I just got the carb rebuilt.. 2bbl motorcraft...well I now it idles low like it wants to cut off when its first cranked..i gas it a little and its fine when i get it going.. so I feel like its probably just not getting enough gas? correct... so I just need to do some adjustment on the screw???

Next after I drive a while then stop and turn off the truck it stops and then almost starts back up again or doesnt fully quit for a sec then stops.. Is that a timing issue? or a carb issue?? I dont have a timing light but I have a feeling I just need to take it back to the guy that did it...

 

First issue: This sounds like a choke and/or fast idle issue. The engine will not run properly from a cold start without the choke adjusted correctly. And even if the choke is adjusted correctly, it still will not run properly if the fast idle linkage isn't in sync.

Second issue: This sounds like dieseling, which is caused by high combustion chamber temperatures in conjunction with a path for air (and hence fuel) to enter the engine. A lean mixture, steep timing curve, and high curb idle are often the main contributing factors. If this engine came with an EGR valve but it's gone (or doesn't work), then that explains the first two (pretty common issue if a PO rips out all the "smog junk" only to create problems).

If you paid someone to rebuild your carburetor and he returned the truck to you in this condition, then he doesn't know what he's doing.

 

The egr valve and all the smoq stuff is still intact. The guy I took it to is an ASE certified mechanic so I didnt think anything about it. The rough idle was slightly noticeable after I got it back. I thought that it was just the adjustment of a screw. The not cutting off didnt start until a week or so after I got it back. It has gotten worse over the last couple of days.

So here is my next question. How do I fix it?? Do I need to take it back to the same guy and ask him to fix it free of charge or try someone else or can I do it myself with little experience??

 

I forgot to say that I did adjust this...


I adjusted the screw where the spring is located. After the first original post I went and readjusted it back to its original state when the truck was returned to me. I then drove it around the block and it did not rumble when I cut it off. Could this have been my problem??

 

It's your call if you involve the original mechanic or not - you paid for a service, and you did not get said service. You took your truck in with a problem, the problem didn't completely go away, and then there were other problems that followed. ASE certified or not, the guy returned the truck to you in poor running condition. I'd highly recommend picking up a Chilton's or set of shop manuals and start reading to get yourself familiar with the basic principles behind carburetion and ignition so that you can gain a better understanding of what's happening before proceeding with working on it yourself and/or asking questions.

The item shown in your picture is the idle stop solenoid, and if it is adjusted incorrectly, the engine can diesel. The screw you adjusted sets the curb idle when the solenoid is energized. The screw should be adjusted such that the engine maintains the curb idle shown on the valve cover sticker when the engine is fully warmed up and running. When you shut the key OFF, the solenoid should retract and let the throttle plates close almost completely. It completely possible that the dieseling issue was a result of this being out of adjustment, but adjusting this could have been a band-aid fix for an underlying lean-running issue. If the engine pings at cruise (sounds like marbles rolling around in a coffee can as you accelerate), then this needs to be investigated further.

The cold-start issue (where it idles too low) is unrelated to the idle stop solenoid shown in the picture. With the choke engaged, the fast idle linkage maintains the idle speed, and the solenoid is effectively bypassed (does not reach).

The rough idle could be caused by a number of issues: improper mixture, low idle speed, vacuum leak, incorrect timing.

 

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I have gotten the dieseling issue taken care of. Now its the cold idle issue. When the truck is warm its fine.. idles fine..works great..its when its first cranked in the morning. First thing in the morning I have to apply steady pressure to the gas to get it warm or drive it around the block and its fine. What is the next step to fixing the cold idle issue.. I bought a Haynes auto manual but I am scared to adjust. I just need reaffirmation from you guys before I do anything.

 

Give this a read: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219