Any recommendations on a good AM/FM stereo for my 1978 F250 that also has a jack for an iPod. Crutchfield lists two, one for $159 and one for $279, but I wanted to know what other options might be available.

Also, what speakers should I get? I know very little about stereos, but the AM radio in the truck, though it works, just doesn't cut it.

Thanks
Frank

 

Depends on what all features you are looking for the radio to do. If you just want a radio with an AUX input jack for the iPod I'd go with the cheaper one. I have a cheaper Sony in my truck and it sounds good, but then again I'm running two amps. One for the door speakers and tweeters and one for the sub.

As far as speakers 6 1/2's will fit in the doors factory location good, unless a previous owner has already ran the wires you'll need to run the wires to the doors for them.

 

Dual makes a cheapie AM/FM/cassette player that's shaft-style to fit these trucks, and it has a line input jack. It won't control the iPod, but you can at least route the audio. It's not the best out there, but it's decent. If all you're looking for is something better than what you've got, then you're set. You'll want to verify that the shafts are for sure adjustable to fit your truck, but I have seen this one installed in our generation trucks before.

Dual XC4100 Cassette player at Crutchfield.com

Look in my gallery for a better setup. I run 6.5's in the doors, and boxed 6x9's behind the seat.

 

CustomAutosound is the bomb when it comes to classic looking decks with modern technology. Check 'em out.: CUSTOMAUTOSOUND.COM

When installing door speakers, install the speakers in baffled housings and apply Dynamat, Zillamat, Boom Mat, or an equivalent to the doors, cab floor, and roof so ya hear and feel more of the music rather than the road racket.

 

I got myself a custom autosound USA - 1 for my pickup for my birthday, I'll be installing it this weekend and I'll give you the 411 of what I did and how it turned out, etc. Right now my stereo is just a gaping hole in the dash

 

As far as the stereo is concerned I would suggest you convert to the "DIN" style (most common size of modern aftermarket stereos). The shaft style stereos that are available cost a lot more just for the fact they are shaft style and therefore less common these days, you could get more feature then those Crutchfield shaft-style stereos for $50 in a DIN style. I can understand if you want to keep the original look just understand that you're paying for it. I put a DIN style in mine and it took a couple hours and maybe $15 worth of materials. I got a good deal on a last-years-model package deal Sony stereo and two 6.5 speakers for $65 from Amazon. It has USB port, works with iPod/Phone, and has a remote.

Key things to look for in the stereo (if you're not running extra amps) is the built in amp. You'll want to look for the word MOSFET and at least 15 watts RMS. Any stereo that is over $50 will probably have this but worth checking. The speakers are more important as far as where you want to pay for quality IMO. For the speakers make sure the RMS power range exceeds the stereos output (for 6.5" speakers this probably won't be an issue). Then check the frequency response. I think a CD is 20-20,000 Hz (think of this as the range of bass-treble). Finding a speaker over 20,000 is easy, its the low range you want to pay attention to. Most 6.5" are going to be around 50 or so but you can find some that go lower (look at Pioneer). Then you want to look for sensitivity over 90 dB.

If you're on crutchfield, on any product, click on the "Details" tab and you can click on any of the categories and get a description of what all the numbers mean.

 

A couple minor corrections here - just because it doesn't say "MOSFET" doesn't mean it doesn't have a built-in amp. MOSFETs are just one implementation; you can have a built-in amp that doesn't use FETs. It can also use FETs and not actually say MOSFET. It's just an advertising thing for some manufacturers (make it sound fancy by using acronyms and technical terms, and people think they're getting a lot of technology for their money - nothing wrong with that).

Also, most cheapie decks from back in the day started at about 5 watts on each channel, and that power got divided between the front and rear. That relatively low amount of power can sound surprisingly loud, but of course higher power has the potential to sound louder. Most modern decks can easily put out 50W on each of four channels, at the same distortion level as earlier-model decks at 5W.

If the deck says anything about wattage, or speaker impedance, then it's a speaker driver and has a built-in amp. Be careful using price as a means to determine whether it has a built-in amp; component decks (which only have a line driver for an amp) can be well over $200. However, most consumer-level decks have a built-in amp nowadays and this really isn't much of a concern anymore.

 

I was just trying to give the OP the basics of what to look for. It seems like every stereo out there these days will have MOSFET or equivalent technology but 10-15 years ago that wasn't the case. The bigger point I was trying to make is "and at least 15 watts RMS". You will see the max wattage advertised but RMS is the important number to look at when comparing one deck to another. Most decks will say they are 4x 50w (max) but RMS can be between 12-22 watts. Since he will most likely be looking at 6.5" speakers they will need some power to sound good in a 30 year old truck.

 

I have a custom autosound in my F100 with the ipod jack. I may be selling it. What's it worth to you?

 

So the results of my new headunit - I've got some kenwood 6 1/4 3-ways in the doors, and 16 ga wire. The pros of the headunit:
it does everything I want it to do, play music, remember my stations, show the time, play tapes, have aux. port, etc.
Easy enough to figure out
Easy to wire in (also, thanks to Ford for the easy connections to constant 12v)

The cons-
The 18 ga wire is kinda weak, I ripped some wire out of a crimp during installation
Made in China "Modified in USA" - bait and switch baby
The little lines on the display can get annoying
NO tech support

Like I said, the install wasn't too bad at all. Bullet connector in GRN/YEL harness above glovebox for constant 12v, YEL/BLK wire for 12v switched radio (got it's own seperate fuse), ground to the dash. Drill holes in the doors, install boom mat and speakers, run the wires through the panels. Actually, that's what sucked the most, running the wires through the panels. GOOD LUCK. But yeah, that's pretty much it!

 

advanced auto has a dual single din with usb and 3.5mm input on sale for 59.99 and it will do the trick toss in a set of pioneer door speakers and seal the doors up for good sound with out amps ect. i have a 15wx4 old as dirt jensen i was going to up grade for plow season to the dual but the new door speakers gave it new life. i guess im using the tape to i pod or lap top agin this plow season.