Rough Idling Problem plue a Misc Question
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Rough Idling Problem plue a Misc Question
I have a '92 F250 4x4 with the 7.3 Idi. over the past couple of months while driving and after startups(warm and cold) the Truck starts to idle very roughly, some times to the point that the truck is shaking. and the only way to bypass the roughness is i need to keep my foot on the accelorator holding my rpms at about 1100-1300rpms. i looked over the truck Bleed the fuel lines of any air. started the truck back up and truck ran fine untill i refilled the fuel Tanks.
When i started the truck back up ran for a little while parked it for the night and started the truck the next day it started to rough idle again... had my mechanic look over the fuel lines to make sure everything was tight cause i had the Forward tank replaced. he found nothing. any ideas on what the issue is?
When i started the truck back up ran for a little while parked it for the night and started the truck the next day it started to rough idle again... had my mechanic look over the fuel lines to make sure everything was tight cause i had the Forward tank replaced. he found nothing. any ideas on what the issue is?
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
When was the last time that thing had a tune up....if ever?
What's the mileage on it?
Any smoke when it's running rough?....what color if so?
When it runs rough, does it sound like a knock or is it missing?
What's the mileage on it?
Any smoke when it's running rough?....what color if so?
When it runs rough, does it sound like a knock or is it missing?
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Last time changed the oil, and filters was about 5k miles ago back in september. problem started to occur mid october, the truck is at 149,xxx miles right now.
Blows out blueish smoke and smells like unused diesel.
and it sound like its misfiring.
Blows out blueish smoke and smells like unused diesel.
and it sound like its misfiring.
Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
The returnline kit is actually called an injector install kit, and consists of the hose that ties all the injectors together, the plastic caps on the injectors and the orings and the copper washers. You don't use the copper washers unless you change the injectors. It seems to me that some of the kits you buy today, if not all of them, have caps that are not of the same quality as the original ones. Any kit you buy, make sure they have viton orings, as the ones a lot of kits come with will not last long at all.
Anywhere in the fuel system from the pump to the ip and back, any tiny air leak will let your fuel leak back over night partially emptying your filter.
There is a member here that sells the return line kits and they come with the viton orings, and I belive he said they even come with the plastic fuel line gaskets,
His user name is typefour, you can buy them anywhere, but I know his has the viton orings.
Anywhere in the fuel system from the pump to the ip and back, any tiny air leak will let your fuel leak back over night partially emptying your filter.
There is a member here that sells the return line kits and they come with the viton orings, and I belive he said they even come with the plastic fuel line gaskets,
His user name is typefour, you can buy them anywhere, but I know his has the viton orings.
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now Dificulty wise on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to change the return lines? and what are these Codes i am reading about on injectors. and how do i find out what code Injector i have?
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Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
The codes on your injectors doesn't mean much, as far as I know all new replacement injectors are bb code, I know the a code haven't been available for years.
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Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
I don't know about a scale, but return line kits are not at all hard to install., just cut the new hose to the right lenghts and be sure to use vaseline or some good lube on the orings, make sure their are no burrs inside the caps to damage the orings too.
You always need to do them all at the same time, it will only take you a couple hours the first time.
You always need to do them all at the same time, it will only take you a couple hours the first time.
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new symptom that just occured today with the truck... It wont start at all now. I did not get the chance to put in the new Injector Install kit. When i went to start the truck this morning truck started rough(as usual) and then after 10 feet of driving Shutdown completely. havent been able to start it scince then any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Did it idle for a little while before you started driving.
Is it getting voltage to the fss.
Is it getting fuel.
is there any air in the fuel.
Is the starter spinning the motor fast enough.
We need a little help here.
Is it getting voltage to the fss.
Is it getting fuel.
is there any air in the fuel.
Is the starter spinning the motor fast enough.
We need a little help here.
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did not idle on its own need to keep pressure on the Accelorator to keepit running for 15 seconds.
couldnt tell on the voltage. it is getting fuel.
High possiblity of air in the fuel lines.
starter spins motor fast enough.
couldnt tell on the voltage. it is getting fuel.
High possiblity of air in the fuel lines.
starter spins motor fast enough.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
If you can see the diesel, its most likely leaking return lines. Could also be a loose injection line. Hopefully its not a broken injection line.
Install a return line kit like starmilt is saying. While you're doing that, it wouldn't hurt to put a charger on the batteries to make sure they're topped off. Also check the fss (fuel shutoff solenoid) to see if its getting voltage with the key on. It should click if you remove then replace the wire.
Install a return line kit like starmilt is saying. While you're doing that, it wouldn't hurt to put a charger on the batteries to make sure they're topped off. Also check the fss (fuel shutoff solenoid) to see if its getting voltage with the key on. It should click if you remove then replace the wire.
Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Pull the filter and see if it is full.
An air leak in the return line system will not cause one to stall after it has run long enough to work the air out and quit running rough, just a very few minutes. It will cause it too start for a few seconds then stall and be hard to restart, upon restarting it is normal for them to run rough until the air is worked out
An air leak between the tank and pump will sometimes cause one to stall. It will also cause one to surge and miss too without completly stalling.
Have you had it running long enough for it to smooth out, and driven it.
An air leak in the return line system will not cause one to stall after it has run long enough to work the air out and quit running rough, just a very few minutes. It will cause it too start for a few seconds then stall and be hard to restart, upon restarting it is normal for them to run rough until the air is worked out
An air leak between the tank and pump will sometimes cause one to stall. It will also cause one to surge and miss too without completly stalling.
Have you had it running long enough for it to smooth out, and driven it.