stuff stains your fingers and takes a few weeks to wear off. Girlfriend shuns all advances till the paws look clean again.

 

FWIW!! I had a WeatherGuard box in my old Tahoe. It had four individual pull out drawers and fit the open space snug. It was designed for the Chevy. I did not have or use a third row seat in the"ho". When I bought the X the WeatherGuard was too short without the third seat and too long with the third seat. I could not find a WeatherGuard box that would fit so I built one from cabinet grade plywood and strong full length slides. It also had 4 individual drawers. It was a good bit cheaper and quieter than the metal box but a taller box with similiar usable space. I keep everything from a 4lb hammerand wrenches to golf ***** and clothes.

 

"I thought as I built it I would use a "lift top" more than the drawer, but as I created more usable space by hiding my tools in the box, I started using that space. Soon after I couldn't open the lift top since it had stuff on it. "

Good point Robert....hadn't thought of that.....I'd have the top loaded down in no time. It would be completely unaccessable on a trip with gear stacked on it

 

I ripped out everything and made two storage units which are great for camping with a 6000 watt power invertor.. I can remove one to install either the 2nd or 3rd row seats if I need to by removing four bolts.

 

Where did you source your slides? The longest I have found are about 22".

 

Wow!! That's huge

 

Try Outwater Hardware in Totowa NJ!

http://www.outwaterhardware.com

 

Got the wood and SuperStrut from HD today. Decided on ply instead of MDF for the top and bottoms and pine for the sides (11 1/4" for the box, 9 1/4" for the drawers). I already have the slides (22" linear slides that I can but up against each other to make a total slide of about 43 inches).

I had HD cut the ply to 4' 7" so I can trim and make the cut square (their machine was about 1/8" out of square on a cut at 4' 7").

Today I cut out two areas for the front mounting (will use the aft third seat mount points). I think for the rear mounts I'll use the two built in tie down points on the floor. I think I'll just pull them off and use longer bolts/washers. I also cut the 5 SuperStrut braces that will run left-to-right...I need to clean up the rough edges tomorrow. I used a 5" hand held wheel cutter so the edges were not 100% square, but I was losing light.

Wood:



Here are some shots of the SuperStrut and how the tie downs will work. They sell lugs that are 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". I picked up two bags of 1/4" (10 total) and the shortest eye bolts they had. You can see the spring that keeps the lug up tight against the SuperStrut, and you can see how the lug is cut so you can drop them in and turn them 90 degrees to get them to stop spinning, letting you tighten the eye bolt, jam nut or both:


I may actually cut the springs off - if you try to slide them the spring pops through the pre-drilled holes. Since I will be able to reach all of them (not like they are mounted 15 feet up) I don't really need the function that the spring gives me.

Here is a shot of it mocked up...the firring strips represent the top plates that will ride between the struts. What looks like washers under it is the spring compressed:


My only worry is that the entire outer box may end up being just a bit tall. I may need to make the entire box shorter a bit. I'll put the outer box together and try getting the spare out. I think I can just lift it straight up then tilt it inboard:



Does anyone know if I need to cut some ventilation holes for the jack compartment? The rear heater fan is back there, but I don't know if I need to allow for airflow or if it will be OK sitting as is...the box will sit about 1/4" away from the side.

 

If the box is sealed, there wouldn't be any reason to put a vent or grille in the side of the cabinet, as the rear unit won't be pulling air from there.

 

That's what I was wondering...wasn't sure why the compartment lid had holes if it didn't pull air into it. Technically the box won't be sealed since the pre-drilled holes in the SuperStrut will let air in and out.

 

The door to the heater blower does pull air in, if the cabinet will have airflow from another area I would put a sizable vent at the jack compartment side and a matching one else where.