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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

need help 1996 ford

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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need help 1996 ford

I have a 1996 f150 302 automatic. Recently its started dying when I come to a stop every once in a while and it will quit while I'm driving. When it first started it would just about die then take back off but now when it dies it won't start for a while then it will start right up, I stuck a screwdriver in the coil wire and it didn't fire so I tried another coil and it didn't change anything but I tried it today and it started right up and I drove it around for probably 30 minutes and it quit again and if I let it set for 10 or 15 minutes it will start back up. I'm pretty sure its a firing problem but if its not the coil what could it be. What should I try
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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When it dies, do you still have battery power? (lights, radio, ect.)
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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Yea it will still crank but it won't start, I check codes and it has two but it has always had them. One is insufficent egr flow and an 02 sensor code
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Those are things you should address. You have to check and see if you have spark and fuel. You can borrow a fuel rail pressure gauge at most auto part stores, that's a quick and easy way to check the fuel situation. Why do you think its a spark issue?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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This sounds like a TFI(ignition) module problem, when they start to go they often become intermittent. If you do replace it be sure to use the same color one you have now and a Ford part if possible, some of the aftermarket versions are complete junk. The TFI module directly fires the coil also.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Because I couldn't get any fire at the spark plug or at the end of the coil wire that hooks to the distributor. Also I put a new fuel filter in it and I have two tanks and it does it on both tanks. Ill cjeck fuel pressure tomorrow
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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Conanski, is that the part on the inside of the fender that has one connector, the part I think your talking about use to be on the side of the distributor?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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I had the same problem a while back. I replaced the coil...same problem. I replaced the ignition module......same problem. I then replaced the distributor and now it works fine. There is a sensor down in the distributor that goes bad. It will cause an intermittent no spark problem. It could also be the ignition module. If you change it make sure you get correct one. Yours should be black. The one all the parts stores will give you is gray and this is wrong. Their computers show the wrong part. I asked for a module for a 95 mustang gt to make sure I got the right one.
 

Last edited by perryau1996; Nov 2, 2011 at 11:23 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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I have/had the same problem, with at totally different cause (of course). Mine was Fuel pump wiring. The TFI module may be on the dizzy or on the fender in a heatsink.
The sensor perry is referring to is the PIP sensor. I believe you can just replace that, if it's bad.
Also check the power to the coil, I had an intermittent problem caused by a loose connection. By the end of this, you and your multimeter should be good friends.
-Mike
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jb65542
Conanski, is that the part on the inside of the fender that has one connector, the part I think your talking about use to be on the side of the distributor?
I will answer for Paul, you are correct. You should have a black TFI module mounted on the driver side inner fender.

I will also add the later version black TFI modules rarely go bad. The other part that triggers the TFI is called the PIP (aka Stator) inside the distributor. It is much more susceptible to heat related failure.

I reference this from time to time:

Ford Fuel Injection » Stator (RPM)
SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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Thanks I got one, now I'm gonna wait for it to quit me again so I can change it and hope it fixes it
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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it quit me again today and i tried the ignition module and it didnt change anything but i did notice that when i was setting there with the key on the fuel pump would run the it would start for a second then quit again. the fuel pump runs everytime i turn the key on like its suppose to but when it run i had the key on already just sitting there
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jb65542
it quit me again today and i tried the ignition module and it didnt change anything but i did notice that when i was setting there with the key on the fuel pump would run the it would start for a second then quit again. the fuel pump runs everytime i turn the key on like its suppose to but when it run i had the key on already just sitting there
I am not following your statement above....sorry

Are you saying the fuel pump runs all the time when you have the key in the ON position?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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No I was setting in the truck with the key on waiting on some help and the fuel pump run for a couple seconds then quit then I tried starting it and it started for a second then quit and wouldn't start again
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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The fuel pump should turn on for a few seconds when the key is first turned to the On position then shut off. After that the PCM turns on the fuel pump via a relay once it sees the signal from the PIP. A bad PIP would keep the coil from firing, perhaps if the signal is that unstable it could be falsely triggering the PCM as well from time to time.
 
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