Headers or Manifolds?
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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Headers or Manifolds?
I am working on rolling upgrades to a '78 F250/400M with low miles. The short term list includes new exhaust to replace the tired OE style 2 1/2" into 2 1/4" system. I plan a dual kit, probably Hooker's. Next step upgrades inlcude some more breathing help in the form of a 4 bbl or FI and possibly a small cam.
I am debating headers. Headman offers a thermal coated header to fit the truck. Its a little spendy but looks like a nice piece.
Has anybody tried the Headman? Any comments welcome.
I am debating headers. Headman offers a thermal coated header to fit the truck. Its a little spendy but looks like a nice piece.
Has anybody tried the Headman? Any comments welcome.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Suburbs of Chicago
Is this a race truck? Frame off? If not, stick with your manifolds.
Yeah, they're more restrictive than headers, but they're tougher and give you more low end grunt. Just run true duals off the manifolds, you'll see an improvement for sure.
I'm going to be freshening up my 400 too. Cam, timing, intake, carb, dizzy, egr delete, valve job. Sticking with the manifolds myself
Yeah, they're more restrictive than headers, but they're tougher and give you more low end grunt. Just run true duals off the manifolds, you'll see an improvement for sure.
I'm going to be freshening up my 400 too. Cam, timing, intake, carb, dizzy, egr delete, valve job. Sticking with the manifolds myself
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Headers, a 2.5-inch exhaust tubing and free flowing mufflers is worth 15% to 20% across the board. A real set-of-the-pants difference in my experience (but with an FE).
If you don't already have an open element air cleaner and filter then that would be the first thing to do. It's amazing how restrictive stock air cleaners are. A good 10-15 hp gain typically... that's awesome bang for around $60.
L&L makes some really nice headers. JBG carries 'em.
EFI? F.A.S.T. XFI and Powerjection are at the top of my list.
If you don't already have an open element air cleaner and filter then that would be the first thing to do. It's amazing how restrictive stock air cleaners are. A good 10-15 hp gain typically... that's awesome bang for around $60.
L&L makes some really nice headers. JBG carries 'em.
EFI? F.A.S.T. XFI and Powerjection are at the top of my list.
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Joined: May 2010
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"The amount of horsepower an engine makes is directly related to the density of the air entering the engine.
The Ram Air Cleaner delivers higher density air by reducing the temperature and slightly increasing pressure at high speed.
For each 10° reduction in air temperature you can expect to increase horsepower by 1%.
Considering that under hood temperatures regularly reach 160° when the outside temperature is only 70°, the incoming air temperature may be reduced by up to 90° and gain 9% in horsepower.
On a 400 horsepower engine 9% is 36 horsepower! This cold-air intake made a 35 HP gain on a 466 HP Small Block Chevrolet!
The under hood temperature of the car was 118 degrees, with the SMW Cold Air Cleaner, the air temperature going into the carburetor was reduced to 68 degrees."
Quoted from - Schmidt Motor Works Ram Air Cleaner
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
A cold ram air filter will provide more power than an open element air cleaner...
"The amount of horsepower an engine makes is directly related to the density of the air entering the engine.
The Ram Air Cleaner delivers higher density air by reducing the temperature and slightly increasing pressure at high speed.
For each 10° reduction in air temperature you can expect to increase horsepower by 1%.
Considering that under hood temperatures regularly reach 160° when the outside temperature is only 70°, the incoming air temperature may be reduced by up to 90° and gain 9% in horsepower.
On a 400 horsepower engine 9% is 36 horsepower! This cold-air intake made a 35 HP gain on a 466 HP Small Block Chevrolet!
The under hood temperature of the car was 118 degrees, with the SMW Cold Air Cleaner, the air temperature going into the carburetor was reduced to 68 degrees."
Quoted from - Schmidt Motor Works Ram Air Cleaner
"The amount of horsepower an engine makes is directly related to the density of the air entering the engine.
The Ram Air Cleaner delivers higher density air by reducing the temperature and slightly increasing pressure at high speed.
For each 10° reduction in air temperature you can expect to increase horsepower by 1%.
Considering that under hood temperatures regularly reach 160° when the outside temperature is only 70°, the incoming air temperature may be reduced by up to 90° and gain 9% in horsepower.
On a 400 horsepower engine 9% is 36 horsepower! This cold-air intake made a 35 HP gain on a 466 HP Small Block Chevrolet!
The under hood temperature of the car was 118 degrees, with the SMW Cold Air Cleaner, the air temperature going into the carburetor was reduced to 68 degrees."
Quoted from - Schmidt Motor Works Ram Air Cleaner
Good info for the OP to consider.
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I still say if you want headers, go for it. You can get narrow tube headers that maintain exhaust velocity and therefore your torque. And unless you are driving your truck around at 1200 RPM all the time (unlikely), you won't notice the small torque loss, but you will notice the horsepower gain.
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Postmaster
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Thanks for the comments. On the intake, the OE setup is cool air with a very small filter as you guys know. When I change it, I'll look for an aftermarket cool air setup with 14x3 filter.
If I do go EFI it will likley be Comp EZ EFI. I'm running XFI on another vehicle and like it. I'd like to keep this one simple though. EZ EFI, a rebuilt Duraspark distributor and MSD box sounds like it will work well.
If I do go EFI it will likley be Comp EZ EFI. I'm running XFI on another vehicle and like it. I'd like to keep this one simple though. EZ EFI, a rebuilt Duraspark distributor and MSD box sounds like it will work well.
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+1 on the manifolds
headers turn to crap unless your gonna get good stainless steel jobs that will blow the budget. then you have to think that these motors want a little back pressure. i do how ever notice a difference if my cold air intake is unhooked vs hooked up especially when towing a heavy load.
the only way i use non factory headers is if the motor is going over 400 in the torque or hp figures then they get stainless. my built 351w new edge stang even runs a set of factory 5.8 cobra headers and it has no issues whipping on some new vetts. i have a set of big tubes hanging on the wall but refuse to use them and loose back pressure and screw up my world heads.
headers turn to crap unless your gonna get good stainless steel jobs that will blow the budget. then you have to think that these motors want a little back pressure. i do how ever notice a difference if my cold air intake is unhooked vs hooked up especially when towing a heavy load.
the only way i use non factory headers is if the motor is going over 400 in the torque or hp figures then they get stainless. my built 351w new edge stang even runs a set of factory 5.8 cobra headers and it has no issues whipping on some new vetts. i have a set of big tubes hanging on the wall but refuse to use them and loose back pressure and screw up my world heads.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,867
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From: Alton, MO
I have always preferred manifolds. I have always had exhaust leaks with headers to the point my current truck has the collectors cut off and the pipes welded straight to the headers. Then of course are the mounting bolts that work loose. I am huggin 50. I just want to walk out, start it up & drive trouble free. I don't want to spend every waking moment constantly redoing what has been done due to design issues. If you are racing that is one thing. Street use any gain with headers over manifolds will never be noticed.
We plan on doing a mild build on a 460 getting 650hp with manifolds.
We plan on doing a mild build on a 460 getting 650hp with manifolds.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Birch Harbor, ME
I went with the Hedman Elite Thermal Coated Long Tubes on my 78 F150 with a mild 400 and have been very happy with them. I think there was a noticible difference over the stock manifolds on my engine. The coating is very nice compared to the painted headers I had on my F100 and they fit nicely as well although starter changes may be a bit of a pain now. I think they are worth the money if you are going to be installing a cam and intake/4 barrel carb.