'95 5.8L efi going into my '49 pickup
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Are you planning on running that entire harness with that massive fuse block? Most of that is unneeded. I was able to hack the engine harness off the connection block and hardwired it into the cut ECU pigtail. The distributor, ignition module, and MAF (if equipped) need to be powered by a switched 12V source. Then obviously the ECU needs to be grounded and powered up as needed... but off the top of my head it's fairly simple.
She's all blown out now! I did take it apart to see what it's made up of.
I gotta get another 60 pin connector for the ECU
I was a little rough on taking pins out and broke a few pin retainers
I figure for the cost of a pre-made harness, I can afford...oh...about 100 screw-ups???? I don't learn anything if I don't screw up! Thanks for your input!
edit: no MAF...It's a speed density setup.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Mankato, MN
Well at first I was thinking I HAD to, but no I just have it because it was part of the harness. The pic you see, of the harness was before this past weekend!
She's all blown out now! I did take it apart to see what it's made up of.
I gotta get another 60 pin connector for the ECU I was a little rough on taking pins out and broke a few pin retainers
I figure for the cost of a pre-made harness, I can afford...oh...about 100 screw-ups???? I don't learn anything if I don't screw up! Thanks for your input!
edit: no MAF...It's a speed density setup.
She's all blown out now! I did take it apart to see what it's made up of.
I gotta get another 60 pin connector for the ECU
I was a little rough on taking pins out and broke a few pin retainersI figure for the cost of a pre-made harness, I can afford...oh...about 100 screw-ups???? I don't learn anything if I don't screw up! Thanks for your input!
edit: no MAF...It's a speed density setup.
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From: Central Mississippi
The remote TFI is an upgrade over the dist mount to keep (it) from over heating. Just use plenty of dielectric grease if replaced or removed from heat sink block before re-installing. What was replaced in my dist is the "PIP", profile ignition pickup, which has a habit of going out after about a 100k. It is part of the short little stub harness that comes out of the dist.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Mississippi
"Most" 5.8s are a single O2 trucks (my 94 is), but I think you said your doner was 95. I'll try & look at a wiring diagram today & get some info.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Pekin, IL
Hey I appreciate that! But I have a good connection at a local salvage yard, probably free there and plan on going tomorrow. I will let ya know if I need one, thanks for the offer though!
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah that would work fine.. exhaust is exhaust but it will add to the clutter a little and produce more carbon buildup in the intake. Your choice of course.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Pekin, IL
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
dumb question: TAD,TAB,EVR
Ok I am just getting confused now! Which one is which and where are they?
I think the EVR is mounted to the bracket against the coil? My haynes manual isn't real bad but I am not clear on these. thanks!
I think the EVR is mounted to the bracket against the coil? My haynes manual isn't real bad but I am not clear on these. thanks!
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Mankato, MN
I realized that mine was for a batch fire 4.9L It wouldn't have worked.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Another question...A wire for the ignition has the "aluminum shielding" around it/them, is there something out there to add on to that, due to needing to lengthen the wiring?
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Logistics Pro
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From: Pekin, IL
I really am posting this to pick at Scndsin's brain, but obviously feel free to comment...
I removed my air pump and was playing with the belt routing. It seems to me that this will work using the standard length belt. The upper idler can be replaced with a pulley that is designed for the rib side of the belt, losing any chance of it derailing, which may not even be an issue. also I wonder if there are different diameter idler pulley's if needed for a better tensioner position. My p/s pulley is off because I need to replace the pump housing and other reasons. What do you think?
I removed my air pump and was playing with the belt routing. It seems to me that this will work using the standard length belt. The upper idler can be replaced with a pulley that is designed for the rib side of the belt, losing any chance of it derailing, which may not even be an issue. also I wonder if there are different diameter idler pulley's if needed for a better tensioner position. My p/s pulley is off because I need to replace the pump housing and other reasons. What do you think?
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From: Central Mississippi
Yep, that's the basic way I did it in the first version with the stock belt. But it had a tendency to squeal for a few seconds at start-up. As well as the belt running so high, just daring me to get my pony tail or fingers close to it.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Pekin, IL
Looking at my pic again and reading your thoughts, i will route it w/o the upper idler.