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I am trying to figure out all of the components I will need to do a t5 swap in my 53 f100. Right now I have the 8ba 239 flathead, 3 speed light duty trans, and dana 44 rear.
From what I have read you need an adapter, pilot bearing adaptor, release bearing, input shaft spacer, and clutch/pressure plate setup.
Does this look like all I need?
Offenhauser Chevy T-5 Adapter Kit from speedway
s10 t5 1985-1987 preferred for gearing
10" Clutch Disc 1" - 14 Spline S-10
Flathead 10" Long Style Pressure plate
Driveshaft modified
You also need to modify the existing crossmember and add a new one for the back end of the T5. You'll have to cut a hole in the trans cover plate. I believe you need a new yoke for the rear of the trans.
FYI - I just bought a '93 S-10 T5; it is a World Class T5, whereas the earlier ones aren't. It has electronic speedo but it is easy to convert back to a mech.
Could you outline the conversion of a electronic speedo tailshaft to a mech one or point me to a source for info on how to? This could open up my trans search considerably. Thanks
Could you outline the conversion of a electronic speedo tailshaft to a mech one or point me to a source for info on how to? This could open up my trans search considerably. Thanks
about halfway down the page, he details how he relocates a Camaro speedo; to convert an electronic to mechanical, as far as I know you just need to replace the tonewheel for the electronic with a gear. I haven't been inside my trans yet but that is my understanding.
about halfway down the page, he details how he relocates a Camaro speedo; to convert an electronic to mechanical, as far as I know you just need to replace the tonewheel for the electronic with a gear. I haven't been inside my trans yet but that is my understanding.
I read that (or similar article) somewhere also although this article makes it sound much easier? or maybe I'm just feeling more adventurous...
Of course the question arises, does anyone need a WC T5 behind a Flathead?? Guess it couldn't hurt.
Josh, I think it is worthwhile from the standpoint of durability, and also the improved synchros typical to WC trannies. I'm not totally clear on it but my belief is that WC trannies of all types got a new design synchro blocker rings that are more durable.
One other thing I want to look into is a short-throw shift conversion, not for the reduced throw so much as the stop bolts many of them include (not all). In the hot-rod Mustang world, with 6" long shifters, broken shifter forks are pretty common from over-travel. In our application, with lots of leverage provided by a 3-ft long shifter, a lot of force can be put on the forks. The stop screws will prevent that.
The speedway adapter plate was 5/8" thick, and this set the T5 too far back from the motor. The clutch disk in engaged position would only catch 1/4" or so of the T5 input splines, and the T5 candle stick was only about a 1/4" into the pilot bushing. The T5 need to move about 5/8" inch closer to motor for better engagement with pilot bushing and clutch disk.
This was with a '86 S10 T5 and the '53 truck 8BA bellhousing. My options where to modify the clutch disk hub to catch more of the input splines or to eliminate the adapter plate and modify the bellhousing to mate to the T5 directly.
Has anyone heard this before? He was using a stock 8ba 53 f100 which is the same thing I have so I am nervous.
If you search back on FTE a few weeks, there was a discussion of whether a 3-sp light duty trans from a 48-52 would fit a 53; one of the differences is that the input shaft on a '53 3-sp is longer than the 48-52 piece, because the '53 BH is deeper (because of the mounts, I'd assume). So I could see where using the adapter on a '53 with a '53 BH would leave the shaft too far back.
I changed to a T-5 about 2 months ago and I love it. I got the Speedway kit fo the 239 flathead everything was there that I needed. used the old pressure plate and got a disc to match the T-5 splines. Speedway is very helpfull and knowledgable. Ask for a flathead tech on the phone. I got a 93 T-5 from junk yard for $150 bucks. I got a drive shaft and yoke from same truck for $35 bucks and had the dana 44 u joint installed on it and ballanced for $230.00 My trans came with a shifter and I welded the old shaft to the new shifter to make it look stock. Truck runs better on highway.
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