I attempt this post previously but a system quirk submitted it before the entry was finished, hopefully this one makes it through.
After reading many posts about fuel pump replacements I tried it on my '95 Clubwagon (5.8L) but I am having a potentially serious issue.
Initially I dropped the tank, disconnected everything and replaced the pump. The most difficult part was the tank straps (as others have stated) and some wrestling with the so called 'quick release' lines (don't get me started). The replacement pump was OE that I purchased online. Everything went back together somewhat ok (more later), the tank went back up, the van started but I could feel a small fuel leak. So the tank came back down, I reworked one of the lines, stopped the leak and this time left the tank on the ground under the van to make sure the lines held dry. (I had to replace the fuel lines with after market kits and wanted to make sure they held).
Again, I turned the ignition to power (not start) a couple of times to pressurize the lines and check for leaks. The lines held. What startled me completely this time though was what sounded like an electrical pop and short sizzle that sounded like it was coming from the rear of the van. I investigated. I had a helper turn the ignition a couple of times until I located the source of the sound. I almost jumped out of my skin when I realized the electrical sizzle was coming from inside the tank!!! I immediately unhooked all electricals.
Not to sound completely moronic but I'm guessing this isn't normal. I've turned a lot of wrenches in 25+ years of shadetree work but this my first in-tank fuel pump replacement.
I'll add a couple more details. First, the pump I purchased came with its own connector which had to be soldered to the wiring harness. I hadn't seen this step on other posts here but I pressed forward and followed the enclosed Ford instructions to the letter to ensure the wiring was matched. (I even checked the resistance on a test splice just to make sure solder technique was good.) I took some pics of the finished product before heat shrinking and wrapping the lines. (by now you may be thinking what I am). Secondly, the other thing that didn't sit right with me was that the new pump was spring loaded and had to be compressed before locking it in place with the locking ring. Anyone else have this difference?
So I'm counting on you experienced E-van owners with fuel pump experience to tell me...am I hearing electrical pop and sizzle or is this just the sound of the pump kicking on/off? Would anyone recommend pulling that pump and dumping it for yet another new one? I was thinking "crossed wires" but if that were the case I would expected the pump to not have allowed the van to start the first time. The wrong fuel pump maybe? When it comes to mixing fuel and electricity I'm not beyond having her towed and wrenched by someone else despite years of rarely letting someone else mechanically touch my cars. But I thought I'd throw this here for opinion first.

 

that definitely doesn't sound normal. i fuel pump should produce a steady buzz, not a pop-sizzle kind of game. that sounds like its trying to short-circuit or has a poor connection. based on your statements about your work, it sounds like your wiring and insulating would be ok, leaving me to suspect something is wrong inside the pump.

you don't want to know how many defective parts i've seen come from who-knows-where on the interwebs, so every part i ever buy is local. at least if it goes wrong i have someone to bring it back to.

i would take the pump out of the tank, dry it out, and run it for just a second or two at a time to try to pinpoint the issue. either you find a bad connection and fix it, or you don't and send it back if you can, then go to your local parts store and pick up a good one

 

Thanks for the reply Josh. Your reply brings another question.

When the tank was installed for the first test, as I was blindly feeling the fuel lines for leaks I recall feeling the 'buzz' you mention. But during the second test with the tank on the ground I don't remember a 'buzz'. Anybody know if these tanks are designed to be grounded by frame contact alone? The idea of grounding electricals through the surrounding FLAMMABLE fluid and to the frame doesn't seem like a good idea.

 

i'm not sure off the top of my head, but a common setup is to have the pump ground to the access hatch (sending unit assy) on top of the tank, and that to be grounded to the body with an outside wire. with that, the grounding isn't through the fuel but through the tank. in that typical system, a failure of the ground wire from tank to body will often produce an intermittent fuel pump because its a poor ground
if you want an extra test, you could attach a temoporary ground wire from tank to body and see if it changes, but i suspect the problem is in the pump itself

 

The sound you heard most likely was the pump pressuring the fuel system for start-up. The pump cycles for a few seconds when the ignition is turned to on.

As for the quick release of the fuel lines it is best to get new clips from the parts store and just break the old ones to get them off, this may have been an issue with the leak by reusing the old clips.

As for the second issue if you replaced the o-ring you will have an issue with the "spring loading" if you did not replace the o-ring then you should next time around.

With the amount of work required to pull the tank all those parts should be new from a good source.

 

Josh...after some close examination of the old fuel pump I saw where the sender ground appeared to only be grounded to the assembly's top. The pump had both ground and hot running to the pump. I also thought of running an extra ground back to the body but went with another solution instead.

Struwing...I'm willing to believe the pump pressurization has its own sound but 'pop...sizzle' isn't a very comforting one.
My Clubwagon had the original pump in it...those weren't spring loaded. I looked around more online and it looks like all of today's designs seem to have springs that have to be compressed while the locking ring is put back on. And all replacement parts were new btw (o-ring, lock ring, line clips, etc.)...I agree, might as well do it all while the tank is down.

Thanks for the feedback on my problem. I'm convinced this is a case of a bad pump so I went with the idea of popping out the replacement pump. It's out and will go back to the retailer asap. A new pump will go in as time permits.

For anyone who is interested, it appears from a closer examination of the replacement pump (which was Motorcraft btw) that the revision over the 1995 model pump was to also run a ground wire to the sender unit and not rely on grounding through the assembly. A better design, imo and I'm guessing might possibly have eliminated the need for tank-to-frame grounding.