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Man, now I am torn on whether to do the factory replacement bushing or a Poly one.
I bought both and after looking at them I put the poly in because it looked to be sturdier, the factory rubber I took out was trashed and I felt the poly would last longer...
If anyone wants the new factory one I have pm me and I'll send it too you just pay shipping and it's yours...
What's the symptoms of a worn track bar bushing? My front end likes to "bump steer" if one side hits the bump and not the other, but I've always assumed that was due to the solid front axle.
What's the symptoms of a worn track bar bushing? My front end likes to "bump steer" if one side hits the bump and not the other, but I've always assumed that was due to the solid front axle.
Because the track bar holds the axle under the truck all sorts of things
can and do happen. I was dealing with loose steering and having to do
a lot of over correcting just to keep it centered. A pothole was it own little
adventure. I never knew where the wheels would end up. Well other than
mostly under the truck.
Have someone get in and rock the wheel with the engine running on dry
pavement and watch the bushing end for movement. Then look at the other
end and see how the balljoint is doing on the axle housing. It should be
nice and solid. If you find it wobbling around as the wheel is rocked then
you need to think about also changing the ball joint. It's only about $30.00.
The hard part is there is not a lot of room and you have to torque things with
the truck sitting on it wheels.
Still loafing around in it Benny, it's odd that some days it runs stronger than others. I plan to put a set of injectors in it sometime soon. Just need the $$ and time.
What's the symptoms of a worn track bar bushing? My front end likes to "bump steer" if one side hits the bump and not the other, but I've always assumed that was due to the solid front axle.
Mine is more like the Death-saw. Having to keep correcting each turn
of the wheel do to the over steering and wander.
Well we had quite the gusher here today. I am glad I put off starting on this
do to the back and knee acting up. I would say that the pain was weather related
but there have been days where it did not hurt more and we got crazy rain and
a few lighting and thunder shows with the rain.
Death wobble like it's the trucks job. I'm pretty sure I need a new track bar bushing. The track bar was installed back in November, oriley special but I changed the steering box soon after and spilled alot of PS fluid and had a diesel leak a while back so it didn't help any of this.
Anything else I need to replace while im in there?
I didn't see much movement on the rest of it but that steering arm and track bar moved enough you will notice it drives better when you replace them. Iirc, if you don't want to fool with the bushing, the whole track bar assembly was surprisingly inexpensive. (From Ford)
Doing the bushing is only a good idea if your going to an
aftermarket busing from someone like Energy Suspension.
The trick is pushing that bushing into the bar. It likes to
tip and squish out. What I did was use a small ball joint
shell to hold it over the track-bar as I pressed it in.
You want a shell that the new busing fits into with very little
movement and then use something to press it into the opening
in the track-bar. Once you get the lip past the opening of the
hole it will go in smoothly with all the grease that they sent
with the kit.
The other end of the bar goes onto that ball joint that is mounted
on the axle housing. That one can be a little tricky. When you have
the bar out make sure to not turn the steering wheel or the axel can
be a pain the get back where it needs to be.
Even being a chinese track bar I'd think the bushing itself is all that needs replaced, hopefully. Getting that thing off the first time was no joke. I've thought about getting something like this kit and doing it all, only thing not there is U-joints. and I don't have a press or air tools anymore so it might get tricky. I've got 180K and nothing has been replaced on the front except the steering box and track bar after the accident. Is there a definitive time when you need to replace everything up front or can it pretty much last forever?
You can do it with a ball joint press.
There is not really that much force needed to push the old one out.
It's more the keeping the poly from squishing out the wrong way
when you go to install the new bushing.
No it should not move.
Also don't forget the torque on that bolt. 406 Ft/Lb.
I asses a bunch of PDFs for you with the front end info. To do the track bar it is easier to also remove
the stabilizer bar (well it was for me) so that you have room to get at things. You will also have to pull
the passenger side wheel and outer drag link to get room to change out the track bar ball joint. Be sure
to use a jack-stand so the axle does not shift or you will have a pain getting the track bar bolt back in.
I ended up rocking the steering wheel even after being very careful not to move anything. (it happens)
Having a (had to look this up) Bull pin coms in handy for getting the holes to align so you can get the bolt
in place. The other thing that can help a lot is a ¾" drive socket and a wrench. I happened to have picked
up a ¾" drive torque wrench. 406Ft/Lb is less work on the end of a 4' long wrench.
The Bull Pin tool.
Well that was odd. I had uploaded some PDFs to this post and they all went POOF.
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