buying an 86-96 f150/250, common problems to look for?
#1
buying an 86-96 f150/250, common problems to look for?
ok, i'm looking for a clean 86-96 f150/250 for a daily driver. 98% of the trucks i'm looking at are at 120k+ miles. must be fuel injected. what are some of the common problems in these years to look for? i'm looking mainly at 302/351 trucks with auto trans, no manuals. a non turbo deisel 250/350 isn't out of the question for the right price. thanks in advance guys.
#2
302 is worthless, gutless and same exact if not maybe 1 mpg better than a 351, I wouldnt bother. They also rev out way to high to make any usable power where you need it.
Id much rather have a 351 or 300 cu in 6 then the 302.
Basically you need to watch out for worn out steering and frontend components and RUST lots of rust. Also watch out for worn out E4OD automatics, the ZF 5 speed that comes in most of the 300s and 351s is excellent btw.
Id much rather have a 351 or 300 cu in 6 then the 302.
Basically you need to watch out for worn out steering and frontend components and RUST lots of rust. Also watch out for worn out E4OD automatics, the ZF 5 speed that comes in most of the 300s and 351s is excellent btw.
#3
#5
thanks for the replys. it will be a daily driver and i'll be pulling my '66 stang on a car trailer maybe twice a year. i don't need 4wd. i thought about a 300 powered truck but was unsure it would pull the trailer ( guessing about 5500 car/trailer/misc). has to be an auto, the wife will prob borrow it on ocassion.
#6
#7
Front ends fall apart over time. Ball joints are the big concern, they're time consuming to replace.
Cab corners, beds, and core supports rust out. Not a matter of "if", its "when"
300's are nearly indestructible, and could pull your trailer with the correct gearing. I'd go with a 351, they're also known for durability.
E4OD automatic transmissions will fail if you overheat them and neglect fluid changes. When a sensor goes out they'll act strange. Rebuilds are expensive
Last year of the IDI was 1994. Simple, reliable engines provided you perform routine maintenance. Use of coolant additives is mandatory for long life.
The ZF is the manual to go for if so inclined. Built for truck use and very durable. The Mazda trans in F150's is built for lighter use.
460's will pull almost anything, but they suck gas. No way you'll ever achieve "good" fuel economy with one. Unless you need/want the power, skip it.
Plastic interior door handles usually break. Easy and cheap to change, or older metal ones are a direct bolt on in place of plastic on newer trucks.
Door weatherstripping usually wears out. Not a big deal, however wind noise is annoying
IMO a Super Cab is the way to go. Lockable weatherproof storage and extra space is always a plus.
Cab corners, beds, and core supports rust out. Not a matter of "if", its "when"
300's are nearly indestructible, and could pull your trailer with the correct gearing. I'd go with a 351, they're also known for durability.
E4OD automatic transmissions will fail if you overheat them and neglect fluid changes. When a sensor goes out they'll act strange. Rebuilds are expensive
Last year of the IDI was 1994. Simple, reliable engines provided you perform routine maintenance. Use of coolant additives is mandatory for long life.
The ZF is the manual to go for if so inclined. Built for truck use and very durable. The Mazda trans in F150's is built for lighter use.
460's will pull almost anything, but they suck gas. No way you'll ever achieve "good" fuel economy with one. Unless you need/want the power, skip it.
Plastic interior door handles usually break. Easy and cheap to change, or older metal ones are a direct bolt on in place of plastic on newer trucks.
Door weatherstripping usually wears out. Not a big deal, however wind noise is annoying
IMO a Super Cab is the way to go. Lockable weatherproof storage and extra space is always a plus.
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#8
The 302 will pull a 5000lbs trailer fine, no need for the bigger 351.
Gutless, yea right:
1992 F150 4x4 :: 037264cd.mp4 video by payupsuka - Photobucket
#9
1. As someone else said check the frame for cracks and welds in the frame also look for general sag.
2. Change the spark plugs when you get the vehicle or if you get it from a dealer make them change the plugs as part of the deal. (I did not do this and as a result I am paying a mechanic to extract the metal sleeve of a blown out spark plug from the engine block.)
3. get under the engine area and run a white rag across the bottom of the radiator or on top of the bottom radiator support. If you have fresh coolant there then that is an issue. you don't want to have to replace the radiator a month after you buy it.
4. check all 4 tires for signs of irregular wear. If the tires are worn on the outside then you may have an issue.
