Well, it begins this weekend: The 360 is coming out, and the 7.3 is going in. It'll take some custom work, a fair bit of time, plus a rented garage, but before the end of the year I'll have a running diesel bump.
The engine is sold, and being put on a tight schedule like this is going to make things interesting.

 

Glad you rented a garage space, and not doing it on the driveway.

guluk




John

 

Jared, good luck! Look forward to seeing pics of it done!

 

Well, engine is out, sold parts have been shipped off and now I'm starting on the engine compartment prep. I'll be cleaning the frame, pulling the driveshaft and getting the old clutch linkage out tonight.
I have a bet with a co-worker that I can drive it to work on the 19th. I have lunch on the line this time,

 

Progress pics:


And the engine about where it'll end up:


The fuel filter and alternator will be very close to th hood, but should be ok. The transmission yoke is actually in the exact same spot as it was with the old T18, I just need the correct yoke on the driveshaft to fit it.
I am also having to get a bit creative with the clutch master cylinder mount, it looks like I'll have to put it to the left of the brake booster, in a pretty awkward spot.

 

you have 3 2x4s under the motor that's 6"why not drop the motor to 4" and give yourself a little more hood clearance ?

 

Actually it's 4.5"- A modern 2x4 is only 1.5x3.5, I have seen some as thin as 3.25".
The problem is the rear sump oil pan. As it is, there is questionable clearance between the steering linkage and pan. It looks like at full compression and full left lock, the thick point on the drag link where the left tie rod takes off will just graze the bottom of the pan.
I would love to drop the engine down about two inches, but that simply won't happen without extensive oil pan or steering mods.

 

Is this a F100 or F250? You didn't say here, and I'm just curious.

Yeah, the rear steer setup does require a bit more effort to fit the engine, compared to the 80+ front steer and/or 4wd front steer. Plus, I think the engine was actually set back about 3" in the 80+ trucks. I know my 80 F150 has a ~3" shorter driveshaft than the 74, and both have a C6 trans. It could be the trans length, but they really look to be the same.....

I'm following this thread, as I have access to a 7.3 IDI/ZF combo. Swapping into the 80 would be much easier, but the 74 would be rather unique. Of course, the 80 would also make fitting a turbo a bit easier, since there are kits made to fit that bodystyle.....

Not sure if you could get away with setting the engine back a little, due to firewall clearance, but that could help clear the steering and allow a little lower engine position.

 

I'm kinda stuck on where I can put the engine without major modifications to the cab. I'd have to go back another three to four inches to clear the steering, and only have about 1.5" behind the heads. I'm going to have to do major firewall mods on my Courier when I put the Mercedes diesel in that, but I'd like to keep this one fairly stock.
It remains to be seen if the tunnel cover will fit over the ZF or not, it's close but it looks like the shifter is in the same general location.

 

Something has to go very wrong very soon- This whole thing is just dropping together. Even the speedometer cable end fits right in the hole on the ZF.
I'm having to get a little creative with the throttle pedal and clutch master cylinder, but nothing too major. There are nice big open flat spots to mount this stuff in useable locations. I was worried I'd have to use an aftermarket master cylinder and mount it upside down under the dash or something, but the stock on will work fine.
I have a bet with a co-worker that I will drive this to work on Monday the 19th. So far, I'm on track to drive it home on Saturday.

 

Did you fab your own engine mounts?

 

Nice!

Speaking of engine mounts, make them from scratch, or start with later model diesel towers?

I might have accidentally found a cheap 7.3L. I called a buddy about borrowing his press for an axle bearing, and he told me he had been looking for my number. One of his customers is looking to sell a (very) beat up, but good running 90? F250, 7.3 C6. Trans went out just 2-3 weeks after having new injection pump installed. Same buddy happens to have a 2wd diesel ZF laying in a corner of the shop, and is the guy who rebuilt my current C6 a few years back.
Who knows, I might be tackling a similar swap in the near future, but in an 80 F150....

 

The perches are a mix of custom fab and the stock 88 perches. Basically, I started with the stock 88 perches bolted to the stock 7.3 mounts, then welded in steel pieces to fill the gap to the frame. It's rather hacked right now, but in the not so distant future it will get the cab swapped out, so I'll pull the engine and make more professional looking mounts then.
Swapping into an 80s truck would be a lot easier, but I would not put this engine in an 80 F150. Lighter frame to begin with, plus that is one of the swiss cheese frames, they punched a ton of holes to lighten them and as a result they are very weak. I would use an 83+ truck to start, and then you'd also have a clutch master cylinder or at least the place to put one.

 

Convert to GM hydro boost used on one ton 3500's as the diesel will have low vacuum to run a power booster. Much more compact and should fit in the stock location with an aluminum adapter for the three bolt GM unit to the four bolt firewall. It will have the same master cyl bolt pattern as a ford master and runs off the power steering pump.

Garbz

 

Didn't really want to bring it up here, but at least need to clarify a couple things...
Yes, the frame has holes in it to lighten it. But, they are not weaker structurally EXCEPT during an impact from a crash. They can fold over themselves at a hole location. Even the F350 frames were done this way. People were scared these were weaker, so ford dropped the holes about 81. I doubt the weight savings was worth the added cost of punching the holes, which I suspect had more to do with dropping them than safety concerns......
As for starting with an 83+, that would would have another drawback. Ball joint I-beams. An 80 still has king pins. The same ones used on F250's in fact.
As for the hydraulic clutch master, it can be added to an earlier cab, just need to get the firewall reinforcement plate. If the 83+ cab hasn't had one installed, it would also need that done. Not even sure I would go ZF, since the C6 would work pretty well with my current axle ratio. Might have to drop to a lower gear for a ZF.
6.9/7.3 swaps, even cummins swaps, have been done on trucks with the "swiss cheese" frame without issues. The holes start well behind where the engine's weight resides.

I would consider swapping a 6.9/7.3 into the 74, but it has special meaning, part of which is the current 390 with full OEM GT spec internals "hidden" inside a truck block/heads. Perhaps someday, when the 390 is done, and dad is no longer with us. Which is why I am following the build with a keen interest.

Sorry for the sidetrack. I hope to hear you have it running soon.
Speaking of frame weaknesses, check yours around the steering gearbox mounting holes. I just repaired the 74's frame, from what I've been told is a somewhat common issue of cracking in this location. More common on power steering equipped trucks, but not strictly so.