Yeah, I shoulda seen the issue sooner, I know. JK

I was pretty sure that I saw some white smoke when operating. I'll have to recheck that one to be sure once I run it again(truck is sitting in garage getting the parking brake up to par for inspection, waiting on parts). The white smoke only came after the rebuilt IP so I was thinking timing related? I am sure I don't see white smoke all the time though. And exhaust doesn't smell like it.

I don't hit 14 psi anymore, I should probably change my sig. The most I get is around 8-9psi right now with the intercooler at the intake hat. (looking into a DPS turbo pump)

I still have to run my truck now that its full to see how fast coolant is going.

 

These do not have a coolant recovery system, if you run up to temps to where the pressure lets the cap let some off, it is gone unlike care now a days.
The same if your cap gets a little weak, and lets pressure early, it is gone.

 

I did overheat it severely a couple time this year, I had to drive with no belt for like a mile.

So should I run a 16lb cap? Thats what the dealer gave me but thats for a PSD, I think it should be 13-7.

 

I doubt a 16 pound cap would hurt anything, these have a large cooling system and I can't actually remember overheating any of the ones I have owned, even towing more than heavy. lol

I can't imagine a scenerio, I wouldn't park mine and walk a mile if I lost the belts and knew it, that could very well be where your coolant went or caused whatever is making it lose coolant.
I have the computers set on my big trucks, to where I or any other driver doesn't have a choice, low on coolant = dead motor and overheat is the same.
I had my international in the shop and they changed the parameters so that it wouldn't kill the motor. I asked them why they took it upon themselves to change it, and they told me so that it wouldn't shut down and block traffic, they changed it back for free after a few choice words.

 

or just shut her down and wait for it to cool,even if that means taking all day to make it 1 mile.it beats risking an engine.otherwise,there's really no point in installing a temp gauge if your not going to listen to it.
always check the coolant level (once she cools down) after you've run her hot to make sure the level is still up.
sorry snapon,but you don't want it to happen again,cus that gets expensive real quick.
hopefully like star says,that she lost her coolant from the boil over and topping it back up is all thats needed.
but this is the exact purpose for a real temp gauge.so if you ever see 240F you can do something about it asap (hopefully you can alter your driving etc by any means necessary slightly before that) with everything else in the world at that time meaning nothing.

 

I have the factory temp gauge. It was pegged then I shut it down and let it cool, drove it some more, etc.

I did notice my valley kinda wet looking, it could be coolant, it didn't smell like anything.

 

Not to say you're wrong, but isn't that what the coolant overflow tank is? When the coolant heats up and expands it runs through the hose into the overflow tank. Then when the engine cools it sucks back in. I know for certain that mine works that way.
I do suppose that if you severely overheat the engine and the coolant, it might blow out more than the tank can handle and that would be lost coolant.

 

Tea cod you are right, my original idi didn't, but that is because it is in a 70's model body. I never needed it so never installed one, and I guess that is what I was thinking about.

 

OK guys, rad. was cracked. got a new one with lifetime warranty for $280.

 

Well that is good news, in a weird sort of way, it is way better than a head gasket.

 

Thats what I was thinking.

 

The hose between the overflow, and radiator used to blow off all the time, clamp or not till I replaced the cap with the psd one (Didn't pick it on purpose, was just the only one in the store). Also was always running low on me, has been good since. Likely gonna have to inspect my coolant soon. I hate dealing with rads...

 

lucky man!
fyi,
the cap i like to use:
Amazon.com: Stant 10329 Lev-R-Vent Radiator Cap - 13 PSI: Automotive

 

Too late, I ordered the standard stant cap. I thought that lever cap was for systems with no overflow? Or is it to release pressure if you want to take the cap off?

I got a ready rad. from advance, was $280 with your promo code, thanks.

 

ah thats good.yeah the one with the lever is just so you can release the pressure instantly if needed.just kinda handy.
your welcome.
the that rad works really good.better than my old stock one even.i think the larger 3 row is a better idea then older smaller 4 rows for some reason.works too good anyway,needed a winter grill cover (just to speed things up really lol.the t-stat gets her warm of course just slower.)

here ya go snapon,i can keep helping ya spend $ all day.
quick heat in the cab! increase fuel economy etc.keeps that cold wind out for probably a bit easier starting too? can't hurt anyway.
just have to hop out and take her off when she hit's 212F or so (fully open t-sat.) though i like to let her run warmer if she wants up around 220 or so.anything 237F or under is good.roast ya right out of the cab lol.
even leaving that on,with those two flaps open my e-fans can keep up with it! but then im frigging up fuel economy too far that way and play the fine line between medium to high speed e-fans,and keeping temps up/wind out lol.
so with a stock clutch fan,i guess what id do,is just wait until i heard the airplane taking off under the hood and pull over and take it off then (or just prior,whatever the gauge says to do.)
Amazon.com: FIA WF922-11 Winter Front and Bug Screen: Automotive