5. give the transmission a work out a various speeds. Go to a good hill and make sure the tranny is kicking down smoothly to get up the hill.
6. If the truck has 2 tanks make sure you select both (dash switch) of them and drive for a bit on both of them to make sure there is no issue. The rear tanks have a tendency to rust out near the tank retention strap. also if you check this site you will find that there can be an issue with one tank filling the other (search this site under that topic)
7. check the leaf spring hangers for rust out. the rears in particular have a tendency to retain water and rust right through the bottom. Even though they are still functional for everyday driving I wouldn't want to test them with a load in the back.
8. turn the wheel all of the way over (both l and R) in both forward and reverse and tap the brakes a few times at slow speed in a parking lot. I had a brake issue I didn't even realize until I did this.
I have a 96 F-150 xl 4x4 w/302 E4OD. If I had done all of these thinsg before I gought the truck I would have saved a LOT of money, but like anything it is hard to perceive the shortcomings until you really start using it.
Good luck!
2. Change the spark plugs when you get the vehicle or if you get it from a dealer make them change the plugs as part of the deal. (I did not do this and as a result I am paying a mechanic to extract the metal sleeve of a blown out spark plug from the engine block.)
3. get under the engine area and run a white rag across the bottom of the radiator or on top of the bottom radiator support. If you have fresh coolant there then that is an issue. you don't want to have to replace the radiator a month after you buy it.
4. check all 4 tires for signs of irregular wear. If the tires are worn on the outside then you may have an issue.
5. give the transmission a work out a various speeds. Go to a good hill and make sure the tranny is kicking down smoothly to get up the hill.
6. If the truck has 2 tanks make sure you select both (dash switch) of them and drive for a bit on both of them to make sure there is no issue. The rear tanks have a tendency to rust out near the tank retention strap. also if you check this site you will find that there can be an issue with one tank filling the other (search this site under that topic)
7. check the leaf spring hangers for rust out. the rears in particular have a tendency to retain water and rust right through the bottom. Even though they are still functional for everyday driving I wouldn't want to test them with a load in the back.
8. turn the wheel all of the way over (both l and R) in both forward and reverse and tap the brakes a few times at slow speed in a parking lot. I had a brake issue I didn't even realize until I did this.
I have a 96 F-150 xl 4x4 w/302 E4OD. If I had done all of these thinsg before I gought the truck I would have saved a LOT of money, but like anything it is hard to perceive the shortcomings until you really start using it.
Good luck!
#10
the 302 has its power band in high rpms as you just showed in you video proving our point. you do not want your pulling motor to make all of its power in the high rpm range because you consume alot more gas. a 351w makes its power in the lower rpm range making it more ideal for pulling and it using less fuel because it requires less rpm to pull the weight with out being much bigger then the 302. o yea and my the way all the differences you pointed out are good reasons to get a 351w over a 302 because they increase its overall durability.
#11
Here's my $.02...
The 300 is a brute, draft horse of an engine...After about 50mph...You're gonna lose steam...FAST....
The 302....Is like an Arabian racehorse.....Not much grunt under 2,000 rpm's....But at 50+ mph and about 3,500 rpm's....It'll fly...
The 351w...Is more like a Kentucky Thoroughbred....Pulls great from Idle-5,500 rpm's....
Now pick...
In all honesty...It sounds like a 351w will suit you the best.....Mpg will be so/so....not bad...Not great...Then again, you're loking into a TRUCK, not a Prius....But it's gonna beat the 11mpg of a 460....lol
The 300 is a brute, draft horse of an engine...After about 50mph...You're gonna lose steam...FAST....
The 302....Is like an Arabian racehorse.....Not much grunt under 2,000 rpm's....But at 50+ mph and about 3,500 rpm's....It'll fly...
The 351w...Is more like a Kentucky Thoroughbred....Pulls great from Idle-5,500 rpm's....
Now pick...
In all honesty...It sounds like a 351w will suit you the best.....Mpg will be so/so....not bad...Not great...Then again, you're loking into a TRUCK, not a Prius....But it's gonna beat the 11mpg of a 460....lol
#13
#15
I'm gona SAFELY asume this with you driving like a 99 yr old man, with a brick UNDER the fuel pedal, the truck in PERFECT maintenance, with a whole convoy of Semi-Trucks, and NOTHING in the bed, or in the cab.....
LOL
P.S-With a 35mph tailwind.....
LOL
P.S-With a 35mph tailwind.....