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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
I thought about that after my last post and checked. I saw some soot on the firewall so I think another order to clay is coming up. I will say they look like a B!t€h to change.
They are...... I have some pictures that might help if your going to replace the gaskets. PM me and Ill send them to you
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
I thought about that after my last post and checked. I saw some soot on the firewall so I think another order to clay is coming up. I will say they look like a B!t€h to change.
They aren't fun but if you have an extra set of hands it isn't to bad.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 05:28 AM
  #18  
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From: Plant City
Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
They aren't fun but if you have an extra set of hands it isn't to bad.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf
Thanks,

I have become VERY acquainted with your site. I found them last night and I will be making another order soon for the ceramic kit. I will prob do the boots as well just to make sure I get everything. I was also toying around with the idea of getting a van turbo which I think you sell the rebuild kit for that also correct?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:07 AM
  #19  
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I had exhaust leaks everywhere and replaced everything from block to turbo. I watched the boost response with my DP and that needle has a nice snap to it - then I have to look up to keep things under control. 65 MPH is 4PSI on the flat and a punch takes it right to 20, then it builds to 25 with more speed.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
Thanks,

I was also toying around with the idea of getting a van turbo which I think you sell the rebuild kit for that also correct?
Here is a link for the rebuild kit. It is the same for Early 99 - 2003 turbos including vans.

Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38 Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:16 PM
  #21  
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From: Plant City
Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
Here is a link for the rebuild kit. It is the same for Early 99 - 2003 turbos including vans.

Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38 Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit
Wonderful, for the van turbo would you also recommend the related items as well or are they just for the GTP38?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
Wonderful, for the van turbo would you also recommend the related items as well or are they just for the GTP38?
The van turbo is basically the same so it will take all the same bolts, orings and rebuild kits. Only difference is the turbine wheel size and housing.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 04:00 PM
  #23  
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Youll also need this to run a Van turbo Riffraff Diesel: 1.0 A/R 1.15 A/R Turbo Outlet Adapter
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #24  
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I also sent this to you in a PM but incase anyone else was wondering heres how I did it..........


Clays directions are much more detailed than my pictures


Disconnect both batterys!!!!
Pull everything away from the spyder, inter cooler tube, bootselectrical connections and pull spyder out



Disconnect the babys butt from the turbo via stupid clamp thats a PITA, disconnect the down pipe and remove your going to need it out of the way to tighten everything back up when your done. There are 2 bolts that hold the turbo on the aluminum pedistal, take them out and pull the turbo, you should end up having the same thing as in the picture here at this point



There are 2 bolts per side to pull the collecter off of the uppipes, DO NOT strip them!!! The best thing you can do before doing this job is to spray every bolt and nut down with PB Blaster at least twice a day for a week prior to starting. Heres a picture of the factory gaskets vs. the Felpro big difference in size



If you are installin a Van turbo you need to take the aluminum piece off and delete the EBP rod, theres 4 bolts holding it on, one is a PITA to get to, I dont have any pictures of me doing that but you need a 1/4'' NPT tap and plug, I also wrapped it up with thread tape to make sure there was no leaks. There are 2 Orings there make sure to put new ones in.





Van turbo vs stock turbo with adapter flange installed



Now reinstall everything in the opposit order, be sure to leave babys butt loose with new gaskets and bolts installed loose until everything is in place, then tighten everything up, youll have to get under the truck to tighten the the new gaskets but it makes life a lot easier. I drove about 100 miles then rechecked everything to make sure it was still tight.



Im gonna post all the pictures I took of the tear down and install in no order, if you have any questions feel free to ask

















I also installed reinforcement pleniums from Clay too, they are installed here, I would highly recommend them









If I left something out feel free to let me know and Ill explain
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #25  
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From: Plant City
Originally Posted by JOHN2001
Youll also need this to run a Van turbo Riffraff Diesel: 1.0 A/R 1.15 A/R Turbo Outlet Adapter
So my last question about he van turbo is basically it is better used for towing due to it keeping egt's lower but not really for play correct?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #26  
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From: Plant City
Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I also sent this to you in a PM but incase anyone else was wondering heres how I did it..........


Clays directions are much more detailed than my pictures


Disconnect both batterys!!!!
Pull everything away from the spyder, inter cooler tube, bootselectrical connections and pull spyder out



Disconnect the babys butt from the turbo via stupid clamp thats a PITA, disconnect the down pipe and remove your going to need it out of the way to tighten everything back up when your done. There are 2 bolts that hold the turbo on the aluminum pedistal, take them out and pull the turbo, you should end up having the same thing as in the picture here at this point



There are 2 bolts per side to pull the collecter off of the uppipes, DO NOT strip them!!! The best thing you can do before doing this job is to spray every bolt and nut down with PB Blaster at least twice a day for a week prior to starting. Heres a picture of the factory gaskets vs. the Felpro big difference in size



If you are installin a Van turbo you need to take the aluminum piece off and delete the EBP rod, theres 4 bolts holding it on, one is a PITA to get to, I dont have any pictures of me doing that but you need a 1/4'' NPT tap and plug, I also wrapped it up with thread tape to make sure there was no leaks. There are 2 Orings there make sure to put new ones in.





Van turbo vs stock turbo with adapter flange installed



Now reinstall everything in the opposit order, be sure to leave babys butt loose with new gaskets and bolts installed loose until everything is in place, then tighten everything up, youll have to get under the truck to tighten the the new gaskets but it makes life a lot easier. I drove about 100 miles then rechecked everything to make sure it was still tight.



Im gonna post all the pictures I took of the tear down and install in no order, if you have any questions feel free to ask

















I also installed reinforcement pleniums from Clay too, they are installed here, I would highly recommend them









If I left something out feel free to let me know and Ill explain
Thanks for the pics
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
So my last question about he van turbo is basically it is better used for towing due to it keeping egt's lower but not really for play correct?
Correct, the main purpose is to lower drive pressure, some people say it takes longer to spool but I didnt see a difference
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 10:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
So my last question about he van turbo is basically it is better used for towing due to it keeping egt's lower but not really for play correct?
It works great for play too. With the larger exhaust housing it really pulls strong on the top end. I've been using mine for play in the NHRDA for a couple years now.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #29  
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From: Plant City
Originally Posted by duck fan
It works great for play too. With the larger exhaust housing it really pulls strong on the top end. I've been using mine for play in the NHRDA for a couple years now.
I know I said one more question but heck why not. What is the max boost you guys run on it?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
I know I said one more question but heck why not. What is the max boost you guys run on it?
I can hit 27 psi in any tune other than stock
 
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