Hey folks. this is my first post! i have read all through these forums but didnt find my scenario exactly, so i'll ask for help

anyways, i bought a 1989 f-150 custom, 4.9L I6, 5sp, 4wd with a decent body but lots of miles - 209k. it was cheap and i was excited. it drove great for the first month or so that i owned it.

so on a really hot day, in traffic, it started stumbling, no power. i got it pulled over as it died. waited a bit, called a friend, it started up. i got it home, running like a turd the whole way. the temp gauge was reading normal. it had plenty of coolant.

drove it the next day (and for the next few weeks) with no issue, so i figured it was just the heat. but then... out on a 70 degree day, it did the same thing.

the only common thng i saw was both times, i had parked it, gotten out for maybe 10 min, then drove it again, and on the second drive it acted up.

parts on this truck are amazingly cheap so i did a tune up - plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter. changed the ignition coil ad control module as well to eliminate the possibility of it not having spark

drove it again, and it did the same thing. borrowed a fuel pressure tester. i get 60 psi with key on, and 52 psi when idling. of course when i drove it with the fuel gauge on, i had no problem.

i did find what i think is a vacuum line (has a Y in it, connects near the throttle body) just hanging loose, but i dont see where it is supposed to plug at the other end i dont feel any vacuum on the line at idle

what would people recommend as the next step to diagnose this? i feel like i have run down both fuel and spark sides... good fuel pres, all new sparking equipment, so ... i'm stumped. makes it hard to take the truck out and use it when i'm not sure if i'm gonna make it home or not...

thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post!

-Dave

 

Yea pretty good start next thing you should do is run the self test see if it gives you anything go on.

Reader is easier and can be had cheap but also can do with a jumper wire/count flashes.

I included the instructions in case you're not aware how to do so ("89" your truck will throw 2 digit codes).

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My money is on a bad PIP aka stator inside the distributor: Ford Fuel Injection » Stator (RPM) VERY common problem, right behind the infamous TFI failures due to heat..

Pull the codes as danr1 suggested, then proceed accordingly.

 

thanks folks - I'll do the flash count test in the AM and see where we stand =)

if it's the PIP as suggested, is that a part I can purchase?

took a quick look at rock auto and didn't see it

-dave

 

Napa for example has them listed,

Echlin Part Number: ECH MP711

No price given but other sites I found it suggest going rate at about 20 bucks.

Image here, http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/lo...7_205642_2.gif

You really gotta run the self test first though.

Might be the PIP however your symptoms tend suggest the ignition module rather then it least to me based on what you said so far (if I had pick one of the two). "PIP" tends be one of them parts works then doesn't anymore and not so much effected by heat. However might be as simple as a iffy ground effecting its function.

The ignition module is effected by "heat", over heats stops working cools down works again. IIRC the ICM on your "89" its still mounted to the dizzy. Later models they moved the ICM to the inner fender and on a heat sink for just that reason.

 

The vacuum hose with the y in it goes from your throttle body down to the charcole canister

 

Look under: Distributor Ignition Pickup

My experience with the PIP is it is very heat sensitive. Works just fine when cold, acts up or completely quits when hot. Let it cool off, the cycle starts all over again. The Haynes manual has a very good ignition troubleshooting procedure. I suggest you pick you up.

Before jumping the gun and throwing parts on it, please follow through and check for codes.

 

hi all. sorry for the late reply. I tried to do the engine light counts, but didn't seem to be able to get the test to work - stayed as a solid light the whole time. so i bought the OBD reader and the distributor ignition pickup. i still can't get over how cheap stuff is for this truck. 20 bucks for the pickup and 25 for the reader. now if i could just get it to run right!

ok ... so the reader gave me two codes. 1) was a code 67, and 2) was a 31 (continuous)

any advice from here, or should i just go ahead and change the stator switch?

thanks!

-dave

 

Code 21 = ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts. I suspect the engine was not warmed up before running the KOEO/CM tests.

