Ok, I'm fixing to order a rebuild kit from Rock Auto and the TCI technical manual on CD from Summit.

A lot of stuff I've read researching my problems says rebuilding it isn't TOO difficult. I hope not. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and as you can all see, I ask a lot of questions to get all the help I can.

 

Just be sure and soak the clutches in ATF (Like in a coffee can) over night before ya put them in.

 

I ordered the CD from Summit, it should be here tomorrow. When I was looking at the rebuild kits on Rock Auto none of them came with new bands. The bands were sold separately. I'm thinking I should buy a new intermediate band, but think I'll reuse the reverse.

Here is the description of the kit,

ATP Part # FM31 More Information About this Part Master Repair Kit: Contains Friction and Steel Clutch Plates, Gaskets, Seals, O'Rings, and Sealing Rings.
Trans. code C4; 3 speed trans.; STANDARD; After 5/1/1981 Order FO-189;AFTER 6/24/1977 (Only 8 Remaining)

Besides the intermediate band is there anything that IS NOT in this kit that could be causing my issues? I don't want to buy this kit (even though it's not expensive) and then there be something else wrong and it still not work.

 

You really wont know exactly what you will need until you tear it apart and inspect all components. Based on your description of what its doing I would say that the failure is going to be in the forward drum. Components you may need in the forward drum are the bevel return spring, top or bottom pressure plate, or the drum itself.

The intermediate band is for second only and cannot prevent it from not moving.

In addition to your kit I would think you will need a couple of bushings, spring and roller kit for the low-rev sprag, the low-rev band has a tendency to flake the lining due to age. Check the hub on the converter when its out for wear.

 

So if any of these springs or plates are broken they will obviously need to be replaced, how else would I know if I need to replace them or not?

EDIT: I just ordered this kit it has all the same as the one listed above but also includes some bushings, new filter, and modulator (which I already have a new one).

ATP Part # FMS24 More Information About this Part Master Repair Kit Plus : Contains Friction and Steel Clutch Plates, Gaskets, Seals, O'Rings, Sealing Rings, PLUS Oil Filter, Vacuum Modulator, Front Pump Bushing, and Extension Housing Bushing.
Trans. code C4; 3 speed trans.; PLUS; Contains 1-Hose Modulator (FX-187)

 

I got my kit and manual on CD, I have looked over both A LOT. I'm going to be pulling the transmission and starting to disassemble it in the morning.

I have been reading and watching videos like crazy these past few days getting ready for this. I hope all goes well, it seems like it should.

EDIT: I'll post pics of what I find.

 

Replace the belville spring and rear servo piston.

 

Got the tranny out this morning, took me 3 hours and 15 minutes. I was happy with that amount of time.

Ok, thanks Stuart.

 

Here's what I found out.

The only part that to me that shows any sign of wear is this drum


Here are some other pics of the clutch discs and stuff. They don't look that bad.




Besides the burned looking drum there was grey sludge in both band servos.




I'm going to clean everything up and replace stuff. I'm hoping the sludge in the servos and/or the burned drum was the issue and pray it works. LOL

Let me know what y'all think.

 

Those are your forward clutches and they are toast, this is why it wouldn't move forward, look closely at the ones that are still brown and you will notice how the outer edge of the clutch friction surface has started to flake off. The ones the are black are burnt, the drum is black due to the burnt clutches.

The drum most likely can be reused if there is not sealing ring wear from the rings on the pump stator.

 

Well tonight went to crap!!!! I had everything back together and was doing the air checks. Both servos work great, but I couldn't hardly hear either of the pistons engage and I could feel air coming out of the end of the pump shaft!

At first I didn't replace the steel ring seals on the pump shaft because the kit only had 4 in it, I know I only need 4 but two of them were too thick to fit in the grooves on the pump shaft. So I figured for the air to be coming from the shaft maybe I did need to replace the seals. So I pulled the pump back out and replaced two of the rings with the two that would fit and it did seem to make a difference in the sound of the piston engaging. So dumba$$ me decided I'd take it back out again and switch the rings to the other grooves to see if would make a difference on that one too. Well when I was trying to take the rings off. I freakin broke the tiny ears that locks the ring together!! .

So now I have two old rings still on there, one broke one, and one that is right!

Does anyone know if I could find this type of sealing ring at either a parts store, hardware store, or Tractor Supply??

Sorry for the long winded story.

 

Those rings are usually transmission shop items only.

 

That figures, that's about my luck! When I was searching for them on the internet last night I read some stuff that says the teflon ones seal better than the metal so hopefully I can find some of those and buy about 12 of them just incase I break a couple of them too.

I've been trying to test the piston movement with the clutch packs out of the transmission but I can't get a good enough seal around the little hole to make them engage.

 

Try getting them from AMCO or similar shop.

 

AAMCO? I wouldn't let AAMCO flush my toilet.