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Radiator pressure test

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #1  
91dirtydiesel's Avatar
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Radiator pressure test

I've been noticing coolant on the ground...no obvious leaks or streams when hot..so I hooked up the pressure tester. Stock cap is 13psi? The radiator would leak from the top rail that goes around it at 5psi...

I know dropping the cap pressure wouldn't be a safe fix so should I try and JB weld it or just find a repair shop? It's aluminum BTW

Should this test be performed when hot or cold? Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Top rail on mine just gave up too. Thats kinda scary.....

Can't you have the aluminum welded? I would think a shop could do that for you rather cheap.

I got a new brass one from advance for $280. The shop who pressure tested mine said $320 to fix or $630 for new one, I said neither. $280 new kinda beats that.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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Yea that sucks, just called Local radiator shop said it woul be cheaper to replace mine, he said most likely under the plastic is leaking so they would take it off and weld on an aluminum top...

Are those types easy to take the top off?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
buy the brass/copper ready rad 432194 radiator for $246.39 online at advance auto.
(verify your truck uses this size rad first though of course.)

its posted online for 305 and change (at time of this post) then you could go to shopping cart and enter "VISA" for $50 off.BUT there's a better coupon for this,for 20% off which equals a little over $60 off.so enter "P20" instead to see your total under 250 bucks for the brass and copper rad.
here you will see its lifetime warrantied as well.you'll never need to buy a second one.
have it shipped free or pick it up in the store.

don't forget to scrap your old rad!!! this should help reduce your final cost down around 200 bucks.
lifetime warranty.
you'll never have to pay for another one again.
you get what you pay for with them cheap aluminum rads on ebay and such.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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So I tried to do the "quick" fix.. Clamping the tabs down more to hold it tight better....seemed to work until I got to one that had visible bubbles coming up...which then resulted in it opening further. I took some JB weld mixed it with 1 or 2 tbsp of thinner and poured it around the top rim...tomorrow well know if that works.

In the mean time since Im dealing with coolant.... Doing a flush and coolant filter ( fil 4019 ).

Few quick questions on that... Got the napa 4071 filter with 4 units of SCA. Also got napa kool. How many gallons is our coolant system? (good old iPhone not performing search well)
Says for some systems the napakool is not needed? I'll pick up the low silicate green antifreeze and add distiled water. I know this has been talked about a bunch but phone not doin good lol

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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:43 AM
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4 gallons coolant, 4 gallons water.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
lifetime warranty.
you'll never have to pay for another one again.
you get what you pay for with them cheap aluminum rads on ebay and such.
Autozone also offers them for lifetime warranty, I am sure that O'reillys and the other chains do as well. They are made by Spectre.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #8  
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No luck on the radiator, holds pressure a bit better but starts to leak at 8psi. Has anyone ran a "visteon" radiator before? Looks like I'll be getting the one that fordf250 suggested. It's a bit more now, 30$ or so.

I weighed my old radiator (non aluminum) it's at about 48.5 lbs. local scrap yard takes anywhere from 1.20-1.70 per pound. So I'll get some cash back there.

Got the coolant filter installed so that's a good thing!

Quick question, can any harm come from leaving the block empty outside at 25*f? Only openings are at the hoses.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by fellro86
Autozone also offers them for lifetime warranty, I am sure that O'reillys and the other chains do as well. They are made by Spectre.
Hey didn't see this, there is a autozone 10 minutes from me, was the spectre one black or silver? I see they have 2 different
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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Most are aluminum any more, but you still sometimes find the brass if the stock hasn't been depleted yet. From looking at the site, the silver one is the deeper one, and is aluminum with welded tanks. The black one is still brass, but is not as deep, also not quite as common. If you have factory air, you will have the aluminum one.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fellro86
Most are aluminum any more, but you still sometimes find the brass if the stock hasn't been depleted yet. From looking at the site, the silver one is the deeper one, and is aluminum with welded tanks. The black one is still brass, but is not as deep, also not quite as common. If you have factory air, you will have the aluminum one.

the welded tanks was the selling point, the one i have with the plastic tops wasnt working out.... i got the spectra cu1165 (aluminum) for $305 and it does have manufacture lifetime warranty will be here tomorrow at 3!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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Been a long time since I bought a rad for one of these....and hope it's a long time yet! Have two decent spares right now, and if I retire the dually this winter, that will add a third to the collection. Fortunately everything I have is copper/brass too, so they should last a long time.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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while i have all my coolant out i was thinking about a new block heater as mine doest work... anyone have any luck from the orielly Zerostart 3100043 - Frost Plug Heater | O'Reilly Auto Parts ? i have another one laying around but i dont have a cord for it. might just yank the cord im using ad plug it in see if it gets hot
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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They do ok, but I would try plugging in the one you have to see if it works before yanking it out. That is the only heater I have on my 86.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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Got the new radiator! Got it in, system flushed rad draining block draining now for the filter I'm doing the inline setup, have the inlet come from the head? Or from the water pump? Then to the heater. Does it matter what way?
 
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