chainsaw suggestions
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
I hand sharpen mine. The dealer will have file plates/guides and I believe Stihl's web site has a How To video on it. You can take it to the dealer to have it done, but in all reality, it should be touched up after every tank of gas. If you contact the ground it need's sharpened immediatly. There are marks on the cutter's to show you the angle to file. Make sure you keep the file level and file into the pocket, (straight back towards the power head) not down into the chain. As far as depth gauges you can lay a flat file across two cutters and if the file is sitting on it, it needs filed down. I dont know what size round file you need, so contact your dealer.
Remember the angles you sharpen at, and how low your Raker's (depth gauge teeth) are will determine how aggressive it cuts. If you put too much angle on them it will dull fast, but cut like an animal (depending on your rakers) If it isnt a steep enough angle it will not cut good at all! If your raker's are too high, it will cut slow and poorly, if they are too low it will cut fast, as it will allow more cutter into the wood. However if too low, your Powerhead and clutch might not handle the extra bite!
Remember the angles you sharpen at, and how low your Raker's (depth gauge teeth) are will determine how aggressive it cuts. If you put too much angle on them it will dull fast, but cut like an animal (depending on your rakers) If it isnt a steep enough angle it will not cut good at all! If your raker's are too high, it will cut slow and poorly, if they are too low it will cut fast, as it will allow more cutter into the wood. However if too low, your Powerhead and clutch might not handle the extra bite!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
There is way more to it, but you will learn that on your own! Like when you sharpen 1 side better than the other and cut to 1 side or the other. cut will look like this ( ! Dont forget to file the burrs of the bar once in awhile, and flip the bar over now and than to get even wear. Keep the chain tight, you should beable to lift the chain off the bar, and it should snap back into the bar with no sag. Too tight you will overheat the bar, to loose you will throw the chain easily and cause wierd wear on the bar.
WEAR CHAP'S AND AT THE VERY LEAST REALLY GOOD STEEL TOE BOOT'S. (they have boot's with kevlar in them, but they are expensive) Chainsaw's performance dwindles fast if the operator dont have leg's or feet!
You should also loosen the chain before storage. The hot chain will shrink, (not alot, but some) and as it shrink's it will get tighter, the tighter it get's the harder it will pull on the crank and sprocket nose, causing premature wear.
WEAR CHAP'S AND AT THE VERY LEAST REALLY GOOD STEEL TOE BOOT'S. (they have boot's with kevlar in them, but they are expensive) Chainsaw's performance dwindles fast if the operator dont have leg's or feet!
You should also loosen the chain before storage. The hot chain will shrink, (not alot, but some) and as it shrink's it will get tighter, the tighter it get's the harder it will pull on the crank and sprocket nose, causing premature wear.
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