Code 67 = Neutral safety circuit failure. I think you need to have the clutch pushed in when running KOEO tests on a manual trans. truck (may be required on the I6 only).

So the codes, look relatively clear. If the truck was warmed up, then you may have a bad ECT sensor or wiring problem.

 

i fired her up and ran for about 5 min. brought the temp to the bottom of the "normal" range before running the test. i was hoping that was enough

and yes... i didn't hold the clutch, so that may have caused the other

bummer that i didn't get any codes to give me a further lead. i'll change the stator and see how she does. i have to get it through an emissions test this next week!

-Dave

 

Hey everyone -

update. been slow getting stuff done, but i think i'm moving forward now

I ordered the PIP and it arrived late last week. I pulled the dizzy out of the truck and disassembled it (removed pin, pulled the gear off, put the new PIP, and reassembled). all went good (a little too good), until I realized i hadn't noted the direction the rotor was pointing...i had recorded it relative to the housing, but not relative to the truck.

anyhow, decided i needed to find top dead center and start over. Finding the mark on the harmonic balancer was ... difficult. And even after i found it, it didn't line up with the markings on the block.

I called an expert (uncle). He was able to come today and he showed me another spot to read the timing from the other side of the truck. (Reading through an opening?)

anyways - the truck lives again. we set the timing (pulled the pin, set it to 10BTDC) i ran it and drove it around the block today. i will take it for its emmissions and safety inspecitons monday and see how she does...

i'm starting to enjoy working on the truck, and not being so intimidated by 80s elecronics/emissions, etc.

and i'll keep you guys updated. hopefully the truck runs good for a while, at least. if she dies during driving again, i'll let you know and see where i go from here! thanks for the help!

-dave

 

Seems to be a success so far!

Put about 50 miles on the truck and it's running fine (all with dead tags and no inspection... i'll get into that later)

I timed it to 10btdc by the book, but the truck felt weak and i could make it backfire under low RPM, heavy throttle

i reset it by ear to a little more advanced - prob closer to 15. the truck is stronger than ever and is doing good

took the truck for inspection and passed the safety, but failed emissions. it passed the readings, but failed for gas caps and evap system leak

changed the caps.

can't register the truck til this is fixed...

at my carbon cannister, i have broken/missing hoses/connectors and am sure that's where the problem is. problem is, I don't know what the stock set up is. I wonder if someone with an 89 f150 4.9 could post a pic of the carbon cannister to show me the proper setup? i believe i am missing connectors?

i looked at the haynes manual, but it doesn't help on this one

i wonder if anyone knows the proper name fr the connectors so I can buy new ones? (or if anyone has some they would be willing to part with for a few bucks?)

does anyone have a diagram so i can make sure everything is hooked up right?

thanks all!

-Dave

 

Heres a pic of my '89 straight 6. Only pic of the engine I have, if you need a better one, just let me know!

 

John - Too cool! Thanks -

could you post for me 2 more - 1 looking from the right front corner (the other side of the engine bay) and one looking down on top of the carbon cannister (just behind the radiator). i'd like to see if i have everything back in the right places.

Today i tried to rig up something to reinstall my carbon cannister. it appeared that the old one did not use either of the two ports on top, but two small ports near the front of the truck, both of which had the old connectors broken off in them. the vacuum hose diagram under the hood seemed to agree with taht. The hoses were very deteriorated. I went and bought some new hoses - some 3/8, some 1/4 and some 1/8... ridiculous that they used different sizes everywhere... and ran them across the compartment, and rigged up some new connectors with a prpoerly sized piece of plastic tubing. connected to the canister with rtv to keep them in place and air tight.

i used my code reader and again got code 31 (EGR valve). replaced the sensor ($30) and code 31 is now gone! i only get code 67 now since i cant' run the test and hold the clutch at the same time.

feeling good! I think i'll try to go pass my emissions inspection again tomorrow

-Dave

hopefully i can pass the test now.

 

Here you go!









If theres anything else, just let me know!