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Engine oil cooler question.

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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Engine oil cooler question.

I have a 1996 4wd 7.3L powerstroke, and I need to replace my oil cooler. It is very rusty, and is leaking enough to leave a drip on my oil filter, but not on the driveway, yet. I've read through all the threads dealing with this thing, and I have a question. Do I need to disconnect the LH engine mount to remove the oil cooler? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated, as this is my first oil cooler! Thanks!

Paul
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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No, you don't have to remove the engine mount. You kinda have to turn it a bit but it will come out pretty easy.

Make sure you lube up the o-rings really good before you assemble the new one, a ratchet strap works pretty good to press it together, and get a LONG socket extension to reach the front bolts from the outside of the wheel well.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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its a piece of cake, drain your oill and then you can pull the block heater plug out to drain the coolant just remove the inner fender liner and you can access the bolts from there 2 on the front and 3 on the rear. all 10mm if i remember right. twist it a few ways, by the time you get it out it will probally be turned 180 degress from where you started, your truck is 4wd so thats a plus. little bit harder with a big coal spring sitting there. slap on the gaskets and pop it right back in the way it came out.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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Mine is 2wd and I didn't have to remove the inner fender and the coil spring wasn't in the way.

Like I said earlier, if you have a long extension you can reach those front bolts easily from the outside of the inner fender...
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm ordering the parts from Silver State Ford tonight, and hopefully tackle this project Thanksgiving weekend! Also, will probably put new coolant in too. Oh well, I just did an oil change a couple of weeks ago, but did not think the oil cooler was that bad until it started leaking! I guess I will catch the newer oil with a nice clean pan when I remove the oil filter.

Paul
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
Mine is 2wd and I didn't have to remove the inner fender and the coil spring wasn't in the way.

Like I said earlier, if you have a long extension you can reach those front bolts easily from the outside of the inner fender...
really? the truck i had before this one was 2wd and that spring got in the way more than anything trying to reach around it maneuvering the cooler. might of been since it was 20 degress outside with all basic hand tools and everything seemed to be in the way. the next time was all air power and in an enclosed garage on my 4x4.

your going to need to replace the coolant anyway, really no way to get around that it will go everywhere just make sure you have plenty of bucket for it, nice thing about being lifted i can just stick a 5 gallon bucket under there but that still wasnt enough.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 06:57 AM
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Well, the oil cooler is done! I could not believe how hard it was to push the end housings onto the oil cooler, even after warming the housings in the oven at 150 degrees, and lubing the o-rings(almost got the bar clamp and wood blocks). Messy job, but its done. Everything went well! Thanks again to this forum and replies to my questions.

Paul
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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Congrats on the job, I'm sure mine will be leaking soon, its got almost 200K on it now.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:23 AM
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Are the oil coolers the same on the 7.3 idi as the 97 powerstroke ?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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I'm pretty sure they're the same between 94.5-03 7.3's. Not sure about the IDI. In 96 they switched to a c-clip for the pressure valve in the rear head which is a lot better than the older staked in style like mine had that went bad and killed my oil pressure...
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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and your wallet if I recall correctly!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 02:00 AM
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At the sugestion of a friend of mine at a Ford dealer, I pulled my power steering pump and folding my steering shaft into itself to help get my oil cooler in and out. Made the job alot easier. I was also changing my water pump at the same time which made accessing the two front bolts on the cooler alot easier.

As for pressing the unit together, a pair of big Irwin quick-grip clamps made the job fairly easy.

Alot of people just reuse the old cooler with new o-rings/gaskets, but I decided to fork out the money and buy a new cooler unit. I figure I've got it all appart its just extra insurance.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
and your wallet if I recall correctly!
Yep, a repair that should have cost less than $500 ended up being clost to $2k
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
Yep, a repair that should have cost less than $500 ended up being clost to $2k
Wow, what happened there Evan? Please tell so no one repeats this
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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Well, I wasn't getting oil pressure, so thought the LPOP was bad. Replaced that, still no pressure, so thought it was a broken front cover not allowing oil to get to the HPOP, but got it away from the dealership because they were incompitent (and did some really weird stuff to my truck), took it to a diesel shop that figured out that the pressure valve was missing from the rear oil cooler head. Bought a new one, threw it on there, and problem was fixed.
 
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