(-) Door Trigger for Remote Start/Alarm?
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From: Anderson, SC
(-) Door Trigger for Remote Start/Alarm?
Alright, finished wiring up my remote start/alarm system except for one final wire. It says that it needs to tap into a wire that shows ground any time the door is opened. I thought this would be the black/light blue wire in the kick panel, however there is a note that it should be a wire that is not affected by the dome light circuit delay. Basically what this wire does is detect if the door is opened when the system is armed, and if it is then it will set the alarm off. Well since the black/light blue wire is on the dome light delay, when I tapped into that then when I shut my door and arm the system, it's fine as long as the dome light is on, but when it times out and goes off the alarm goes off. What wire can I tap into to detect whether or not the doors are open but won't be affected by what the dome light is doing?
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From: Anderson, SC
Wouldn't that only work if the key was in the ignition?
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From: Anderson, SC
Well I made a mistake to begin with...the black/light blue wire is a (+) wire not a (-) wire. My remote start/alarm has separate wires for (+) door triggers or (-) triggers, whichever the vehicle has. So I'm going to change it in the morning and see if that works. But if it doesn't, from your diagram it seems like I could tap into the orange wire going into the instrument cluster. Isn't that the wire that turn's on "door ajar" indicator light?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Clearwater Fl.
The chime itself only works with the key in the ignition. The vehicle still knows the door is open, utherwise the chime would not go off as soon as the key is inserted in to the ignition when the door is open, and go off when the door is closed. Just my thoughts.
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From: Anderson, SC
But if you ever take your ignitiOn out and look at what it's doing, the key, when inserted, raises a piece of metal up to where it touches another, completing the ground side of the circuit to create the chime. So without the circuit being complete it wouldn't provide any power signal to let the alarm system know anything.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Illinois
Well I made a mistake to begin with...the black/light blue wire is a (+) wire not a (-) wire. My remote start/alarm has separate wires for (+) door triggers or (-) triggers, whichever the vehicle has. So I'm going to change it in the morning and see if that works. But if it doesn't, from your diagram it seems like I could tap into the orange wire going into the instrument cluster. Isn't that the wire that turn's on "door ajar" indicator light?
I commend you for your effort but what a headache. IMO these system are better left for the Pro's to install that do these things on a daily basis. When I was considering installing my remote start myself, I looked at the install diagram and said screw this, for $100 I'll let them install it...
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
I commend you for your effort but what a headache. IMO these system are better left for the Pro's to install that do these things on a daily basis. When I was considering installing my remote start myself, I looked at the install diagram and said screw this, for $100 I'll let them install it...
The system isn't hard to install at all as long as you can get access to what wires to use. IMO people are crazy to pay any more than $100 to have these things installed. Especially on a truck with ZERO factory security features to bypass.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Illinois
What system do you have? I had my Smart Start installed $399+tax and it comes with the 1yr acess thru your phone. The install was the same for Diesel or Gas. Nobody these days will install something they don't sell you...
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From: Anderson, SC
I have a Python 533 and the SmartStart DSM250. But the SmartStart isn't installed and activated yet because I didn't know that DEI idiotically requires you to get it activated by a dealer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Scio, OR
The orange wire going to the instrument cluster is not the door ajar light wire. It appears that it is the UBP buss. It also goes to the Drivers Seat module and EATC if you have them, and of course to the Data Link Connector. UBP stands for UART Based Protocol and is a data buss that provides inter-module and diagnostic communication. There is probably a command sent along the UBP buss to turn the door ajar light on and off.
I don't think there is a single wire coming out of the VSM that would be exactly right to use in your case. The dome light wire might work if you hooked it to the plus wire you mentioned. But you'd have to wait for the dome light to go out before arming the system, otherwise it would think a door is still open.
The complete diagram of the UBP buss (Orange wire) is below, FYI.
P.S. You DO have Remote Keyless Entry and a VSM, don't you? Because if you don't, it's all different.
I don't think there is a single wire coming out of the VSM that would be exactly right to use in your case. The dome light wire might work if you hooked it to the plus wire you mentioned. But you'd have to wait for the dome light to go out before arming the system, otherwise it would think a door is still open.
The complete diagram of the UBP buss (Orange wire) is below, FYI.
P.S. You DO have Remote Keyless Entry and a VSM, don't you? Because if you don't, it's all different.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Harford County, MD
I'll check today when I get home from work. I just finished putting an alarm/remote start in my '05 EX last week - not sure if the wiring is the same, but it should be pretty close.
Got my system from autoalarmpro.com - they pre-wire it for your specific vehicle, and include directions on exactly where to locate each wire, and which wiring harness it's in. They also provide tech support if you run into any problems - I had to call them a couple of times (mostly stupid mistakes on my part) and they were very helpful.
I'll take a look today when I get home and see if I can find out which wire is the (-) Door Trigger
Got my system from autoalarmpro.com - they pre-wire it for your specific vehicle, and include directions on exactly where to locate each wire, and which wiring harness it's in. They also provide tech support if you run into any problems - I had to call them a couple of times (mostly stupid mistakes on my part) and they were very helpful.
I'll take a look today when I get home and see if I can find out which wire is the (-) Door Trigger