Well this morning drained a little out of the radiator and went to get everything disconected to change the thermostat.

On my 04 F350, I took the air filter, CAC hose to intake, battery. Well started to take the bolts that hold the bracket on top the thermostat housing. The one toward the fan was good and easy to take off, the one toward the engine side was a PAIN, using my ratchet I know for sure I taped the fuel return line a couple of times.

Well after putting the new thermostat and housing, started to put things back together, before I put the battery on that side, air filter, I had the upper hose and refilled the collant back into the degas bottle. I turned the key to the on position to check if I had a leak especially since I had hit the return a couple of times, well I must of taped it more than I thought, cause when I turned the key to the on position it started to spray diesel. So of course I turned it off, looked and see were it was leaking from and all.

I went to disconnect the line from the filter and the line snaped were it cracked, so I went to my FMC and they didn't have it in stock and they checked everywere else and had to order the return line. So I went to figure a way to make a fix, so I went to AutoZone/Advance Auto and NAPA and they looked at it and they didn't have anything workable. So I took a fuel line fix line and couplers, I had to really do some reworking, since were the line broke was at the curve heading back down, so I cut enough of the line and made the connections, well I started the purge (key to on 3 times), each time I looked at the connections, the bottom connection worked fine, but my top on leaked, so for tonight I have some of parts apart and using JBWeld to hold everything together, tomorrow I'll put everything back on, while checking for leaks

Hopefully by Tuesday the part will come in, and talking with my parts/service department, I will usa a fuel line disconnting tool to disconnect the metal fuel line from the rubber hose and put everything back together.

My main question is what's the best way to take the bolts off the the thermostat housing with out damaging the fuel line?

 

My truck is an 05 and I used a deep socket and had no problem.

 

With a long enough extension to get the ratchet up away from the engine.

 

Ya I used a deep socket and extension, but the bolt on the engine side was the real pain since it was right next to the fuel return line. Besides that set of bolts, the first one to take the bracket off then the other to actually take the thermostat off everything was fine.

It's to the point were I do as much of my own maintance as I can, one to save money but also to make sure it's done right, since you never know what will happen if you take it to a shop.

 

The only reason why I did the thermostat change, using my SGII, and at times checking the EOT/ECT while driving the highway at 70 for over 45 minutes, I would have deltas ranging of 18 to 20* deltas, so I'm trying to treat everything before I finally say the oil cooler and such is bad.

 

I used to do all my own work except exhaust, glass, and transmission repair. But I've had a couple of vehicles with warrant and service coverage. I'm starting to appreciate that also. Unfortunately, my 6.0 doesn't have any coverage.

 

It seems to depend on the truck. In some cases the fuel return line doesn't interfere with the thermostat bolts at all. On my truck, I had to disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel bowl in order to get the bolt out. The bolt hit the line before it could be removed from the thermostat housing.

 

Mine came right out didnt have to mess with no fuel lines.

 

Notice that the Folks with Newer trucks 05+ didnt have an issue got it right out things were changed in 05+ and fuel lines are not an issue for thermistate removal

On the older trucks 03-04 its easier to diconect the fuel line thats in the way

Its alot faster to just unhook the fuel line than try and fight it when its in the way and thats how I do mine I do leave the battery in as well

Let us know if the thermistate closes the spread
I dont think I have seen it work yet where a thermistate brought the spread together
But will help to get it at optimal temp for fuel milage

 

Not to Hijack this thread or anything, but I have a question about the UPPER rad hose on the 6.0.... Now from what I remember in the older vehicles, the upper rad hose is normally full of fluid and under pressure....When you look at the 6.0 cooling system, the "FULL" level on the Degas tank is at a lower level that the upper rad hose, leaving air in the system no??? I just topped my unit off with some water and squeezed the rad hose, finding it was air filled not fluid filled... Any intel??

 

I've also seen the upper hose had air in it, but as long as all the hoses to degas and everywere else are good and connected, the air goes back to the degas, while the coolent flows through the system.

Once I get everything connected and run it with the temp fuel line fix until probably Wednesday or Thursday to get the correct line back on. Then run everything and keep eye on the spread, hopefully it will be a little better, since the thermostat was only around 182 to 186, I got a 185 thermostat to everything warmer.

 

I would not use JBweld to stop a fuel line from leaking.

If it cracks while driving, it could be a MESS.

I would just wait for the return line

 

Well just for clarification, I have compression fittings on my temp line, the only thing I have JBWeld on is a small piece of the old hose, that even with compression fittings the pipe isn't fully straight.

I would use my old military trick of Duck Tape, but that would be crazy. I mixed the JBWeld last night around the compression fitting and let it cure overnight, the only thing I had to due this morning is put the connections to the filter housing and the temp pipe and tighten up.

All I'm looking for is my new line to come in probably Tuesday/Wednesday and I can throw away the old line, this way everything will be back to normal.

 

Ahhh, That explains it well. I was wondering what the fuss was about.

 

If any thing brass compression fittings are the way to go.