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Haven't even checked those either this is why I love this site when I forget something or can't think of something someone makes some good suggestions!
I spent hours last night surfing the web and can't find anything the hazards work fine now that it has a good flasher I even tried putting that flasher in place idk why it won't work I do know while the flashers are on if I apply the brake it makes my hazards stay on i did take the new grounds off because it seemed like it didn't make a difference I will be switching out the battery cables today we will see if that makes a difference but I'm trying to find out if anyone has any other ideas?
How about getting a new flasher? You said you took the one from the other truck, what if that was bad? Are there two flashers? I can't remember, one for 4 way one for turn signals? Or, test the one for the signals in the 4 ways.
You need to start eliminating the variables.
You know the wires are good to the lights because the 4 ways work. The turn signals share the same wires.
Can you get a wiring diagram?
How does this work? I believe the power goes to the relay, then relay to hand switch, then switch to the lights? When the switch connects the relay starts to click.
You need to start tracing the current, that's what brought me to my switch problem in my truck. I was getting power to the switch but it was not going to the light wires. You probably aren't getting power to your switch.
After proving that your relay is good I would take the switch out and check for voltage on the switch. If there is not voltage on any of the lines you know you need to trace back from there.
There are 2 relays one for turn one for 4 ways I did test the turn in the 4 way it works fine I don't know which wires are the pos wire that feeds the turn flasher
One probably is positive, you should be able to test with a volt meter. The old type of flashers that I remember had 3 prongs? Check the 4 way flasher mount/plug and see which one is positive on there. If you get positive flow say on the right prong, you should also get positive juice on the right prong of the turn flasher mount/plug.
If I'm wrong somebody please jump in. I'll try to check my truck's setup tonight if I remember.
Look at this link. It shows an 86 bronco diagram, which is probably similar..? Look at second diagram, notice ppl/org (purlple orange? ) wire coming from fuse into Dir Flasher. Then, light blue going from Dir Flasher to switch. Then switch going to lights. A fairly straight forward circuit.
Also notice 4 way flasher uses same wires from the directional switch. So, juice from 4 way flasher is making it to the switch (wht/red) and out to the directional lights using the same wires the turn signals will use.
I'm guessing that you are not getting any juice to the dir flasher. Or, the wire from the flasher to the switch is bad.
If you are getting juice to the switch then the switch is bad. (Remember what I said about those rivet connections... Moving the switch/column from your old truck could have compromised connections)
Make sure one of the sockets to the dir flasher is + 12 volts and go from there. If the flasher is getting juice then the switch should get juice... etc.. etc..
Also, I'll bet you can bypass the flasher by putting a jumper wire between the two sockets that the flasher plugs into. Then, if you put on your left signal the left light will go on without flashing. It would prove that your turn signal wire is sound. But, if you have a good flasher you should not have to do this. The flasher takes the juice, connects the circuit, probably heats up and clicks off, cools down, connects, heats up, repeats
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