Hi guys,
I spend most of my time in the '48-'56 forum, but thought it was time to get some input here. I have installed the '95 351W efi speed density setup, with an AOD behind it. The AOD will be gone through and warmed up a bit. The 5.8/351W is going to remain stock with all the '95 externals. I just tore into the factory '95 efi wiring harness, got it all separated. I spend most of last winter studying the efi stuff at fordfuelinjection.com
I am running ceramicoated shorty headers for the 86-93 mustang, they fit my application real nicely. This project is a 2 wheel drive.
One question is: I read here that the EGR eliminator kit from RJM does not work,so I need to run the EGR?
I also want to get rid of the air pump. How do I go about that? Is there a belt change, only? I try to use as much salvage yard stuff as possible. This isn't gonna be a trailer queen, and not a daily driver either. My goal is to have the truck moving on it's own power by next year before winter.
I probably left out some stuff, but I will just start with this for now.
Conanski has answered a couple questions for me and he is a great help!
I just wanted to make a thread out of this to possibly help someone else out.
This is gonna be a cool ride when it's done! At least that's my opinion!
Oh...I'm Jeff...Nicolle is the finance dept.

 

Welcome and I hope you will show us some pictures of this truck.

Without re-programming ($$) the ECU you will need to run EGR or cruising performance will suffer. EGR is bypassed at WOT.

I would weld a bung onto the headers and keep the EGR, I run Long tubes with the EGR on mine.

You can delete the AIR pump, some people have used a shorter belt or you can get a delete kit (just an idler puller and bracket) for a mustang (~$40) from summit or somewhere.

 

The Guys on the '48-'56 forum like pics, so I thought I would throw a couple in.
I am using a gas tank from a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. the fuel pumps in those run the same pressure as our Fords.

 

I must have been posting pics during your reply. I was hoping to not mess up the ceramicoat on the headers, can I tie it into the exhaust down below the header?
That idler kit sounds like the way to go. Thanks!

 

That is a nice looking project!

 

Thanks for the compliment! It's a LONG way from done though. I gotta say, your avatar Bronco looks like the "Ted Nugent" Bronco. You know the one I'm talking about? I had a '66 Bronco and a '78 Bronco I loved them both. I restored the '78 and lifted it 4". I spent so much money on it, when it was done I had to sell it to pay off the credit card...

 

I've been following your build for a while. (I like to read the older truck forums, lots of "building" goes on.)

As far as EGR goes, some can run OK with it, others, not so much. It seems to be a 50/50 crapshoot condition of the individual ECU programing as to whether or not it'll do OK without it. As mentioned, you'll need a bung on the front of the passenger side header to feed the valve. If you look in my album you can see where its located on my JBA shorties.

Also in my albums are pics of running a shorter belt to bypass the air pump & how I routed it. I think I used a 96.8 inch belt. You can also lop off the excess bracing from the bracket after removal & do a little grinding to make it look a lot nicer.

(on edit)

You might investigate crossing a fox mustang system of "feeding" the truck system's egr. Maybe running a feed pipe from the head pipe where it dumps out of the headers to keep from drilling a hole in your in your coating.

 

You can keep the computer happy wrt the EGR without physically connecting a tube to the exhaust, simply put a blockoff plate between the valve and intake and connect the vacuum and electrical normally. The valve with go through the motions but the computer is none the wiser that it's not really doing anything since there is no flow sensor in this system, so no codes and it won't have much if any noticable effect on engine operation as the timing/fuel trims made for EGR are minor anyway.

 

SCNDSIN: thanks! I will look at your albums tonight! I remember having communication with you before but don't specifically remember exactly what about...anyway thanks again!

Conanski: after reading your post I feel like an idiot...thanks again!
I have been accused of being smart occasionally...but I was never proven guilty...sounds like a simple solution to me.
But while I am asking about this stuff. I am assuming that I CAN'T tie the EGR into the exhaust pipe after the header/s? Would that not work? It seems to me that it would, or is it simply too far away from the intake? Just curious....I will do the block off plate, it will be a simple task, but I gotta ask questions ya know!

 

I was looking at your albums and don't see pics of the air pump/ belt/ bracket clean-up. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place?

 

Its the pic you commented on. The upper idler is not used. Not too sure I can find the belt # but I'll try. I'm fairly sure it was 96.8 inches. The way I did it was to use some pretty heavy nylon rope to give me a starting point, measure the inside of the loop pulled out straight, then double it for a starting point around 95. I'm lucky enough to have a mom & pop parts store who would let me swap belts till I came up with the right one so there is no particular application I know of. There also is a pic of how I used the original full length belt, but it would squall for a few seconds when started, then stop.

 

I guess I needed to click on "show all albums" I found it. You can ALMOST read that belt # in the pic! nice job btw!

 

Ok, I wasn't able to get the O2 sensor because It wasn't there. I don't know if the salvage yard took it or what. but the tranny was out before I got the motor.
I thought "no biggie" ...now I have the harness apart and don't really know what the connector is supposed to look like. There are two factory capped connectors..one on each side. I assume that the harness is somewhat universal 5.0L-5.8L but not sure. Are they a three wire? two wire? does anybody have a pic of the right connector? The examples on fordfuelinjection.com are like the previous two I mentioned. Of course the site is based on mustang swaps, not specifically my senario. I would simply use the one(capped) on the pass. side and repin the 60 pin computer connector if it's compatible for my application. the capped connectors are both 3-wire.

 

I am sorry for all the questions about this swap. Probably like answering questions for a 2-year old My TFI is the remote black style. It's mounted in the aluminum heat sink. Is that a good unit? I mean as good as the distributor mounted unit? SCNDSIN, I saw something on yours about the replacement of the wiring from the dist. to yours. Is that just a fluke problem or a common one?

 

Are you planning on running that entire harness with that massive fuse block? Most of that is unneeded. I was able to hack the engine harness off the connection block and hardwired it into the cut ECU pigtail. The distributor, ignition module, and MAF (if equipped) need to be powered by a switched 12V source. Then obviously the ECU needs to be grounded and powered up as needed... but off the top of my head it's fairly simple.