Hello, I am new to the site and have spent the last few days reading post and threads. I'm 30 years old and am not well versed in technical automobile mechanics, so I appreciate the help as I continue to learn.

I own a 66 F100 SWB 2wd w/352 3 speed and am trying to decide what improvements I would like to make (engine/brakes/steering) to improve reliability and ease of driving. I bought the truck to enjoy, not necessarily in the pursuit of rodding and def won't be working out of it. I am the third owner and it has approximately 80,000 miles.

After reading several threads I believe I am interested in a drum to disk conversion, adding power steering and making sensible improvements to the engine for reliability and slight performance improvements. Any suggestion on which to start first and specifically the best engine mods to make would be appreciated. Considered upgrading headers, carb, ??? . A side note, I do have a Ford tri-power unit that my bro-in-law is trying to convince me to put on it. But wouldn't that require me boring to a 390?

Finally, there appears to be a very slight oil leak...after driving I tend to find a quarter size amount of oil over the following week. Also, there are times when shifting from 1st to second seems impossible. It's a 3 speed on the tree and it refuses to go into 2nd gear sometims. Any insight as to what to check for on these issues would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Justin

 

Welcome to FTE Justin.

Your oil leak is probably coming from the valve covers, Wind coming through the engine bay blows it down the rear of the engine.

Let's take on the shifting first, I had to deal with this 35 years ago with my wife. Start palm up with your fingers under the shifter, pull it towards the steering wheel slightly while lifting it out of 1st. Don't stop until you are almost going into reverse then let it drop, using with the same method lift it into 2nd.

Try that method and post back if it makes a difference. I had to keep a hammer on the floor of the truck for her to unstick the arms at the firewall. Once she caught on she could do it.


2nd Start a plan for your upgrade. You want to buy a donor truck that is equipped like you want yours to end up. You should be able to find on in the $500.00 range, lift the front wheels off the ground and check for king pin wear. You can save that cost. 73-79 are best because the upgrade parts are direct bolt up. 73-76 for the FE engine, 73-79 for 302 or 300. I bought a 76 360/C6, rebuilt the tranny but a different engine, bolted the I-beams, and power steering gear up, replaced the wearable parts with new. The 360 engine is a good candidate to make a 390 by swapping crank & rods.

You will need a place to work for 2-3 months while you pull this off, if you don't have it, rent it.

Oh let the b i l keep the intake for a hot rod project.





John

 

Follow JW's advice, with the addition of considering my options.

For the oil leak, if you replace the valve cover gaskets and find that's not the source then it's probably the intake. The gasket across the back at the firewall is a notorious leaker and will look like a rear main seal leak that drips from the transmission bellhousing. You have to remove the intake to replace it, and you'll need an engine crane to do that because it weighs a million and a half pounds.

If you go to my web site, mongrelmotorsports, I have a how-to on doing the disc brake conversion. My method is to just swap the suspension whereas John prefers moving the body to a newer frame. Neither is wrong; I think you pick the method that makes the most sense for you and the equipment/space you have. I don't address power steering in my version because I don't feel it's necessary with the stock steering wheel leverage, but that's just one guy's opinion.

As far as improvements to the 352, I always suggest that you first get the current engine in top running form and then decide if you really need to change anything. It's certainly no hot rod, but I find it perfectly adequate for driving mine and I also pull a steel open car trailer with a 2500lb race car on it several times a year. I get 15 mpg normally and around 11 towing, which I think is pretty darn good. I've got dual exhausts with stock manifolds, the 2 bbl carb, electronic ignition and the oil bath air cleaner! Can other stuff make it better? Sure, but it comes at a cost. An intake and carb will cost money, and while many report improved performance and sometimes even economy you've really got to size the carb correctly. The tendency is to go too large and the stock cam/valve size and so forth really can't utilize it, so unless you plan on spending thousands on a full rebuild stay conservative. Conservative is NOT a tri-power intake, which is very sexy but pretty impractical and can be a bugger to tune. Headers will make a difference but there's downsides: they frequently leak, you've got a good chance of snapping off the mounting bolts when you remove the manifolds, they will heat/ruin starters if not shielded and, oh, they will leak. A Pertronix or Duraspark ignition will improve starting and economy and is simple enough to do.

For the shifting, one common ailment that afflicts these trucks is rusty cab mounts. If the cab starts to sag forward on the frame, it can cause the linkage to bind. If yours are in good order, then it may just be technique or some worn bushings in the linkage. You'll never speed shift one of these, and a worn syncro will also make things balky. I switched to a synthetic gear oil to try to help mine but it didn't really make any difference. Slow and steady seems to work with the shifters; forcing them does not.

One upside is these trucks are generally so simple even a know-nothing with a basic set of tools can do quite a bit to them with a little coaching from his internet pals.

 

John,
Thank you for your advice. I will try the suggested shifting method and report back. In general, that is similar to my method so I will adjust and report back soon.

The inlaws have numerous 73-76 trucks in various stages of life. Will see if they have one that will work for the swap. I'll see what I can find and go from there. I also plan to post a few pictures so you guys can see what I'm working with...

 

ddavid,
Thanks for the info. I will check out your how-to on the conversion. I'm limited on space at the house but do have access to a large shop and lots of tools as my in-laws farm lots of acreage in SE Mo.

I will start with the valve cover gasket first and if that's not the fix will move on to the intake. That sounds a bit more of a project so may enlist the help of others if it comes to that.

I agree with you on the power steering but my wife doesn't like to drive it as that effects her confidence. I figured I'd inquire about the difficulty. If easy enough I hoped it would win me some brownie points.

I agree on the engine advice input. I've picked up on the popularity of the ignition update reading several other post on FTE. I will look into that. Any preference on one vs the other? I was hesitant to post being such a rookie but really appreciate the input and guidance. I know I'll keep leveraging the expertise of guys like you as I learn.

Finally the cab mounts are good so I'm interested in looking into possible bushings or syncro. I know there are a couple other post on those items so I guess I'll read up.

 

I would go with the ''Pertronix'' ignition! it's real simple to install and if it ever fails, a quick change back to your old points system and your back on the road! can't do that with a Duraspark! and I have seen a lot of the Duraspark modules fail and your stuck unless you have a second module with you?..something to think about, good luck on your venture!