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This is the second time since owning the vehicle that I have done this but I am still not done and I have the worst ones left #'s 3 & 4. I guess that's why I left them in for 140k. I have an extra COP that I will change out while I have it out of the #4. I found the best way to do the plugs is to have 1/4 drive extensions of different legnths, swivels an upen end 7mm and a magnetic tip bolt retriever. Lay on top of the motor with your feet resting on a ladder while laying on a cushion from an old lawn chair. Be prepared to be in that position for 2 hours. Don't use standard plugs, buy the longest life plug there is. Don't forget to blow out each plug hole at least one time. Some beer and soothing music might help.
Hah, guess I am in for the same fun. But no way in hell will I pay a mechanic to do spark plugs. Or anything really unless it requires specialized tools that I don't have access too currently.
#5 was not bad for me working on # 7 now, just the COP bolt is a pain on this one due to obstruction. Do I really need the motor to be cold to pull the plug?
Dude, Ill trade ya. Just took 6 hours to change out my drivers exhaust manifold and that was with using a oxy-acetaline torch. Now I got to do the pass side.
All of my bolt heads were there. The manifolds themselves rotted through. Truck went from hero to zero pulling away from a traffic light one day and it has been getting louder since.
Although when I tried to remove the nuts, a few of them were so rotted they wore down to nothing and i had to burn them off and extract the studs.
My truck only has 108k on it but it looks like the first owner used it to tow a boat (saltwater) so now Im dealing with the fallout
The ones in my wifes old Dodge mini van were a bear the transvers V-6 the back cylinder bank plugs you have to pull the intake off to get to them it had 170000 when we traded it in with the stock plugs still in the rear facing cylinder bank Ha Ha I was not going to pull the intake off unless I had to.
I can say bening a aircraft mechanic also some of those enginees makes you wounder about what were they thinking beside it works on paper.
One time we had a problem and asked the engineer's how thay wanted to fix it they gave us a fix we told them it willn't work and asked them have they even walked out and looked at the aircraft or have they ever seen what we are talking about at all bedside on paper.
It just takes time and patience. As mentioned earlier, have all the tools you might need near by and make sure you have a magnet there too. Clean all around the area you will be working in and blow out the plug holes with compressed air before attempting to remove a plug. If there's a lot of materiel in the plug cavity use a shop vac to get it out. When assembling make sure you put a little Anti-Seize on the threads of each plug.
Use friction/electrical tape on the sockets and extensions that will go down the cavity so you can easily get them out.
I would also offer use dielectric grease around the cop boots, knowing they crack and will allow the spark to arch against the plug wall.
Also, with the 99, you have the old style plugs, not the two piece that like to break off as noted above. I did however, find that #5 was the worst worn plug when I changed them last. Must be a hotter cylinder based on fuel intake design.
Last time I checked, the local mechinc wanted 35 bucks a plug for labor to do this. However, only the back four really take the time.
Moto Mel is right on... patience, patience, patience.
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