Hey everyone just bought myself an old f100 uni. Im trying to get her running right. I think my trouble is from the carb. Its a Holley 2bbl. I cant get it to idle without having the choke on at least a bit. the idle set screw is almost all the way in trying to keep it running without choke, but still wont keep it running. I thought it was a vaccume prob... sprayed carb cleaner over all seals and doesnt make the engine rev. there is only one vaccume line and that goes to the vac advance on the distributor. that doesnt seem to be leaking air. The engine runs great if i give her a little bit of thottle (more than just the throttle set screw will give me) however there still seems to be a bit off osclation (sp?) . anyway, the only thig that makes a difference is when I plug the little tube that points strait up (right next to the choke flap) sorry I dont know what its called or what it does but when i hold my finger over it, the engine revs right up (to an rpm consistant with where the idle set screw is) and the choke is not needed, but it will only run good like this for 6 seconds and then abruptly quit. Any help is greatly appreciated. Sory this is so lengthy. thanks.

 

Well I did search previous threads to see if my situation had already been addressed. I couldnt find anything, but what I did learn is that the manual choke also sets the fast idle at the same time. so perhaps its not that the choke is keeping it idling without stalling, but that the fast idle is keeping it just high enouph rpm's so that it doesnt die. like I said as long as i keep my foot on the pedal and keep her reved, i can drive the thing all day long with lots of power, but take my foot off the gas and she dies. However that being said it like to idle over 1000 rpm's anythin below 800 and it stalls. Should be idling at 550 ??? Thanks

 

I can't advise you about the carb.

I know that timing can cause that. You need to be careful with setting timing on a Y Block. The damper ring can slip. The damper ring has the timing marks on it. If the ring has slipped, it can look like it is timed right but, in fact, it is not. So, unless you are absolutely positive about the condition of the damper, assume it has slipped. Mark the distributors current position and adjust it to see if your problem improves.

 

Hey thanks for the info, I will try adjusting the timing. does anyone know if the timing can just go off by itself. The engine ran better when i first bought it and this problem has gotten progressivly worse..... I do know how to adjust the timming using the distributor, but I dont have much expirience. Any tips on doing this, I dont want to screw up the engine. Or should I just play with it and see if the engine sounds better? Thanks for your reply by the way.

 

If the distributor is not properly clamped, it can change. As the points wear, the timing changes. Have you checked the condition of the points? Worst case, the timing chain may have jumped a tooth.

Since it was running well at one time during your ownership, is there anything you have changed which may be causing this?

Hopefully someone can chime in about the carb. I guess I can start by asking which model Holey it is.

 

havnt done anything to it, the problem progressed on its own. within id say 200 miles I went from just barely a rough idle to having to choke it to keep it idling and also having to adjust the idle speed way up. Its been a progression so i dont think the timing chain jumped. Well i cant tell you excactly which carb it is, cause im not seeing it written on it. (just goes to show u how muh i know hehe) but anyway searching the web and looking at photos i believe it is a 2bbl 2100 with manual choke.

 

Well i borrowed a timing light and it showed to be really advanced, looked like a hair past 30 degrees. So I backed the timming back to 4 degrees (I think that is standard). The engine sure runs quieter, however it didnt fix my problem. I still have to keep the choke on to keep her idling, and it still osculates. Also now I accually have have to keep the choke on a bit more because sinse I have set the timing back it seems to idle at even lower of an rpm dispite the idle set screw being set all the way in. So that being said I also have another old carb that I know works properly. Im gonna throw that on there and see what happens. Any more info that anyone has is greatly appreciated!

 

The 2100 is an Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carb that was used on 1962/74 passenger cars, 1963/74 F100/350's, 1966/74 Bronco's and 1969/74 Econolines.

F Series trucks that used this 2100 carb have choke cables thru 1967, also available on certain 1968/69's.

 

Yeah thanks, i just figured that out. So I think its a 2300 or a 4150. But anyways I may have it figured out. All the signs point tward a vaccum leak. If I have to choke the carb, then that means its running to lean right? So theres not enouph vaccume to pull the fuel from the bowl. So I decided to flood the bowl by pushing on the primer lever (or whatever its called). Sure enough from one of the bowl screws out came a couple drops of fuel. I looked at one of those exploded view charts and realized that the screws have a small gasket around them. So today Im going to replace those gaskets and see what happens.

 

I think you either have a blown power valve or a plugged idle bleed restrictor.

On the top of the carb on each side of the brass tube you plugged with your finger, is there a pair on small brass jets? Those allow air into the main wells for idle and wide open throttle fuel/air balance. If one of those little brass jets is plugged you will have idle quality issues on a Holley.

A blown power valve will let fuel slobber in at will and you will have no idle quality.

Sounds like it's about time for a carb rebuild.
SPark

 

2300's and 4150's are not Holley carbs.

For a 1961/62 Holley carb, the parts catalog only lists the FoMoCo carb tag ID number (the tag was triangular shaped and attached to the air horn with one screw. It's prolly long gone by now).

The catalog does not list the Holley carb's model number, but it should be either cast into, or stamped on the carb's body.

As original = 1961/62 F100 292 Holley 2V.

C2TZ9A586L replaced C2TZ9A586K .. 2V Holley Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT185A) / Obsolete

C2TZ9A586L =

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894

GRIESEL MOTOR CO. in Okarche OK has 1.

EVANS FORD-MERCURY in Carrolton IL has 1 = 800-942-3616.
-------
C2TZ9A586K =

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 5 = 800-543-4959.
--------------------------------------------------------
B7TZ9A565A .. Economizer (Power) Valve - Included w/the carb kit / Stamped #65 (Motorcraft CE16) / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has 31.

KLIMESH AUTO SALES in Calmar IA has 50 = 563-562-3241.

 

Well i just rebuilt the carb. The seals were really bad, so i thought for sure rebuilding it would work. Well nothing changed. So now I am on to replacing the intake manifold gasket, then on to checking electrical i guess. I am going to do a compression check also. guess It could be a stuck valve. Any more suggestions? thanks a bunch for your replies.

 

Before doing things that cost money, like changing gaskets, do those that do not.
Compression test and maybe a leakdown test, perform a visual inspection of the ignition system, check valves. The 292 uses solid lifters; adjustment is not the same as a small block.
Troubleshoot before spending money.

 

Got it running!!!! after playing with the carb i just rebuilt, and also using an old redneck remedy of putting a table spoon of water in the carb to clear out carbon in the valves, low and behold she idles pretty good now and without choke. What it does do though is it tends to stall and idle way down if I break to hard or go down a realy steep hill. I figured the float needs to come up a bit. But I adjusted it up and that doesnt help much. and its at a higher level than its supposed to be...... could it be too high? do i need to adjust the float lower so that the bowl has less gas in it? Hey thanks again everyone for your help! I'll post some pics here pretty soon.