31 and 33 are for the EGR valve and it position sensor. And Code 41 indicates a H02 Sensor lean condition.

I am taking it I should most likely replace these items??

I am wondering if this is causing some of my problems with my EFI system. The problem I am having is that bank one of the injectors (Cylinders 2,3,5,6) are staying open, floding those cylinders out. If I unplug the EEC and replug it back in it usually goes away. I have tried a new EEC, and it went away but then while idling it did it again. Check engine light is on also. I'll be pulling the new codes this week to see what else I might be dealing with.

Any suggestions

 

What's the year of your truck?

If you are going to start replacing things, I would do only one at a time. I don't think that the EGR would affect the flooding problem, so it sounds like you could have two unrelated problems. But if the O2 sensor is giving a false lean, I could see why flooding might be happening. There are other things that could cause a lean condition, so do some troubleshooting.

You may want to just inspect the EGR. Take it apart and give it a good cleaning, make sure all the passages are clean.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Nov-02 AT 10:14 AM (EST)]The truck is a 91 f150 with a 302. I have cleaned the EGR valve and nothing. As for the flooding. its just those injectors in bank one that are staying wide open. bank two works perfect and if i swap injectors nothing problems stays with bank one.

Also the type of flooding is serious where the oil pan will fill full of gas, and also part of the exhaust system. Plugs look good, just wet!

please help

 

I think you whole problem starts with the flooding... The injectors or control of the injectors are bad and have let gass get into the exhaust. Then thats what killed the egr valve. The o2 code is because the egr valve isn't working. The egr sensor. is showing up because the valve isn't moving right. I spent 400 dollars in sensors, and diagnostic time to no avail just to change the egr valve and have all th problems go away.

 

Can you tell if the injectors are staying open all of the time or is the pulse width just too long? If they stay open all the time, I would check for a short in the injector wiring. To do this properly, you'll need a wiring diaram.

 

Oh they are staying open all the time. I am pretty sure its shorting out somewhere. Just have to find it not. I am think ing the insulation wore through on the harness some where and due to vibration it shorts it self out every now and then. Guess i just have to find it next time this happens 9hoepfully not for a long time)

Corey

 

It might be possible to find this with just a visual inspection, so you may not have to wait to find the problem. Since it's happening to the whole bank of injectors, the short would be located somewhere common to all 4 injectors. Getting gas in the oil is not great for your engine. If possible, I wouldn't put it off until the next time it happens.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Nov-02 AT 10:50 PM (EST)]ok.....i like to think i can fix everything too but, MY GOD MAN TAKE IT TO THE FORD DEALER AND HAVE THEM FIX IT!! cylinders filling up with gas......unplugging the EEC......your just asking for trouble arent u?

also, i thought you could reset the EEC by simply disconnecting the battery cable.

hey, how do you know when its filling the cylinders up with gas? could it be that those cylinders are just not firing?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Nov-02 AT 08:07 AM (EST)]Its easy to tell when the injectors stay open, it runs like crap! If it is idling the idle will drop and the exhaust will start to smoke. I know the cylinders are firing cause if I take a wire off the plug and check it, they are getting the correct voltage and firing perfectly.

And I don't take my cars or trucks or anything to dealers. They have their heads up thier a$$'s!! I am very knowledgable about fords and with the help from great people on here who needs a dealer!

Anyways it happened again this weekend. I loaded my bike up for a race in IL and I had it idling. After I got the bike on it started to idle like crap and what not. So I figured I would take a look at the harness resistance and continuity. Shut the motor off and checked. Iunplugged the 4 injectors, and checked the resistance 3 ohms, just where it should be. Then i checkedpin 59 (bank 2) to ground. I had to check it at the connecter just past the EEC (could connect to pin 59 good) and it all looked good. Plugged that connector back in and fired her up on 4 cylinders, plugged in a fith injector, ran better then another and another. Everything seemed to work great.

Drove 45 miles to a friends house, then 100 miles to IL for the race, and 150 miles back home later that day. No problems at all. Got me. Maybe it was in that connector? All I know it seems to work, but for how long, at least i know it is somewhere in the injector harness.

Thanks for all your help.

 

Im just curious have you disturbed intake manifold or throttle body gaskets (had the intake manifold off)? Your problem sounds suspiciously like a vacumm leak.
As for the computer never has one component been blamed for more trouble and needlessly replaced (expensive & never fixes the problem)
Unless your refering to the little screw on computer (ignition module) on the distributor, kinda expensive but replace if theres any mysterious intermittent engine trouble. the trouble with the eec-Iv system ignition module is it gets heat damaged over time.
I would also unplug and take your injector harness right out and clean it and inspect it for melted wires, hardened cracked plastic etc. If its questionable just get one from the wreakers and be done with it. incidently vacumm lines running behind engine can melt holes in them as well, its not the best place for wires and hoses.