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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 12:14 PM
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Question Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

I've done a lot of mechanical things in my days, but never replaced lower ball joints. Mine need replaced on my 1998 Expedition 4X4, and the service guy sez 2.4hrs labor for each. (and that means more $$$$) I'm thinking about taking this on over the weekend in my garage......can anybody give me some good words of wisdom? Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 04:27 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

I've never done them either, but how hard can they be? There was a post a week or so ago whereby a fellow Expy owner did a similar job. He indicated that it wasn't a big deal. See if you can find the post using the search feature.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 11:59 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

Hi shinew,
Did you replace them?
If you didnt yet I can send you some instructions. It's not a real difficult job but you'll need a few tools you may not have such as a ball joint press and a 36mm socket.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2003 | 09:17 AM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

Could you post the instructions for this please? I need to do it soon. thanks, bryan
 
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Old Jul 20, 2003 | 05:33 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

Is your's a 4x4 too?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2003 | 06:29 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

yes it is. thanks. bryan
 
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Old Jul 20, 2003 | 06:30 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

yes it is. thanks. bryan
 
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Old Jul 20, 2003 | 11:12 PM
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Lower Ball Joints Removal/Installation

Ok here goes. I havent done a set of balljoints in a couple weeks but I'll try to explain it
I'm assuming you're just replacing the lower ball joints as they are what wears out usually.
You will need a ball joint press with the right adapters for your ball joints, a 36 mm socket with a long breaker bar and an assortment of normal sockets etc.

Jack the truck up and put a jackstand under the lower control arm, usually it can go in the big squarish hole in the middle so it doesnt slip out.
Remove the wheel.
Unplug the ABS wire connector near the front of the frame and unclip it from on the frame.
Remove the 2 big bolts (usually 18mm heads) that hold the brake caliper support to the steering knuckle.
Tie the caliper and support to the frame above the upper control arm or somewhere there so it's out of the way.
Remove the cotter pin, retainer and 36mm nut from the end of the axle.
Take a brass punch or piece of wood etc and hammer on the end of the axle to make sure it is free in the hub. It has to push in.
Remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joint nuts.
Remove the nuts.
Hammer near the top of the steering knuckle to pop the upper ball joint stud out of it.
Do the same with the lower or use a "pickle fork" to pop the lower ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
Dont use a pickle fork on any ball joint that you are going to reuse.
Turn the steering the whole way to the side of the truck you're working on. This make more clearance to remove the axle from the hub.
Or you can remove the tie rod end from the knuclke and remove the whole knuckle. I usually just leave it connected and tie the knuckle out of the way, usually set it on top of the sway bar end and tie it there.
Now the knuckle is out of the way so you can remove the snap ring on the lower ball joint and pound the ball joint out of the control arm or use the ball joint press to remove it.
Install the new ball joint with the ball joint press and reassemble everything in reverse order.
The axle nut gets torqued to 175-225 ft lb I believe. Or about as tight as you can get it with a decent length breaker bar.
Use new cotter pins in all the places you took them out of.
Pump the brakes a few times before you take off.

Let me know if you have any questions about any of this. It's easier to do than to explain
 
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