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I dont mean to hijack the thread, but I got a lot of vibration in my front end now in my 87 150 4.9L 4 speed. I can feel it through the steering column a lot and I also have a lot of play in the steering wheel too. I know theres a little part in there somewhere that wears out real easy and causes this play, I just havent messed with it yet.
I think my ball joints might be going out as well. I dont know if they have ever been replaced and the truck has 141K on it. How do I check the ball joints? I've never greased the chassis and Ive owned the truck for a year and a half and put about 14K miles on. I plan to grease the crap out of it this coming weekend when I got my bed off and painting the frame.
You are pretty much in the same position as me, Joey. I have been trying to get around to checking for play in my front suspension but haven't had the time to do it yet. Might just have my shop take a look sometime this week for me.
Yeah this too, and the bushings wear out where the arm goes into the bracket. I usually drive with bad bushings, cus they only seem to last all of about a year. These are a little less straight forward to check, I usually just look to see if the bracket is "polished" where the bushing moves up and down inside the bracket. Doesn't ever seem to cause a vibration with just bad bushings though.
Looks like you hit the nail on the head. I had my shop take a look at my truck earlier today and they found that the passenger side's radius arm bushing blew out. He said they have to use their Porta-power to pull the arm out to replace the bushing. And he quoted me $290-310 to do just the passenger's side. Should I get the driver's side done as well?
Yikes. Thats a little steep for that job. My mom had a shop do her truck and they charged 160. But then again, that was in the cities not up north (I grew up in MN), and she didn't need a new bracket. The bushings can suck to replace if they've never been done before, because the bracket has to be removed from the frame and Ford riveted it in place (so you have to cut/drill large rivets) instead of bolting it (which is how you reattach it after bushing replacement).
I would look at the driver side bushing, on both sides of the bracket, and see if its dry-rotted or cracked. If it is, have that replaced as well at this time. If not, I would just drive it. Then if you pick up a similar vibration in two years, take a look at the driver's side bushing as it will probably be bad.
I dont mean to hijack the thread, but I got a lot of vibration in my front end now in my 87 150 4.9L 4 speed. I can feel it through the steering column a lot and I also have a lot of play in the steering wheel too. I know theres a little part in there somewhere that wears out real easy and causes this play, I just havent messed with it yet.
I think my ball joints might be going out as well. I dont know if they have ever been replaced and the truck has 141K on it. How do I check the ball joints? I've never greased the chassis and Ive owned the truck for a year and a half and put about 14K miles on. I plan to grease the crap out of it this coming weekend when I got my bed off and painting the frame.
Be sure to check the front u-joints as well. A failing u-joint can cause a vibration and can bind during a tight turn, making a pop or a clunk when the truck is moving. When testing the ball joints, aside from the 12 & 6 test use a long prybar or pipe under the tire and pry up. Movement will become evident as you apply upward force to the knuckle.
Yikes. Thats a little steep for that job. My mom had a shop do her truck and they charged 160. But then again, that was in the cities not up north (I grew up in MN), and she didn't need a new bracket. The bushings can suck to replace if they've never been done before, because the bracket has to be removed from the frame and Ford riveted it in place (so you have to cut/drill large rivets) instead of bolting it (which is how you reattach it after bushing replacement).
I would look at the driver side bushing, on both sides of the bracket, and see if its dry-rotted or cracked. If it is, have that replaced as well at this time. If not, I would just drive it. Then if you pick up a similar vibration in two years, take a look at the driver's side bushing as it will probably be bad.
You know, I have to stop back into the shop and double check that cost with my mechanic. I know he was saying something about the rear shocks being bad as well and I don't remember if he quoted me for those as well along with replacing the radius arm bushing. That could be why he wants $290-$310.
Thanks
Originally Posted by blkF250HD
Be sure to check the front u-joints as well. A failing u-joint can cause a vibration and can bind during a tight turn, making a pop or a clunk when the truck is moving. When testing the ball joints, aside from the 12 & 6 test use a long prybar or pipe under the tire and pry up. Movement will become evident as you apply upward force to the knuckle.