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The problem I am having is slamming between gears or when I let off the throttle.
I have pulled the codes. No codes for the KOEO. I receive code 111. I do receive stored memory codes 327 DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts. and 328 EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.
The only code for the KOER is 311 Thermactor air system inoperative (right side).
The engine idles ruff but seems to run well at other speeds.
Would any of these fault codes cause the hard shifting? The shifting problems started when a new short block was installed.
I was having the a hard shifting problem on my 97 f250 with e4od replaced my vss and still nothing got a new cluster from the junk yard and fixed my hard shifting problem completely but now my speedo jumps around alot like 30 mph at anything over 25mph so i dont know if the cluster i happen to get had a bad speedo in it or if its something else but the new cluster definitely helped my hardshifting problem.
What brand sensor did you replace your vss with?
Myself and many others I've talked to have had problems with anything except Ford OEM.
I put a motorcraft VSS on mine the last time it went out and even it doesn't register below 10mph. Just jumps straight from 0 to 10.
Also buckaroo is your odometer mechanical?
My 94 has a digital readout.
Fuse #6 or #8 IIRC is one of the ones for the speedometer, odometer, transmission shift control, etc. If you have a momentary short it will blow the fuse. I've never been able to find my short but when it blows my speedo quits working and my odometer goes blank, then my truck slams when it shifts.
If you have a mechanical odometer it would be hard to notice except for the speedometer, sound like anything similar to what's going on?
What brand sensor did you replace your vss with?
Myself and many others I've talked to have had problems with anything except Ford OEM.
I put a motorcraft VSS on mine the last time it went out and even it doesn't register below 10mph. Just jumps straight from 0 to 10.
My VSS is a napa one so that my be my problem. ill check that out an get back. thanks!
No in of themselves wouldn't cause shift problems.
EVP plugged in?
Shifting problems started right after short block installed as in right after, didn't shift right from the very first test ride?
Find the cause of the rough idle, it might prove be all be interconnected. Something not plugged in, a ground left disconnected when the motor was put in etc etc.
I bought the truck from my son shortly after he had the short block installed. He is the on that said it was shifting hard from the time the short block was installed.
When the engine and trans are warmed after running the slamming is intermittent in gears 2 and 3 but is noticeable when shifting into O.D. Also when the engine is warmed the slamming is far less sever then when the engine is cold. It also seems to be shifting up at too low of speed at lower RPMs. If I put my foot into it the trans seems to be fine except for the bump into OD.
The EVP is plugged in. Speedometer is working fine and the odometer is not digital.
As I stated earlier when checking the codes I did pull codes 327 and 328 from the stored codes. The codes did not show on KOEO check. Both codes are EVP/EGR related. If the EGR is not operating properly could this be the problem even thou there is no code received?
Was the trans removed with the motor? If so was the harness connector to the solenoid pack on the side of the trans plugged back in? (Passenger side just above the pan orientated vertically)
The EGR trouble codes, more then one possible cause however there is a test procedure you'll need run to narrow down exact cause.
I have it however can't post it for ya at the moment as I'm on a different computer.
I found a couple of broken vacuum line on the engine. One yellow and one pink/ light red. My question now is can I replace these lines with the old style black line or do I need to use the original style. If I need to go with the original does any one know a source for them?
I found a couple of broken vacuum line on the engine. One yellow and one pink/ light red. My question now is can I replace these lines with the old style black line or do I need to use the original style. If I need to go with the original does any one know a source for them?
Yes you can just use bulk rubber vacuum line from the auto parts to replace them as needed.
Thanks danr1. I thought I could but was just checking. Replaced the 2 broken vac lines and will replace the VSS tomorrow, just in case this may be the problem with the hard shifts.
On 2 occasions while performing the KOEO test i have received a 625 code. The code is not showing up in the KOER. I receive a 111. The code is not in the memory test either. On both occasions when I received the 625 I would retest and the code was gone. According to the book the code is dead fault. According to other sources it is the EPC Solenoid. Any help or advice with this one. I am also still receiving the 311 code.
Replaced the VSS and took test run. No help. Still shifting hard. Ran another code test. Received code 625 for the first time on the KOEO test. Nothing in the stored codes and still have the 311 code for the KOER test.
Reran both tests and this time the 625 was gone from the KOEO test.
From what I understand code 625 is either the Electronic Pressure Control or a hard fault.
Where is the EPC located on a e4od trans? Is it external or part of the internal solenoid pack?
The EPC would have to be replaced with the solenoid pack as a complete unit, last I knew about 90 bucks from napa.
From E40D service manual,
During the quick test the the voltage through the epc solenoid is checked and compared to a voltage through the solenoid after a time delay. A error will be noted if the change tolerance is exceeded.
Trouble shooting,
Check harness connector is fully connected (might want to remove it a minute see if its connection is soaked with trans fluid leaking into it)
Check resistance of solenoid,
4.0 - 6.5 ohms = check solenoid for short to ground
High resistance = replace pack
Continuity to ground = replace pack
I can give ya more exact test direction if needed.
I have decided to replace the solenoid pack in the transmission. I can get a new one not rebuilt for around 170.00. Are there any other parts besides the pan gasket, solenoid pack and fluid I will need?
What is the procedure to replace the solenoid pack? Any suggestions or tips out there?
I have decided to replace the solenoid pack in the transmission. I can get a new one not rebuilt for around 170.00. Are there any other parts besides the pan gasket, solenoid pack and fluid I will need?
What is the procedure to replace the solenoid pack? Any suggestions or tips out there?
Myself I'd do little testing before shelling out 170 bucks and hours work. Not hard to change no but really should test it first, chance its not the pack, harness might have suffered damage. The fact it worked fine until engine swap tends suggest damage to the harness rather then sudden solenoid failure.
To change it unplug the harness connector (Push button to release it, do not pry it off with screwdriver you will damage your "core" loose its value) drop the pan and remove bolts holding pack in place, pull pack straight down removing it from the case. Reverse order puts the new one in place.
Replace the filler while you're in there, drain the TC and refill with fresh fluid.