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zf5 clutch

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #1  
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zf5 clutch

i think my clutch is starting to go out in my truck it doesnt engage unless my foot is completely to the floor and i mean petal on the ground and when the truck gets warm it has a hard time shifting (grinding noise) straight to second. ( i skip 1st starting out cuz i only get to about 10mph before i have to shift again making it almost worthless unless i got a load). i also have problems going into reverse when its warm sometimes (physically hard to pull back). i have a ZF S5-47 by the way its not a swap it came stock. am i on the right track or am i missing something? thanks... Chuck
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:14 PM
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Check the clutch master cly and slave cyl. It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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it grinds with the clutch pushed to the floor i dont even let off of it and it still grinds and it only does this when its warm it shifts perfect when its cold. ill check both tomarrow when i have light.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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on further investigation the grinding happens when ive been shifting alot like in stop and go traffic and will only grind when goin into 2nd from a stop and is hard to go into reverse it grinds while the clutch is still pushed to the floor not as i am releasing it and the peddle seems kind of soft like im not engadging the clutch till it hits the floor. i am not leaking any fluid and it is not low. can anyone help me out here? i dont want to tear it apart if i dont have to because im moving 700 miles in a couple of weeks and its getting trailered there and im going to rebuild the motor there so a clutch job will be alot easier with it all pulled out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Sound like your clutch hydraulic system is going AND your 2nd gear syncro is worn
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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It does sound kind of hydraulicy. The only time I have ever had a clutch disc wear out completey it would shift just fine , but , it wouldnt go anywhere. The hot and cold issue makes me think hydraulic as well. When its hot the oil is thinner so it will bypass worn out parts easier. When its cold it is thicker and will hold itself behind seals and plungers better.

If you ride around with your hand on the shifter it will wear out your synchros and shift forks. If you ride around with your foot barely on the clutch pedal it will wear your throw out bearing out. Clutch pedals are either all the way in or all the way out. Anything else is putting unecessary wear on your stuff. Shifters only need a hand on them when its time to shift gears. It isnt an arm rest.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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is there any way to test the hydraulics or is it replace it and see if that works? ive been driving this truck for a while and im pretty good at shifting. that being said all the other manuals ive driven have been cars without hydraulic clutches so i dont know much about how the system works or how to test it. i know most of what you said but i dont have much back ground on the truck its got 217k on the clock and i cant tell when anything has been replaced for all i know its the stock clutch and hydraulic setup.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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It sounds like the master cylinder on the firewall or the firewall itself flexing when you push the clutch. The hydraulic system works with a master cylinder that is pushes fluid to a slave cylinder that moves to disengage the clutch. Usually when the master cylinder goes bad the fluid leaks past the seals in the plunger going back in the reservoir. When the slave cylinder goes bad it normally leaks to the pavement.

If the firewall itself isn't moving when you push the clutch my guess is the master cylinder.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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Something else I forgot to mention. Check all your linkage from the clutch pedal to the master cyl. The bushing are prone to going to hell and limiting the actual tow of the clutch
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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ill check that today and see what i find if its the master do i have to replace the slave at the same time?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 96ford250
ill check that today and see what i find if its the master do i have to replace the slave at the same time?
No, but I would recommend it, and also buying a sealed unit from ford. I went thru 3 aftermarket slave/master cly in 3 days in my brothers f150. Nothing more aggravating than filling the master w fluid only to see it running out of the bell housing because the slave is leaking. Never even got to start the truck
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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do i have to go to the dealer to order one from ford or can i get it online? what do they cost from ford? i know that anything from the dealer is alot more expensive.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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I get good deals from my dealer. it costed me 150
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 06:38 AM
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thats not nearly as bad as i thought it was gunna be. do i have to drop the tranny to replace them? like i said im getting ready to move 700 miles in 3 weeks and when i get there im rebuild the motor and freshening up the tranny. so if i gotta drop the tranny ill just avoid driving the truck alot.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Not on the ZF5. They are an external slave. You really dont even need any tools to change the slave. It just clips on the ear of the case. They are a real PIA to bleed though. If Ford offers the sealed unit get it.
 
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