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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

BRAKE LIGHTS!!

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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BRAKE LIGHTS!!

So i was driving a week ago and both my brake light and the rear abs light came on. The fluid level in the master was a tad over max 2 weeks ago. Now its two inches low. But the kicker is their isn't any leakage. Is it the brake booster? The fluid is going somewhere just not on the ground. The brake lines are new all around. If you have any other questions in order to give me a prognosis please ask. Thanx in advanced
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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It's possible it could be leaking out the back of the M/C into the booster. Pull the vacuum connection out of the booster and see if there is any fluid there. Take a wire coat hanger or something similar and attach a piece if cloth or something absorbent to the end of it and snake it down to the bottom of the booster to see if any fluid is down there. Be gentle and don't have any sharp edges on the wire. Remember there is a rubber diaphragm inside the booster.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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You can actually unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and check there. No need to break any lines open. Its a better way then possibly breaker the booster IMHO.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Not uncommon for the MC to leak out the back and into the booster. It happened on my 83 F150. The brake fluid caused the booster to fail and produced a hissing sound from the vacuum leak. Replaced both the MC and the Booster.
regards
rikard
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rikard
Not uncommon for the MC to leak out the back and into the booster. It happened on my 83 F150. The brake fluid caused the booster to fail and produced a hissing sound from the vacuum leak. Replaced both the MC and the Booster.
regards
rikard
Something in that area whistles for a min after i kill the motor. That's probably it then.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Big-Green-1992
Something in that area whistles for a min after i kill the motor. That's probably it then.
Sounds like a bad booster or check valve then. That sound is prolly all your vacuum leaving the truck.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Nvm the M/S and brake booster is good to go. Bake fluid is leaking out the rear driver side Drum brake. Whats next?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Out of the drum? Must be a bad wheel cylinder then. Bout $12 at a parts store. a couple bolts to swap it out, then reassemble that brake setup and bleed the brakes. If you know how to do drum brakes then this is a 15 minute job.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._716230369____
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Thanx bud. So it's the 4 or 5 bolts on the inside of the cylinder? My terms may be off. I'm a fairly mechanical guy. I know i can stumble my way through it worst case.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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You have to pull the drum off and remove the springs/shoes. The wheel cylinder is held on by 2 bolts and the brake line itself threads into it. Remember you can always look at the other side to see how to reassemble the drum brakes if you forget.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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You are going to need new shoes after a leaking wheel cyl.. You will NEVER get the brake fluid out of the shoes. If you don't they will grab and give you all kinds of grief!!

Also do new shoes on both wheels. if not you will have uneven braking and again all kinds of grief...
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Anything else i should replace while i'm at it?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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I say if you're doing one cylinder to do both. Its only $10 IMHO I would prolly get new hardware too, most part stores have the whole she-bang for like $7 that gets you new springs. Make sure your self adjusters are in decent shape too.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Anytime that I have to work on drum brakes I also get the hardware kit which makes the job go much easier. Pay particular attention to the self adjusters and do one side at a time.
regards
rikard
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
I say if you're doing one cylinder to do both. Its only $10 IMHO I would prolly get new hardware too, most part stores have the whole she-bang for like $7 that gets you new springs. Make sure your self adjusters are in decent shape too.
Originally Posted by rikard
Anytime that I have to work on drum brakes I also get the hardware kit which makes the job go much easier. Pay particular attention to the self adjusters and do one side at a time.
regards
rikard
Darn good advice!!! Thanks for adding to my list guys...
 
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