Ok, first the specs:

1990 F-150 XLT Lariat
5.0L 302ci Gasoline
AOD Overdrive Transmission
99,500miles +- 10miles
3.55:1 rear end
8.8" Differential
K&N Filtercharger Air Filter
Dynomax Muffler(No idea which, bought it that way)
Dual Tanks

I recently moved from Houston, Texas to Northern Indiana for school. Don't ask. The truck is fine on the way here. Now, it's been about two months, and the weather begins to change. This truck hasn't ever seen snow,like me. There is this squealing sound once I put it in drive and begin to go,but after a while, it goes away. I guess the engine warmed up. SO I check the oil about 1.5weeks after this began happening, and the oil's a bit low. So I put in a quart, and drive it around a bit. The sound has mysteriously disappeared. Which worries me. Why would oil help stop what i thought was belt squeak from the weather? problem 2: the truck, after a 80 mile round-trip to a larger city, begins to shift funny. I was worried that my engine braking(stoplight drags) may have caused some premature failure of my torque converter. The engine would not shift on its own out of 1st unless I got it to high rpm's like 4200+. Or if it revved up to the same rpm's and i pulled the shifter from D to 1 and then popped it back,it would shift. It had the same problems from 2nd to third. So i took it to the ford dealership. They said the linkage was too tight and thought i was going faster than I really was. He adjusted it from 44 ft-lbs to 32, but I can't be sure of that. He then drained the tranny fluid and the torque converter and replaced the filter and the fluid. He then ran it and he said it was greatly improved and charged me $160. I drove it and it improved some, but not enough for 160 dollars. So I turn the truck on now after it's cooled and it does approximately the same thing. what could be doing this, the weather, the linkage keeps tightening or loosening or what? has anyone heard of this problem?


Jad

 

Weather does play havoc with sensors. Take it someplace and have a code scan done it may turn up something.

 

If it only makes these sounds while the truck is in gear and not while sitting still in park or neutral, then the problem is in the tranny. I'm not 100% on this but it sounds like your trans fluid pump (which is what builds up pressure for shifting), is going bad. And these are usually linked directly to the torque converter, so drag racing could be to blame. My advice would be to take it to a trans shop NOT THE DEALER. These guys rarely have a real trans mechanic there. A real shop can check the trans pressure before removing it, and won't just change your fluid and say "TA-DA!"

 

Acually it's running much better lately. I don't feel guilty doing donuts. The transmission sticks a bit in secnd at around 34-45mph before it goes from ~2700rpm down to 1600. The 90 F-150s, are they roller cam blocks, and if so, what cam works with SD better(no, I won't change). I know around 114 LSA and 220/226 at .500 is workable, but i'm not quite sure of those numbers. I need plenty low end torque so i can kill the hondas off the line, but i want to keep my high end where it's at or higher, because i can still do 112 MPH and probably more. I just used time and road signs to figure that out. Also, can i get a higher speedometer anywhere? i don't want one that looks like these "monster tachs" that sit on top of the dash. I want it like stock. Because it just goes past 85 and keeps going...
Next, I plan to get the kenne bell supercharger kit later on, with the optimodule and boost-a-pump adjustable fuel regulator. that, combined with a timing retard from msd should run well without knocking. I want to get these GT-40 Turbo Swirl Heads that are 50 state legal and add 40 horses off the bat. They are aluminum and weigh 25 lbs each less than the stock irons. ANyone heard of these, used them? i wanna know how well they do. any other suggestions would really help. i want to make this truck break records(besides weight). I have high hopes, and hopefully soon, a high-paying job. Anyone hiring in Northeast Indiana?


90 F-150 XLT Lariat
2-tone Paint
100,151 miles(and still kills stock civics, preludes, and celicas)
top recorded speed: 112mph
5.0 EFI Speed density/ bone stock(not for long)
AOD (perhaps a new B&M Holeshot 12-inch TC in its future)
8.8 w/3.55s (will 3.73's get me off the line and give me higher top speeds?)
dual tanks, extended cab, short bed, all the goodies
still runs like when i got it(at 86,000)

 

I forgot, sorry, does anyone know why this thing won't spin the wheels unless it goes around turns(usually right turns)? I've seen pics with trucks like mine spinning from a dead standstill. What's up with that? I want my truck to be able to do that? is that higher torque, a new bumpstick, what?

 

If you are gonna do all this stuff be smart and go with a MAF conversion on your truck. Sure it costs more than speed density but, it is far easier to tune and deal with.

1990 is a hydro lifter block, no roller lifters. Get a 214/220 cam, better low end.

A KB blower will cost way, way more than building a stroker motor like myself. Get a 351, make it into a 392 with a $300 Scat crank. Uses stock 5.955" rods, and 1.61 comp height pistons from a 5.0. Crank and treated rods will be good for about 600HP with ARP hardware.

GT-40 aluminum heads are m'kay. Go with a set of AFR 165's for up to 331" and 185's for up to 408". They are made in sniffer friendly version too. Those AFR's will make far more power and cost about the same. Or Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads.

Your TV limit cable is probably needing to be adjusted. After I had my AOD built w/ TransGo shift kit, it would ##### at like 3700RPM. In about 30min that cable was adjusted and shift at 3200 1-2, 2800 2-3. That and your AOD is probably about to grenade like mine did.

B&M makes good shifters and that's about it. Get a Precision Industries Stallion converter. They kick ***. I used a 2600 in my TownCar. Or Edge Racing Converters www.edgeracingconverters.com

3.73:1's will yield more stop light speed, but less top end. Go with a 4.10:1 for more difference. You can't spin you back tires because you don't have the power. You'll need to be in "Bolt-on City" like myself.

My setup is gonna be: 392, AFR 185's, Edelbrock 351 EFI intake, 100 shot, Built AOD, a bit more stall on the converter (probably 2600), 4.30:1's w/rebuilt trac-lok (going in over Thanksgiving), and all the boltons. Half of that stuff I already have.

HOPE THAT HELPS SOME

 

With mods like that you had better plan on getting a VERY high quality lower unit FIRST and foremost. Which means at the very least a well build engine with forged pistons. Without a solid base, there is nothing to grow on. Just my opinion though. At 100,000 miles its on the downward side and adding a bunch of performance stuff, especially a supercharger is big no no. Also, with this amount of HP potential, you will need a new high performance AOD and high stall torque convertor in order to handle the power.

You may be able to get by with just the GT 40 heads, but allow for exta money in special headers, differnt cam, lifters, head gasket, intake gaskets, etc. As long as your in there, you really should do both a cam and head swap. Separate, the gains are far less than they could be wth matching equipment.

 

Good call Gamehunter. Without a solid base, all those mods like heads/cam are a waste. You can get a new 306 w/ forged pistons and ARP hardware for about $1000 or less. Same goes with a 351W.

I'd just rebuild a 351W to a 358W for a really tight budget and get some GT-40 (Cobra or P) heads. Easily make 350+HP. Will cost the same as your 302 rebuild. With that 351W, you'll need longer headers since the deck is 3" higher and a different intake manifold.