I went back and re-read the first bit... I don't see anyone else asking, and I don't see you telling so I will ask:
5) Does it have a fan shroud?

Without a shroud the old flatties get overheated easy (some would say always overheat). I tend to assume a 351w would as well (only vehicle I ever drove with a 351w had a huge electric fan and yes a shroud).

 

Nope. The fan is decidedly unshrouded...

 

Well see now there's your problem right there :P


One very important step left out in these instructions for a DIY at home, no pressurized backflush machine method: Take the thermostat out

Reason why, you are pouring COLD water in the top, and that will keep the thermostat closed all the time. Think of it as 2 separate closed loop systems
1) pump to radiator
2) pump to engine

Only when the normally closed path (radiator to engine) gets opened (at 180 degrees) does water flow... if you are pouring 50 degree water in the top the t-stat will never open.

A few tree hugger EPA types will also gripe about disposal, since it is on your immediately to do list I will address it for you.
Ethylene Glycol is biodegradeable. (reaserched on the net )
Auto stores like Oreilly will NOT take it (due to the miniscule amounts of lead and other heavy metals - microscopic levels).
A very reasonable way to dispose of it is to pour it out on dirt (not asphalt) and water it down like 100:1 (i.e. take the truck out back and park on a good slope so you can get the block tilted forward, then drain and flush, and then finish by washing the truck off).
Lock up the dog so it can't have drink, and don't do it where neighbor dog can get into it.
(I know there will be a ton of people who say take it to a recycling center - that's an option too, probably have to pay big bux to get them to take it if they will. Welcome to the modern green, eco-friendly america.)

 

Thanks for the info. I am thinking the the problem is more than just the fan. I figure the PO ran it for several years with the unshrouded fan and it must've been OK. But I hope to get a new fancy radiator from classic haulers with a shrouded fan etc. So hopefully that will help. My current radiator is old and junky looking and a nice looking new one will do my heart good

As far as the coolant disposal is concerned, there is actually no antifreeze in it. I know that brings the boiling temp up, so maybe I should put some in and that might help the gurgling if it is indeed related to boiling and flash vaporizing. My reason for no ethylene glycol is just that I am not really running this engine hard or very often, just around the neighborhood and it ain't gonna freeze. I figured on running it just a couple of times before tear down, but that is proving not to be the case. So I'll flush it and put some in.

t

 

A properly working cooling system under no load, and no harsh conditions (i.e. not towing and not stop and go metro). Probably won't fluxuate more than 10 degrees off t-stat once up to temp. (i.e. if your t-stat is 180 as I think it should be, your engine will vary from 170-190 just puttering around the block with no demand). Even if it was 20 degrees each way, that still gives you 12 degrees margin before boil. So save the bucks on the antifreeze since you'd just be throwing it away in a couple months anyhow. (I would have cracked block already, but you are blessed with bahama temps down there in AZ)

I was teasing in best Bill Engval style about "There's your problem" - I really can't tell you if that is your whole problem till we find out if they system is engineered right and if you have any other issues. (And being a light sider I wouldn't be the person to tell you if it is engineered right, I could only tell you if it is grossly cobbled together farm-gineered style)

I had a t-stat seize shut on me in an OT vehicle years ago after I let it sit for a summer. My suspicion is that you have a closed up t-stat.

 

I've started the process of backwashing and thermostat replacement...

Here are a couple of pics I took of my t stat. Notice the last one that shows the two pebbles or chunks of sediment that I found in the throat of the t stat housing! Nice.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I am headed to O'Reilly's for a new t stat, new hoses, maybe a new coolant inlet if they have that...and to dump the brake fluid from my last project

t

 

A suggestion on preventing rust and decay. Use distilled water and antifreeze to refill. - No point flushing it all out and getting it clean then putting regular tap mineral water back in (the antifreeze has some rust prohibiting agents in it too).

 

Good call on replacing the radiator - if your thermostat looks like that - think what the inside of your radiator looks like. Your water pump may not look much better. Has your son been helping?

Ben in Austin

 

Is that thermostat installed the right way? Or is it backwards? I put the new one in the same way so I hope it's right. My temp gauge is working and showing the engine running about 200ish IF it's accurate. I drove it for about 15 or 20 minutes and it still acts the same way. Lots of clunking and chugging and gurgling after I shut it down. I am going to post a video. Maybe that will help.

 

From your pictures I would say yes that is installed correctly. The "hat" portion goes towards the radiator, and the coils (temp sensative side) goes in the head/block.

What is the new t-stat rated at, is it 180?

Did you put in pure water, or a mix?

200 in the head (where the sensor is) is a bit too high for my comfort.

Is it peeing all over the driveway?

How did the flush go - what came out in the bucket... little red flakes, big nasty chunks like the t-stat pix?

 

I don't know what the t stat is rated at. I bought one for a 351W 1969 year. Was that not ok?

I put in about 33% antifreeze 66% water...1% something else

Not leaking at all unless I pop the radiator cap. Then a good bit pouted out the over flow and stops quickly.

The flush was filthy. Brown water with lots of sand like sediment and rust flakes. Both from the radiator side and the block side. I will post pics later this evening. But it ran clear after a short while.

I am thinking my water pump is not working well and is gummed up with sediment. My radiator needs replacing too. Maybe I should put all that off til I overhaul, then replace it all in the "new" engine.

 

Hey Tyler,
Not leaking at all" is a win! We need to celebrate wins in this game - even small ones. You will not run at optimal temperature until you have a fan shroud on there. Also if you run a bit more antifreeze it should raise your boil point -might get rid of some of that gurgling.

Not sure I'd stick a new waterpump on there until you do your engine work. My experience is that that they will leak & make some noticeable noise if they are bad.

Ben in Austin

 

If you got just about any major brand (stant, etc), then they put the temp rating and installation directions on the box. Double check me with the packaging just to be sure on installation, the 180 spec was just a guess - have to get a darksider or old timer to chime on that one.
Generally speaking you should have been given a choice at the parts shop "Do you want the stock, summer, winter, or the high performace?" which yields 2-3 different temps. If the tech just assumed you are building a hot rod...

Hmm.... I had rust flakes for a good 5 minutes. I "double" flushed mine. That is I removed the upper and lower and got everything out the big holes both forward and backward.
Then also flushed it with the engine running (took out the t-stat, put the hoses back on, and opened the petcock - setting the garden hose input up top to flow just as fast as the petcock drained. I t took a lot more than "a short while".

Run it for a little bit, then drain out a sample (not a shotglass, more like a 12oz beer sized sample) into a clean container from the petcock. If you still have nasty coming out then I didn't give you good enough instructions and we didn't get a good flush. If the fluid is good, then put it your fluid back in.

I concur with Ben, any win is a blessing on these old girls. WooHoo

I also concur with Ben - get yourself a shroud (unless you are doing the lower power 302 replacement)

Please tell me the "something else" isn't cleaner (with leaks adding cleaner which is just a caustic acid you end up with more leaks).

I'm betting if I know you it is a sealer, right?

 

Lol! The "something else" was fascicious. I realized 33%+66% was only 99%. I just put in antifreeze and water.

Where is the petcock? So rust flakes are not a death sentence?

I noticed the water pump pulley has a little play in it. I can sort of rock it back and forth a little maybe 1/8 inch of play at the edge of the pulley wheel. Is that normal?

Thanks for all your help and advice guys.

T

 

I got the t stat at O'Reilly's. The techs were a little clueless. It's the most convenient shop, but I'm not impressed with their knowledge. They didn't offer me any options on the t stat and it came with no instructions.