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i have a dremel with an assortment of bits and wheels...also a few chisels and a bfh. Am i going to have to replace the shaft and spindle most likely as well?
Get the AC675 socket, it's design will prevent it from sliding out when you apply any significant torque, then use your breaker bar (i know it's dumb to state this, but do it counter clock wise). If that doesn't loose the nut, you might be needing a pneumatic tool to turn that socket.
Someone must have tightened that thing real bad...
You can try something else, it won't sound intuitive, but you could give it a try: further tighten the nut while holding the hub in place and see if it stays in place, then try to back it again (loose it).
Yea if it got hot enough to weld the bearing to the inner nut, surely sounds like it did, you can bet the bearing race spun on the spindle welding itself to the spindle in the process.
Odds you'll get the hub off even if you do chisel the nut off are gonna be very slim.
I'd try a little first, deep in there yea but you can use a hammer and chisel to try and turn the nut, all I used for years until actually buying the socket.
Anyway sounds like time to cut your losses IE "time spent", get a cutting torch remove the hub so you can remove the spindle. If its as bad as all that and again yes sounds like it is, you're gonna need a new spindle, hub and bearings regardless at this point.
Work carefully with the torch, you shouldn't have any trouble saving axle shaft and brake rotor. The spindle is already toast and you will destroy the hub getting it off at this point.
Please try what i said before, as the alternatives will delay and probably make you spend resources, i just did this same work and i'm in the proccess of starting a write-up.
I'd try to cut the nut at 3 and 9 o'clock with the dremel then try to break the nut with a big punch and hammer. Then you get to deal with the inner race of the bearing, wich is probably also welded to the spindle. If you can get all the bearing rollers out I think the hub will come off, leaving the inner bearing and seal on the spindle with the outer race. The hub itself should be ok unless the outer race spun and the new one wont press in tight. If thats the case you could peen it to make the new one fit right if you dont want to buy a new one.
Really... i don't get why someone would have trouble with those nuts if they use the right tools... Even more if your inspecting every 3 months. Actually bearing failure point to one of 3: you're buying low quality or wrong size bearings, the hub isn't properly sealed and water is getting in, or you're under-tightening the nuts and the assembly is screwing the bearings.
Or over tightening causing overheating failure and the nut welding it self to the bearing I forget what the proper torque sequence is now but you torque to a point back it off then torque it to a lower number then the first time
A small chance the spindle is usable...Should come off fairly easy if you could try heating the nut first, till in a glowing state, with a MAPP fuel type hand torch from your local hardware store or a Home depot. Avoid heating the spindle as much as you can, then she should spin off using your breaker/cheater, without much effort.
Still stuck and broke and f@*#&d. Saving money to pay a shop bill to get it done. Heated it to the point of glowing..no luck. Cut it in three different places and beat it like a red headed step child and still no luck. Havent touched it in a week. Looking at the truck in the garage makes me want to scream.
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